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Ralph H. Kellogg 




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MOUNT WASHINGTON 



IN WINTER 



OB 



THE EXPERIENCES OF A SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION 
UPON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN NEW 

ENGLAND — 1870-71 



* The Lord hath his way f n the whirlwind and In the Aorm, and the elonds are the 
dost of his feet," 

** There are two voices ; one is of ttie sea, oub of the mountains ; each a mighty 
voice " 



BOSTON 
CHICK AND ANDREWS 

21 Frankijn Sthekt 

1871 



AP3 






Bntered amxHrdiDg to Aet of Congress, in the year 1871, by 

CHICK & ANDREWS, 

in the Ofiloe of the librarian of Congress, at Washington 



RIYSRSIDB, CAMBRISGK: 

STXBKOVTPBD AND PRINTED BT 

H. 0. HOUOHTON AND OOMPANT. 




PEEFAOE. 



All who have been connected with the Moiint 
Washington {Expedition have contributed to the 
preparation of thia book. Tliey address these 
pages, as their Oilicial Report, to those friends who 
Inmished the means for establishing thb Arctic 
Observatory, whose names will be found in the 
Appendix. 

C. H. Hitchcock has prepared the first four 
chapters and Part IV. 

' J, H. Huntington has prepared Chapters V., 
VII., VIII., XI., XII., Part lU., the first and con- 
cluding portions of Chapter VI., and the first three 
pf^s of Chapter X. 

S. A. Nelson has prepared Chapters XIII. and 

xrv. 

A. F. Clough has prepared a part of Chapter 
IX. 

H, A. Kimball has prepared the "Ascent of 



IV 



PREFACE, 



November 80 *' in Chapter VI. and the balance of 
Chapter IX. 

Theodore Smith has prepared Chapter X. 

The mountain was visited in the winter and 
spring by Mr. L. L. Holden, of the " Boston Jour- 
nal," who has kindly contributed Chapter XV. 

Each author is responsible for the subject-matter 
of the chapters here credited to him ; as much so as 
if there were as many separate books as there are 
authors. 





CONTENTS. 

PART I. 
PRELIMINARY. 

CHAPTER L p^„ 

Eablt Histobt of the Expedition ] 

CHAPTER n. 
Physical Charaoteb of the White Mountaihb . 24 

CHAPTER III. 
ExPLOBATion of the Mountains 86 

CHAPTER IV. 
The Afpboaohes to Mount Washington . . « • 60 

CHAPTER V. 

MOOSILAUKS 87 

PART n. 

THE EXPEDITION AT WORK 

CHAPTER VI. 
The Ascent of Moxtnt Washington in Wintbb . . ^ 101 

CHAPTER Vn. 
A Look Kobthwabd and Eastwabd 118 



VI CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIU. 

PA«1 

A Look Southwabd asj> Westward 126 

CHAPTER IX. 
Photoobaphino 132 

CHAPTER X. 
Teleobaphiko 146 

CHAPTER XI. 
Life at the Summit 155 

CHAPTER XIL 

JoUBlfAL FBOM OCTOBER TO DeCEMBEB 163 

CHAPTER Xm. 

JOUBNAL CONTINUED 169 

CHAPTER XIV. 

JOUBNAL CONCLUDED 208 

CHAPTER XV. 
Mount Washington in Mat 251 

PART ra. 

METEOROLOGY. 
Intboduction .... k ..... 281 

CHAPTER XVL 
The Fbostwosk and Clouds 285 

CHAPTER XVn. 
The Wind . . . .293 

CHAPTER XVin. 
Stobms : . 301 



CHAPTER XIX. 

HETKOROLOaiClI. RSCOKD .... 



What mB Worvd baip off a 
Apfbkdix .... 





PART FIRST. 

PRELIMINAEY. 



EAKLV HISTOKY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

l^^^iARLY in the summer of 1858, a party of 
W^ragl geologists started in a skiff trom Burling- 
IB . '^^ ton, Vermont, and gradually made their 
way up Lake ChampUin to Whitehall, New York, 
stopping at every promontory and island to examine 
the strata.' The expedition was organized under 
the auspices of the Vermont Geological Snrvcy, of 
which the late President Edward Hitchcock, of 
Amherst, Massachusetts, was the responsible head. 
The leader of the party was 0. H. Hitchcock, one 
of the assistants. 

Two college students, who had just finished their 
course of study at Amherst, joined the party for 
the sake of learning something of practical geology. 
These were Gieorge S. Grosvenor and J. H. Hun- 



2 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

tington. The latter gentleman had visited the 
White Mountains in 1856 and 1857, and was very 
enthusiastic in his descriptions of the sights and ex- 
periences of that elevated region. The question was 
raised by Mr. Huntington, whether it would be pos- 
sible to spend a winter upon the summit of Mount 
Washington, and he expressed his willingness to 
make the experiment in company with a classmate, 
Mr. James Collins. He subsequently addressed a 
letter to Professor Joseph Henry, of the Smithsonian 
Institution at Washington, D. C, asking w^hether 
the Institution could not advance the funds neces- 
sary for the undertaking, as his friend and himself 
were willing to make the attempt to remain on the 
summit all winter. A very kind letter was received 
in reply, showing a high appreciation of the subject, 
but declining to undertake the enterprise at that 
time, on account of the many obstacles in the way. 
In a few weeks, C. H. Hitchcock visited the White 
Mountains for the first time. He found a report 
very common among the guides and frequenters of 
the hotels, that the Smithsonian Institution had 
offered a thousand dollars to any one who would 
spend a winter upon the summit for the purpose of 
taking meteorological observations. Others said 
that a firm in Boston had offered five thousand dol- 
lars for the same object, with the avowed purpose 
of publishing the journal of the observers' experi- 



TIP-TOP HOUSE APPLIED FOR, 8 

ences, expecting to be reimbursed for the large ex- 
penditure by the sale of the books. Knowing Mr. 
Huntington's wishes, Mr. Hitchcock addressed a 
letter to Professor Henry, stating the existence of 
the report mentioned above, and adding that two 
very capable young men were ready and anxious to 
undertake the enterprise. No answer was received, 
and the project shortly passed out of mind. Even 
to the present time, people at the mountains insist 
that somebody has offered a very large sum for the 
purpose now accomplished by the Mount Washing- 
ton Expedition. In our efforts to raise funds, every 
such report has been carefully scrutinized, but no 
one could be traced to any reliable source. When- 
ever we were referred to any individual, that per- 
son -we interrogated, but gained no additional infor- 
mation. The search seemed always like pursuing 
a phantom ; the moment it is touched it vanishes. 
It is natural to think of what winter life upon the 
mountains must be, and to perceive the necessity 
of an expensive outfit, in case any observers could 
be found willing to brave the frost and storms upon 
the summit ; hence the origin of the report, 

APPLICATION FOR THE TIP-TOP HOUSE. 

During the ensuing ten years, letters occasion- 
ally passed between Messrs. Hitchcock and Hun- 
tington. At length, the Legislature of New Hamp- 



4 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

shire, in the summer of 1868, authorized the estab- 
lishment of a Geological Survey, and Mr. Hitch- 
cock was appointed State Geologist. Then Mr. 
Huntington recalled the old conversations about the 
winter occupation of Mount Washington, and he 
applied for and received the appointment of As- 
sistant on the Geological Survey of the State. 

He commenced his work in New Hampshire in 
the spring of 1869, and labored chiefly in the wilds 
of the extreme northern part of the State. The sub- 
ject of elevated winter quarters was early broached, 
and no time was lost in making the preliminary in- 
quiries. In the month of July, the State Geologist 
went to Gorham to ask Colonel Hitchcock, of the 
Alpine House, and lessee of the Tip-top House, if 
he would allow his premises on the summit to be. oc- 
cupied for scientific purposes the next winter. The 
proposal not being favorably received, the matter 
was dropped for a few weeks. 

Negotiations were subsequently renewed by let- 
ter, but were not successful. These long cherished 
plans being thus frustrated, it became evident that 
the winter of 1869-70 would not be known in after 
years as the season in which daring adventurers 
braved the arctic climate of Mount Washington. 
But in this, as in so many other cases, a higher than 
human foresight was preparing the way for the 
desited adventure. 



A WINTER ON MOOSILAUKE. 6 

M008ILAUKE. 

Had the expedition been attempted in 1869, it 
might have been a failure for the want of an expe- 
rience of the peculiarities of mountain atmospheric 
phenomena. In a conversation with Mr. William 
Little, of Manchester, our disappointment was made 
known. Said he, *^ Why not spend the winter upon 
the top of Moosilauke? I own the house there, 
and the adjacent forests. You shall have the use 
of them without charge." 

The proposal being made to Mr. Huntington, 
he adopted it without a moment's hesitation, even 
though, in consequence of bad chirography, the 
word " Moosilauke " was mistaken for " Monad- 
nock." Moosilauke, in Benton, is nearly five thou- 
sand Teet high, and within the arctic zone of cli- 
mate. Supplies were carried to its summit, and 
Mr. Arthur C. Page, ^ recent graduate of the 
Chandler Department of- Dartmouth College, stood 
ready to accompany Mr. Huntington, and prepara- 
tions were made to commence arctic housekeeping 
the latter .part of December. But an advantageous 
situation in Georgia was offered to Mr. Page, and 
by his acceptance of it, the elevated position of ob- 
server on Moosilauke was left vacant. It was shortly 
after filled by Mr. A. F. Clough, of Warren, a great 
lover of Nature, and a photographer by profession. 



6 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

This expedition was carried out chiefly at the ex- 
pense of Mr. Huntington, and by the exertions of 
both. So vahiable were the experiences acquired, 
and so unusual were the meteorological phenomena 
experienced, that a full account of them is reserved 
for a subsequent chapter. In some respects, the 
Mount Washington phenomena have not equaled 
those upon Moosilauke. 

PREPARATION FOR THE NEXT WINTER. 

About two months were spent upon this summit, 
arid the possibility of living on a mountain top dur- 
ing the winter was fully demonstrated. These ob- 
servations were published in the newspapers, and 
excited great interest. We began quite early in 
1870 to contrive ways and means for our Mount 
Washington expedition. Of course, a house was 
the first essential. Renewed application for the 
Tip-top House was courteously but firmly met by 
refusal in a letter dated April 23, 1870. At one 
time, the question of building a small house was 
-discussed. From his elevated observatory on Moos- 
ilauke, Mr. Huntington, by letter of February 18, 
1870, proposed that negotiations be commenced with 
the Mount Washington Railway Company, for the 
use of the engine-house or depot they were intend- 
ing to build on the summit. 

After the adverse decision in regard to the Tip- 



ASKING FOR MEANS. 7 

top House, a letter was addressed to Mr. Sylvester 
Marsh, of Littleton, president of the Railway Com- 
pany,- inquiring whether the house might not be 
used in the winter by the meteorological party. In 
reply, it was stated that the completion of the house 
before winter was uncertain ; but a desire was ex- 
pressed that the project might be successful. Inter- 
views were had with Mr. Marsh, and he spoke even 
more favorably than we had been led to expect by 
his letter, but he added that he had not the author- 
ity to speak for the company. Having no reason 
to suppose the directors would not favor us, late in 
July the State Geologist issued a circular, stating 
the importance of establishing a meteorological ob- 
servatory upon Mount Washington in the winter, 
and asking the friends of scientific research and 
mountam exploration to contribute the sum of two 
thousand dollars to maintain the expedition, and fur- 
nish the means of telegraphic communication be- 
tween the observers and the public. The Geologi- 
cal Survey proposed to adopt the expedition as a 
part of its work, but not to furnish any funds in its 
behalf. The circular suggested that, with such a 
sum, the expedition could be made successful, and 
the public could daily learn the character of the 
arctic phenomena peculiar to the summit, and that 
without waiting months or years for the return of 
the party to civilized regions. It was promised that 



8 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

the fiinds subscribed should not be called for before 
October 1, nor then unless the whole amount had 
been subscribed, and every contributor of ten dol- 
lars and upwards was to receive a pamphlet describ- 
ing the history and results of the expedition. This 
circular was sent to friends, and small sums were 
received, but not to any promising extent. Both of 
us were so occupied with necessary field work that 
we had no time to beg for money. Circulars were 
posted at the principal hotels among the mountains, 
in full view of the guests, but they did not excite 
any special interest. Great hopes were entertained 
of obtaining assistance firom the American Associa- 
tion for the Advancement of Science at its meeting 
in Troy, about the middle of August. A paper 
was read at Troy by Mr. Huntington, descriptive 
of the previous winter's occupation of Moosilauke, 
and the views of frostwork and arctic scenery there 

• 

photographed were exhibited by means of a magne- 
sium light. The presentation of the subject excited 
some interest, but the association declined to aid 
the project, individually or collectively. 

THE SIGNAL SERVICE. 

It was now the first of September, and not a 
hundred dollars had been promised. Our next 
effort was in the direction of the Press. A promi- 
nent journal in New York was willing to give u» 



THE SIGNAL SERVICE, 9 

five hundred dollars for daily telegrams and occa- 
sional letters sent to them exclusively during the 
winter months. Although a telegraph line capable 
of use in the winter months, was beyond our ex- 
pected means, our faith in ultimate success was 
strengthened by this proposal. About this time 
our attention was called to the recent establishment 
of the Bureau of Telegrams and Rejforts for the 
Benefit of Commerce in connection with the War 
Department at Washington, Application was 
made to General A. B. Myer, the Chief Signal Of- 
ficer, for funds to aid us in carrying out our enter- 
prise, while allowing the weather office to share 
its benefits. The answer, dated September 14, 
stated that the Chief Signal Officer could " hardly 
appropriate money for the object named ; but it 
may* be in the power of this office, with the ap- 
proval of the Secretary of War, to detail an observer 
for the position you propose to occupy." 

In answer .to two additional communications from 
the State Geologist, dated September 21 and 22, 
the Chief Signal Officer states his willingness to 
provide an insulated telegraph wire to extend from 
the summit of Mount Washinorton to the railroad 
station at its base, but that he cannot sanction any 
special arrangement that has been made to furnish 
any one paper exclusively with the weather reports. 
He proposed himself to furnish weather reports 



10 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

from all the stations throughout the country to the 
principal newspapers, as well as to the Chambers of 
Commerce, and could not well omit any one. He 
also offered to provide the meteorological instru- 
ments required for the station. Thus the means 
were provided for sending daily telegrams, but it 
necessitated the annulling of the contract for send- 
ing the weather reports exclusively to the New 
York newspaper, and left us as poor as ever. 

In a letter of October 7, the Chief Signal 
Officer announces that he has sent to the State 
Geologist, three miles of insulated Kerite telegraph 
wire, two telegraph instruments, two sections and 
four conductors, to the value of ten hundred and 
thirty-two dollars ; arid that an instructed observer 
will probably be detailed to join the expedition. 
These telegraph supplies were duly received and 
immediately transported to the mountain. 

AN ABOKTIVE EFFORT. 

During the summer an effort had been made in 
still another direction, namely, application for aid 
to a scientific society in New York, known to be 
greatly interested in arctic researches. It was 
suggested to them, that for a comparatively small 
sum, which the officers of the society could easily 
raise by subscription, science would be greatly 
benefited, while the society itself would have the 



MR NELSON'S LABORS, 11 

credit arising from encouraging so daring an ad- 
venture. 

The proposal was not favorably received, — at 
least no reply was ever made to the communi- 
cation. 

MR. NELSON. 

From another quarter, however, there came the 
required assistance. In the month of July, Mr. 
Durgin of the Sinclair House in Bethlehem, in- 
formed Professor Hitchcock, that a relative of his 
by marriage, S. A. Nelson, of Georgetown, Massa- 
chusetts, was very much interested in the meteor- 
ology of Mount Washington, and would like to join 
our expedition. Mr. Nelson wrote by date of July 
28, presenting a request to be permitted to join 
the expedition, asking also for further information. 
It appeared that he had been led naturally to think 
of the great benefits to science that must accrue 
from the occupation of our highest mountain for 
meteorological purposes, and he had determined, if 
not able to go with some party, to attempt the en- 
terprise " alone in the face of all hardships and dan- 
gers." His letters had the ring of the true metal in 
them, and an interview for the exchange of views 
was requested. Circumstances prevented our meet- 
ing. By further correspondence, it appeared that Mr. 
Nelson was ready to devote himself to raising funds 
for the expedition, in case he could be one of the 



12 EARLY HliSTORY OF THE EXPEDITION 

party. A formal invitation was soon extended to 
Mr. Nelson, to cast in his lot with us. He ac- 
cepted, and immediately set himself to the task of 
soliciting subscriptions in eastern Massachusetts, 
pledging himself to procure at least five hundred 
dollars. His promise was more than realized, for 
his efforts brought in more than eight hundred dol- 
lars. His labors commenced early in September, 
and he did not go upon the mountain till late in 
December, remaining behind after the occupation 
of the summit to complete what he conceived to be 
his part of the work below. Were this the place, it 
would be very entertaining to present extracts from 
his journal in October and November, showing how 
curiously many of his applications for aid were re- 
ceived. Those who have been obliged to solicit 
contributions for worthy, yet poorly appreciated 
causes, can easily imagine his varied and amusing 
experiences. 

OVERCOMING DIFFICULTIES. 

It became evident that the public were slowly 
gaining confidence in the success of our enterprise, 
and therefore, we began to purchase our supplies. 
Mr. Huntington made out the list, that we might 
have the needful articles at the lower mountain de- 
pot, early in October, understanding that the trains 
could not transport freight for us before that time. 



DIFFICULTIES. 18 

On the 19th of September, word was sent to Pro- 
fessor Hitchcock at Bethlehem, that the mountain 
trains would stop running on the following day, as 
the track was to be taken up immediately for re- 
pairs, and that no orders had been given by the 
officers of the company, to affi^rd our expedition 
any facilities either of transportation or the use of 
the summit depot ; that this building had been left 
unfinished, there being only roof and sides without 
doors or windows ; that the cold weather having 
set in, it would soon be impossible to run the trains 
for want of water, etc. To add to these difficulties 
the supplies had not all been purchased ; it was un- 
certain whether sufficient funds could be obtained, 
and no arrangement had then been made for the 
use of a telegraph cable. Under these unpromising 
circumstances the party at Bethlehem, with the 
exeeption of the state geologist, came unanimously 
to the conclusion that the obstacles in the way 
were insui'moantable, and the expedition must be 
abandoned for the next winter. But he said the sup- 
plies should all go up the mountain,. even if he turned 
teamster himself, and with a single horse trans- 
ported them up the carriage road; Mr. Hunting- 
ton having expressed a willingness to remain upon 
the summit all winter even without telegraphic 
communication with the world below. The next 
day, therefore, one of the party went to the rail- 



14 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

m 

road station to say that orders were coming from 
head-quarters to grant the needed facilities, as 
they must have been delayed by some misunder- 
standing. Another went to Littleton to borrow a 
few tons of coal, so that the most essential article to 
comfort might be sure to reach the railroad in sea- 
son for transportation to the summit. Professor 
Hitchcock at the same time went to Boston, and 
obtained from the officers of the company the neces- 
sary permission to use their summit depot during 
the winter ; and immediately transmitted it to the 
employees. The railway company generously gave 
us the use of the depot, and transported our sup- 
plies over their line to the summit without charge, 
and regretted that they could not have known 
earlier of our purpose, so that the house might 
have been completed. Our thanks are specially 
due to the engineers, Mr. Charles Aiken and Mr. 
Kidder, for remaining on the mountain longer 
than was necessary for their own purposes, to ac- 
commodate us. 

Immediately after Professor Hitchcock's return, 
Mr. Huntington went to Boston, to purchase the 
necessary supplies in connection with Mr. Nelson, 
and to see that they were forwarded without delay. 
These necessaries were purchased on credit, and the 
amounts charged to Professor Hitchcock. They 
were immediately forwarded and transported to the 
summit. 



CARRYING UP SUPPLIES. 15 

UP THE CARRIAGE ROAD. 

In spite of all our eflPorts the telegraphic, appara- 
tus sent from Washington, and some other necessary 
articles, arrived too late for the last train, and these 
were taken around the mountain in a buggj, partly 
by Professor Hitchcock and partly by Mr. Hun- 
tington, and thence to the summit on the carriage 
road. The distance traversed by each was nearly 
eighty miles, over a very muddy and hilly route. 
The road up the mountain had been closed for the 
winter, and the fifty or sixty bridges upon it taken 
up, so that in addition to the labor of climbing, the 
planks must be relaid. Several days were spent 
upon the summit in preparing the building for oc- 
cupation — partitioning off a room, setting up the 
stoves, laying double-floors, etc; In this we were 
aided by a carpenter from* Berlin Falls. On the 
eighteenth of October Professor Hitchcock at- 
tempted to carry up the last supplies of beef and 
mutton, but at the Half-way House the wind was 
blowing at the rate of sixty or seventy miles per 
hour, and it was not prudent to venture further 
with a horse. The load was left at the ^urning 
point, and was subsequently carried to the summit 
by Mr. Huntington, who remained on the mountain 
till the rooms were completed for occupation, the 
Kerite wire laid, and everything was in readiness 



16 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION, 

for the incoming of the party. He came down Oc- 
tober 22. 

A NEW CIRCULAR. 

In the latter part of October Professor Hitchcock 
joined Mr. Nelson for a few days in the work of 
soliciting fiinds. A hew circular, adapted to the 
changed circumstances, was prepared, and was wide- 
ly distributed. In this it was briefly stated that the 
arrangements for the occupation of the mountain 
had been completed ; the observers, photographers 
and telegrapher selected ; the needful supplies pur- 
chased and transported to the summit; a Kerite 
telegraph wire had been laid over that portion of 
the route where a common wire could not with- 
stand the wintry blasts and accumulations of ice ; 
that the building had been secured and comfortably 
furnished, and furthermore that the party intended 
to establish themselves in their snug eyrie about 
the twelfth of November. 

Reference was made to the approval of the ex- 
pedition by the War Department, and to a special 
letter of recommendation signed by Professors B. 
Pierce, Joseph Winlock, Joseph Lovering, Asa 
Gray, Alpheus Hyatt, President Runkle, N. B. 
Shurtleff, and William Claflin. 

It was also thought that commerce would Hbe 
greatly benefited by our daily reports. As the 
farmer studies the cloud-caps upon high mountains 



RAISING FUNDS. 17 

to forecast the weather, so telegraphic reports of 
the condition of the atmosphere upon the highest 
summit in eastern America would enable ship- 
owners to judge of the approach of storms, and 
escape risk of loss to their vessels by keeping them 
in a harbor till the danger was past ; so too, with 
fair weather reported from the mountain, vessels 
could get a day's start of any bad spell of weather, 
and thus escape great peril. 

It was announced that these preparations had 
been made with the expectation that friends would 
contribute funds sufficient to meet the expenses. 
Should the public fail to appreciate the enterprise 
the burden would fall upon the State Geologist, 
who had already paid out seven hundred dollars 
more than the amount of the subscriptions. 

This appeal proved to be efficacious, as in conse- 
quence of this and other applications, enough funds 
were secured to pay all the bills of the expedition. 
It was hoped that there might be a small balance 
in our favor, so that the observers might preserve 
some reminder of their wild experiences ; but 
they are all well satisfied that the, expedition has 
been able to meet its obligations without protesta- 
tion. 

2 



18 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 
THE PHOTOGRAPHERS OF THE EXPEDITION. 

On the third of October a letter came from 
Howard A. Kimball, photographer, of Concord, 
N. H., asking to be permitted to join the mountain 
party and take views. Soine elegant stereographs, 
showing what proficiency he had made in his pro- 
fession, accompanied the letter. According to our . 
original plan the artist of the expedition was Mr. 
A. P. Clough of Warren, N. H., hence this ap- 
plication was referred to him. Mr. Clough w^as 
pleased with it." The two gentlemen concluded 
to combine their efforts or to form a partnership, 
and thus go upon the mountain in company. This 
necessitated their spending a shorter time there, on 
account of the limited stock of provisions sent up. 
Mr. Kimball aided in the work of raising funds, 
adding more than a hundred dollars to our list. 
Both the photographers made personal pecuniary 
sacrifices in order to render their branch of our 
expedition successful. They also endured great 
hardships upon the mountain, as will appear far- 
ther on. ThQy have succeeded finely in taking 
views, as shown in their published stereographs. 
They have kindly permitted us to copy such as we 
need for illustrating this volume, the report of our 
doings. 



OUR TELEGRAPHER. 19 

OUR TELEGKAFHEK. 

On the third of November the Chief Signal 
Officer informed us that he would send an in- 
structed operator and observer with a complete set 
of meteorological instruments to Mount W»hing- 
ton, and requested that one weather report Tnight 
be forwarded to him daily by telegraph. This re- 
port would be bulletined along with those from 
other stations, and a copy of it be furnished to 
the principal daily journals in the country. After 
some delay Sergeant Theodore Smith, U, S. A. 
started from Washington, and reached the moun- 
tain early in December. 

The following is an extract from the special order 
No. 95, brought from Washington : — 

WAR DEPARTMENT. 

Office of the Chief Signal Officer, 
Washington, D. C, Nooemher 28, 1870. 

^r ^r ^r ^r ^r ^P ^r 

Sergeant Theodore Smith, Observer, Signal Service, 
U. S. A., will proceed without delay to Mount Washing- 
ton, New Hampshire, and report for temporary duty to 
Professor C. H. Hitchcock, and carry out such orders as 
he has received personally from this office. 

The Quartermaster's Department will furnish the nec- 
essary transportation. 

By order of the Chief Signal Officer of the Army. 

Charles M. Ptne, 

Captain U. S. Army, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant- 
To Prof. C. H. Hitchcock, Moant Washington, New Hampshire 



20 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPBfDlTION. 

TELEGRAPHING FROM HANOVER. 

At the time appointed, November 12, Mr. Hun- 
tington promptly climbed the mountain and com- 
menced to take and record the meteorological ob- 
servations. The other members of the party were 
delayed by various reasons, partly because all the 
necessary arrangements had not been completed. 
One of the last arrangements perfected was the 
connection of the telegraph wire between Mount 
Washington and Hanover. In Northern New Eng- 
land, there are two telegraph lines running nearly 
parallel to each other. One starts from Groveton, 
New Hampshire, on the Grand Trunk Railway, and 
proceeds to Concord by way of Lancaster, Little- 
ton, Wells River, Vermont, and Plymouth. At 
Littleton there is a branch wire extending to the 
mountain. The other wire alluded to follows the 
Passumpsic Railroad from Lennoxville, P. Q., to 
White River Junction. These two wires enter the 
same building at Wells River. Mr. 0. W. Gates, 
the superintendent of these lines, kindly consented 
to arrange switches at Wells River and Littleton, 
so that Hanover and Mount Washington could very 
easily be connected in one continuous line ; and 
permission was given to Professor Hitchcock to use 
this line in the evening for an hour after the busi- 
ness of- the company had been attended to. A few 



TELEGRAPHING, 21 

yards of wire were added to the main line in Han- 
over, and thus there was direct communication from 
the summit to Professor Hitchcock's office in Cul- 
ver Hall, a large building in process of erection for 
the mutual benefit of the New Hampshire College 
of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts and Dart- 
mouth College, This was the only room in the 
building fitted JFor occupation, reached by struggling 
through piles of lumber, and balancing one's self 
upon a single plank placed over perilous depths. 
The apparatus used was one of the combination 
main line instruments belonging to the Signal Ser- 
vice, together with a register from the Shattuck Ob- 
servatory. Thus when the storms were raging, the 
snow flying, the mercury freezing in the thermom- 
eter, and transportation was impossible, there could 
be communication between the isolated adventurers 
and their fi'iends. The news from the mountain 
was exchanged for intelligence from the papers, 
almost as soon as they were received in Hanover. 

We cannot forbear alluding in this connection to 
the assistance rendered our cause by Mr. Field, tel- 
egraph operator and postmaster at Hanover. The 
evening messages to the mountain were not sent 
from Hanover by the regular employe of the tele- 
graph company, but by members of Dartmouth 
College who had learned to telegraph for their own 
pleasure, or by other persons interested in the ex- 



22 EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXPEDITION. 

m 

pedition. Among the latter number there was 
one, profoundly ignorant of the art of telegraphy, 
who had rashly promised Professor Hitchcock to 
send and receive messages for him every Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday evening throughout the 
stay of the scientific party upon Mount Washing- 
ton. 

To learn to write Morse's alphabet legibly was 
a comparatively easy task. Then commenced the 
stumbling through dark halls, over piles of shavings 
and timbers, and climbing of broken, rickety stairs, 
by the light of a dim lantern, the only luminary in 
Culver Hall, in order to reach " St O. ; " where, 
in an arctic atmosphere, corresponding as nearly as 
possible in temperature to that supposed to exist 
upon the summit at the same hour, the bewildered 
amateur undertook to learn how to " adjust," to 
" switch on," to " switch off," to " call M. W.," and 
Jill the other " ways that are dark " in this very 
mysterious art. At this juncture, Mr. Field came 
to our aid. He not only invited this telegrapher to 
send messages from the regular oflBce, but made 
every effort to render the assumed task an easy one, 
and that when his time was very fully occupied with 
his own duties. H6 read our messages for us. He 
adjusted the instrument, and explained the various 
puzzling mysteries of the art. He " switched on " 
and "switched oflF" and "called" when things 



MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION. 23 

were " contrairy." and made inquiries for us, and, 
in brief, did everything that he " might, could, 
would, or should have done " under the circum- 
stances, except to acknowledge the value of his 
time, or that the presence of comparative strangers 
evening after evening in his office was an incon- 
venience. The unskillful telegrapher whom he so 
kindly assisted, takes this opportunity to acknowl- 
edge both, and to thank him for the aid so cheer- 
ftdly given, 

MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION. 

The complete organizat|pn of the expedition is as 
follows : — 

C. H. Hitchcock, State Geologist, with office in 
Hanover, connected by telegraph with the summit 
of Mount Washington. 

J. H. Huntington, in charge of the Observa- 
tory upon the mountain. 

S. A. Nelson, Observer. 

A. F. Clough and H. A. Kimball, Photogra- 
phers. 

Theodore Smith, Observer and Telegrapher for 
the Signal Service. 



CHAPTER n. 

PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

^g^jE# N the mountainous region parallel to the 
I ^^ eastern coast of North America there are 
^^^^^ i two culminating points, if we view the 
masses in a general way, and overlook some of the 
valleys of denudation. Commencing with the Gulf 
of Mexico, the country rises gradually till the highest 
point is reached on Clingmaii's Peak, 6,707 feet, in 
western North Carolina. Then, in going north, 
there is a descending slope as far as the Hudson 
River, or to the level of the sea. From this valley 
northerly the country rises till Mount Washing- 
ton is reached, 6,293 feet, and there is a descent 
again to the Gulf of the St. Lawrence, To explain 
these alternating slopes we must call in the ele- 
vating agencies of past geological time. The re- 
searches of the New Hampshire Geological Survey 
indicate that the Mount Washington range was ele- 
vated by forces acting in different directions. Afler 
the first range with its Btratigraplncal curves had 
been formed, another force was exerted which dis- 



TOPOGRAPHY. 25 

torted the earlier folds, piling the strata higher, 
much like the waves of the ocean when disturbed 
by conflicting winds. 

The White Mountains are generally understood 
by geographers to include all the elevated region 
north of Winnipiseogee Lake in New Hampshire. 
Territorially these may be divided into several 
groups, as the Moosilauke range to the southwest, 
the Franconia region, the Pemigewasset Mountains, 
the Mount Washington group, etc. It is the latter 
portion that claims our attention at the present time. 
There is an area perhaps thirty miles long and ten 
miles wide bounded by Israel's and Moose rivers 
upon the north, Peabody and Ellis rivers on the 
east, the Saco River on the south and west, of which 
Mount Washington is the culminating point. Its 
latitude is 44° 16' 25'', its longitude 7V 16' 26" 
west from Greenwich, or 1° 0' 43.99" longitude 
east from Hanover. 

TOPOGRAPHY OF THE MAIN RANGE. 

This area shows a main range with several 
branches. Starting with Camel's Hump in Gor- 
ham, the land quickly rises to Mount Madison 
5,365 feet high. Pursuing a course west of south, 
we see in order Mount Adams, 5,794 feet ; Mount 
Jefferson, 5,714 feet ; Mount Clay, 5,553 feet ; 
Mount Washington, 6,293 feet; Mount Monroe, 



26 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

5,384 feet; Mount Franklin, 4,904 feet; Mount 
Pleasant, 4,764 feet; Mount Clinton, 4,320 feet; 
Mount Jackson, 4,100 feet, and Mount Webster, 
4,000 feet by estimate. The range is here crossed 
by the Saco River, and on the other side we hare 
Mount Willey, 4,300 feet, and a long range run- 
ning to Mount Carrigain. 

Of the spurs from the main range there is one at 
right angles to its axis on the west side, consist- 
ing of Mounts Marsh, Dartmouth, Deception, and 
Cherry Mountain, extending past the White Moun- 
tain House. On the opposite side a spur points down 
toward the Glen House, with steep valleys upon both 
sides, the Great Gulf to the north and Tuckerman's 
Ravine on the south. Looking from the summit of 
Mount Washington, one can make out the outlines 
of an elevated plateau, from Boott's spur past the 
summit to Adams and Madison. South from Mount 
Washington there are two main spurs or mountain 
ranges, branching from the elevated plateau. The 
first lies between Dry or Mount Washington River 
and the Rocky Branch, and we have, beginning at 
the lower end. Hart's Ledge, Mount Crawford, 
Mount Resolution, and the Giant's Stairs as parts 
of the range. Iron Mountain in Jackson is the 
most prominent peak of the other range between 
Rocky Branch and Ellis River. The two valleys 
of Dry River and Rocky Branch are deep and 
verv strongly marked. 



MAPS. 27 

MAPS OF THE VlTHlTB MOUNTAINS. 

In 1853 a most excellent map of the White 
Mountains was prepared by the late Professor G. 
P. Bond of Cambridge, Massachusetts. It was 
made from original triangulation, and has been the 
basis for everything that has subsequently appeared. 
In 1858* another map was published by Harvey 
Boardman of Griswold, Connecticut, on the scale 
of about two miles to the inch, somewhat larger 
than Bond's. Upon this the roads were laid down 
more accurately^ the boundaries of towns were rep- 
resented, and an attempt was made to show the 
mountain ridges and peaks by the lines known to 
engravers as hashers. It also contained views of 
the principal hotels.^ Since the organization of the 
Geological Survey of New Hampshire, we have at- 
tempted to secure a map more perfect than any now 
existing. Mr. George L. Vose of Paris, Maine, 
contributed for this purpose a large number of 
trigonometrical observations verifying those of Pro- 
fessor Bond, and added new ones in 1869. Surveys 
of the Fabyan Turnpike and the Mount Washing- 
ton Carriage Road were made for the Geological 
Survey by Walling and Gray in 1870, and the State 

1 The map by 0. H. V. Cavis, prepared for " Eastman*8 Guide," is 
upon the scale of five miles to the inch, and covers a wider range of 
country than either Bond's or Boardman's. 



28 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Geologist has spent much time among the moun- 
tains in quest of corrections and improvements. As 
the result of these labors a new map of the White 
Mountains has been compiled upon the scale of two 
and a half uliles to the inch, and it is believed to be , 
a great improvement over all existing delineations 
of this interesting region. The one in this volume 
is a new edition of the one in the " White Hills " 
by Starr King. 

THE MODEL. 

Several years since Rev. Dr. Thomas Hill, for- 
merly President of Harvard College, prepared an 
excellent model in plaster of the White Mountain 
region upon the basis of Bond's map. It was about 
eighteen inches square, and showed all the ridges 
and valleys between Gorham, Conway, and Little- 
ton. In 1870, Professor Hitchcock commenced the 
preparation of a model of the Mount Washington 
range and its branches upon the horizontal scale of 
139 rods to the inch, and the vertical one of three 
fourths of an inch to 1,000 feet. It is about five 
feet long and nearly three feet wide. Though 
mostly made without special measurements, it is 
thought to represent the contour of the mountains 
and valleys better than anything else in existence ; 
and therefore a sketch of it has been prepared for 
this report of our winter experiences. It gives a 



ALTITUDES. 29 

bird's-eye view of all the elevations and depressions 
of the most elevated regions, and, though imperfect 
— as ,anj model must be without an expense of 
$10,000 for accurate surveys, — it will give a very 
much better idea of the shapes of the several moun- 
tains than many pages of description. 

VARIOUS ALTITUDES. 

For the pleasure of many readers, a list of heights 
of many interesting points among the mountains 
is here presented. They have been taken mainly 
from Professor Arnold Guyot's memoir on the 
"Appalachian Mountain System." The altitudes 
are above mean tide water. 

Feet. 
Gorham Bailroad Station 802. 

Glen^ouse 1,632. 

Peabodj Riyer, opposite Glen Hoase . . . 1,543. 
Summit of ridge between Peabodj and Ellis RiyerSi in 

road near Glen Ellis Falls 2,018. 

Hotel at Jackson 771. 

Boad at junction of Saco and Ellis Rivers . . . 576. 
MountcUns east of Peabody Biver: — 

Wildcat Mountain 4,350. 

Soath peak of Mount Carter . . . . . 4,830. 
North peak of Mount Carter, or Imp Mountain . . 4,702. 

Mount Moriah 4,653. 

On the main range : — 

Halfway House on Carriage Boad, east side of Mount 

Washington 3,840. 

Limit of trees, north side of Mount Washington . 4,150. 
Boad between Mount Madison and Camel's Hump . 1,790. 



30 CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Peet. 
Lowest ridge between Moose and Israel's Biyers . 1>473. 

Gap between Mounts Madison and Adams . . .4,912. 

Gap between Mounts Adams and Jefferson . . 4,939. 

Gap "between Mounts Jefferson and Claj . . . 4,979. 

Gap between Mounts Clay and Wasbington . . 5,417. 

Grap between Mounts Wasbington and Monroe . . 5,100. 

Lake of the Clouds 5,100. 

Little Monroe, south of Mount Monroe . . . 5,204. 

Gap between Mounts Franklin and Pleasant . . 4,400. 

Gap between Mounts Pleasant and Clinton . . . 4,050. 

Other localities : — 

Cherry Mountain, approximately .... 3,670. 

Cherry Mountain road at summit .... 2,192. 

Mount Deception 2,449. 

White Mountain House 1,551. 

Gate of Fabyan Turnpike 1,583. 

Twin River on Fabyan Turnpike, about . . . 2,083. 

Marshfield, about 2,615. 

Crawford House . . 1,920. 

Gate of the Notch 1,904. 

Willey House 1,335. 

Mount Crawford House (Dr. Bemis) < . • . 986. 

Mouth of Sawyer's River 880. 

Upper Bartlett P. 664. 

South Conway P. 450. 

North Conway, estimated 492. 

Mount Crawford 3,134. 

Mount Resolution 3,400. 

Giant's Stairs 3,500. 

Mount Willard, about 2,570. 

Bethlehem Village 1,450. 

Bridge over Ammonoosuc (Bethlehem) . . . 1,221. 

Profile House, Franconia . . . ... . 1,974. 

Carroll House 1,428. 



HEIGHT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. 81 
HEIGHT OF MOimT WASHINGTON. 

There have been a great many measurements 
of the altitude of Mount Washington. Rev. Dr. 
Cutler estimated it from his first measurement in 
1784, at 10,000 feet, with the presumption that the 
figures were too small. His second observations, in 
1804, were placed in the hands of Dr. N. Bow- 
ditch, who made out the altitude from them to be 
7,055 feet. In 1814 Dr. Bigelow calculated it to 
be 6,225 feet. Captain Partridge's observations in 
1821, gave 6,234 feet. He gave also the heights 
of the adjacent peaks : Adams, 5,828 ; Jefierson, 
5,058 ; Madison, 4,866 ; Monroe, 4,856 ; Frank- 
lin, 4,711. The observations of Dr. C. T. Jack- 
son, in 1840, were quite accurate for the difierence 
in height between Mount Washington and the 
Notch. Correcting the error for the height of the 
Notch, his figures would stand 6,303, instead of 
6,228, only ten feet in excess of the correct height. 
Prof. Arnold Guyot, in 1851, from barometrical ob- 
servations, gives the figures of 6,291 feet. In his 
memoir on the "Appalachian Mountain System," 
published in 1861, he has altered these figures to 
6,288. In 1853, Capt. T. J. Cram leveled to tile 
summit under the direction of the United States 
Coast Survey, and reported the height to be 6,298 
feet. There have been other measurements, but 



82 * CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

the last seems to be the most reUable ; and we may 
assume it to be correct until it is proved to be erro- 
neous. 

THE ARCTIC CLIMATE. 

Observation shows that the climate of any coun- 
try becomes colder in proportion to the height of 
the land above the sea. Thus in tropical regions 
there may be an arctic climate at an altitude of 
12,000 or 15,000 feet. Using the formulas given 
by the best authorities, the climate of Mount Wash- 
ington corresponds with that of the middle of 
Greenland, about seventy degrees of north latitude, 
or twenty-six degrees further north than New 
Hampshire. The summit is thus shown to be in 
the arctic zone, and the animal and vegetable life 
corresponds with that of Labrador and Greenland. 
The physical character of the mountain, then, shows 
why it is so interesting a place for a meteorological 
observatory at all seasons of the year, particularly 
in the winter. It is an arctic island in the temper- 
ate zone, and on account of its great elevation it 
exhibits also the condition of the atmosphere where 
the mercury does not rise above twenty-four inches 
in the barometer. For peculiar interest, therefore, 
the Mount Washington station is not exceeded by 
any point within the arctic circle. 



BOTANY. 88 

BOTANICAL EXPLORATIONS. 

The plants of the Alpine regions of the White 
Mountains are of great interest. Dr. Cutler in 
1784 is the first author to speak of their a^ange- 
ment into zones. Dr. Bigelow in 1816 determined 
most of the phenogamous plants, while stating many 
interestingr facts concerninor the fauna and minerals. 
Other explorers were Benjamin D. Greene and 
Henry Little, in 1823. In 1825 William Oakes 
and Dr. Charles Pickering made very extensive 
researches among the plants, adding several species 
never found before. The former continued his ex- 
plorations the year following and afterward. In 
1829 Dr. J. W. Robbins explored the entire range, 
descending into the Great Gulf and visiting the 
eastern summits for the first time. Mr. Nuttall 
before this time, detected several species of great 
rarity, some of which have hardly been seen since. 
Mr. Oakes continued his botanical researches for 
many years, and intended to publish a full account 
of them. 

The most painstaking botanist among the moun- 
tains has been Professor Edward Tuckerman of 
Amherst, Mass. He first visited the mountains in 
1837, and has since that period been among them 
almost as many times as there have been summers. 

He has devoted special attention to the lichens of 

3 



84~ CHARACTER OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

this region, or those plants which predominate in 
the alpine district. In his admirable treatise upon 
the " Vegetation of the White Mountains," he 
marks out four regions : First, the lower forest^ in 
which are found the hard wood species of trees, 
the rock maple, the beech, the white and yellow 
birches. With these are often large -white pines, 
firs, white spruces, the aspen, the witch hazel, and 
the mountain ash. Secondly, the upper forest 
consists mostly of black spruce and fir, with occa- 
sional yellow and canoe birches, Frazer's balsam 
fir, and a mountain ash. At four thousand feet 
of altitude these trees ^re dwarfed, but are very 
strong, and when close together form a thicket 
almost impenetrable. Among the plants of the 
third, or sub-Alpine region^ are the mountain sand- 
wort, the evergreen cowberry, the Labrador tea, and 
the mountain bilberry. This seems not to be well 
characterized. The fourth and highest region is 
called Alpine^ and contains many plants peculiar to 
Labrador and Greenland. There are some* fifty or 
sixty of these, and among them are as many more 
lowland species which have emigrated to the sum- 
niit and manage to live there in favorable seasons, 
though often much dwarfed. The lichens are very 
conspicuous and beautiful. One, of a sulphur yellow 
color, is quite noticeable, and is a good indication 
of the visitor's arrival in the Alpine district. An- 



ARCTIC PLANTS. 



86 



other is the reindeer moss, a very common article 
of &od for the most asefol animal to man in L&p- 
land. The best localities of these arctic plants are 
in the great gul& or ravines cpon the east side of 
Mount Washington. 





CHAPTER in. 




EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

N his chapter upon the " History of the Ex- 
ploration of the White Hills," published in 
1869, Professor Tuckerman has given us 
an admirable essay eliminating the nan^^es of the ear- 
lier explorers, and their labors, from conflicting and 
often imperfect statements. It would appear that 
Darby Field of Pascataquack, an Irishman, was the 
first to ascend Mount Washington, accompanied by 
two Indians. This was in June 1642. The route 
lay from the Saco up Ellis River nearly to its 
source, thence up the projection known as Boott's 
Spur, between Tuckerman's Ravine and Oakes' 
Gulf. The summit of this spur is near " Bigelow's 
Lawn," upon the comparatively level tract at the 
southern base of Washington. 

Some authors have given Walter and Robert 
Neal the credit of first climbing the highest sum- 
mit in 1631. This statement was made by Dr. 
Belknap in the earlier editions of his " History of 
New Hampshire ; " but in his edition of 1812 he 



INDIAN TRADITIONS, 87 

states that he was in error. Field reported the ex- 
istence of precious stones, and of " Muscovy glass " 
or mica. These reports induced him to return a 
month later, accompanied by others, particularly 
by Thomas Gorges and Mr. Vines, two magistrates 
of the province of Sir Fernando Gorges. Except 
the story of plates of mica forty feet long (!), the 
account of Field is reliable, and the appearance of 
the upper mountainous region was very much the 
same two hundred years since, as it is now. John 
Josselyn made the ascent probably about 1668 ; 
and has preserved the traditions of the Indians 
respecting the early history of the mountains. 
They seemed to have believed that all the human 
race were destroyed by a flood save a single pair, 
who escaped to the mountain top and got beyond 
the reach of the water. Other traditions repre- 
sented that the highest summit was the residence 
of the Great Spirit, who with a motion of the hand 
could raise a storm and destroy the daring adven- 
turer who should irreverently enter his abode. 
Hence no Indian dared approach the summit. 
Their names for the mountains were Agiochook in 
one dialect, and in -another Waumbek^Methna^ sig- 
nifying Mountains with snowy foreheads. 

Of later visits we have notices of " ranging " 
companies who climbed the northwest part of the 
mountains in April 29, 1728, and on a warm day in 



88 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS, 

March, 1746. In July, 1784 the summit was 
reached by a party of scientific inquirers, consisting 
of Rev. Manasseh Cutler of Ipswich, Massachusetts, 
Rev. Daniel Little, of Kennebunk, Maine, and Col- 
onel John Whipple, of Dartmouth (now Jefferson), 
then the most prominent inhabitant of Coos County. 
They attempted to measure the height from baro- 
metrical observations, but unhappily were unable to 
confirm their computations by a trigonometrical 
measurement from the plain below. They made 
out three zones of vegetation — " first, the woods ; 
second, the bald mossy part ; third, the part above 
vegetation.'* The small firs in the second zone, 
they thought, may have been " growing ever since 
the creation," although not more than three or four 
inches high. They ascended by one of the upper 
tributaries of the Ellis River, since called Cutler's 
River, though the name has become nearly obsolete. 
In July, 1804, Dr. Cutler climbed the mountains 
again, in company with Dr. W. D. Peck, and ob- 
tained better barometrical observations, as well as a 
collection of the peculiar Alpine plants. 

It is impossible to ascertain with certainty who 
first proposed to call the highest of these summits 
Mount Washington. Dr. Belknap in his " History 
of New Hampshire," published in 1792, says of it, "it 
has lately been distinguished by the name of Mount 
Washington." He quotes from the manuscript of 



ASCENT ON HORSEBACK. ' 89 

Dr. Cutler in another place, the account of the 
zones of vegetation, where mention is made of 
** Mount Washington," as if it were well known. 
As this visit was made in 1784, it is not unlikely 
that the name was proposed soon after the close of 
the Revolutionary War, probably by Dr. Cutler's 
party, of which Drs. Belknap and Fisher were par- 
ties, though not to the summit. This is Professor 
Tuckerman's view. 

With the beginning of the present century visit- 
ors to the White Mountains increased in number. 
In 1819 the number averaged ten or twelve annu- 
ally, and the pioneer settlers began to provide 
means for their accommodation. In 1821 the first 
ladies climbed the summit. These were three in 
number, sisters, — the Misses Austin of Portsmouth, 
New Hampshire. With a firm determination to 
obtain a fine prospect, they remained four days near 
the top in a small stone cabin, until the weather be- 
came propitious. In 1840 the first ascent on horse- 
back was made by Abel Crawford, seventy-five years 
old. Ethan Allen Crawford, and Dr. C. T. Jack- 
son, State Geologist, were also of the party. With 
additional facilities the number of visitors increased, 
so that in 1858 it was estimated that five thousand 
persons* annually ascend the various bridle paths. 
In 1870 the number was estimated at seven thou- 
sand.' Of these five thousand registered their names 



40 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

at the Tip-top House, and about the same number 
came up the railroad. 

The discovery of the "Notch," by Timothy 
Nash in 1771, led to the construction of a more con- 
venient road than had before existed between the 
sea-coast and the extreme northern part of the 
State. Extensive travelling led to settlement along 
the route. Of the pioneers, we find first, Abel Craw- 
ford and Eleazer Rosebrook. They lived at the 
base of the " Giant's Grave." Rosebrook brought 
his family to a log hut at this locality in 1792. In 
1803 he built the first public-house about the 
mountains. The " Willey House," was built in 
1793. Abel Crawford married the daughter of 
Captain Rosebrook and built the house at the foot 
of Mount Crawford in Hart's location, about thir- 
teen miles distant from the " Giant's Grave." 

Ethan Allen Crawford succeeded Captain Rose- 
brook, and became one of the most noted guides to 
the summit. He was a giant, being nearly seven 
feet in height and a prodigy of strength. Many 
traditions are still current of his skill and strength, 
both as guide and hunter. The " Notch House " 
was built for a brother, Thomas J. Crawford, at the 
foot of the " Elephant's Head," just at the upper 
entrance to the "Notch." For many years the 
Mount Crawford House was kept open for the ben- 
efit of summer visitors by Mr. Davis, a son-in-law 



LEVELING FOR ALTITUDES, 41 

of Abel Crawford ; but in later years it passed into 
the hands of Dr. S. A. Bemis, who is now the 
Nestor of the mountains. 

In consequence of the discrepancies between the 
early measurements of the height of Mount Wash- 
ington, a party of engineers and others from Lan- 
caster visited the whole range between the Notch 
and Mount Madison in July, 1820, and on a second 
visit measured their altitudes with a spirit level. 
The first party consisted of Adino N. Brackett, 
John W. Weeks, General John Wilson, Charles 
J. Stuart, Noyes S. Dennison, and Samuel A. Pear- 
son of Lancaster, with PhiKp Carrigain and E. A. 
Crawford. Crawford was their pilot and baggage- 
carrier. They gave names to Mounts Pleasant, 
Franklin, Monroe, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison, 
and called the Lake of the Clouds " Blue Pond." 
This was probably the first party who ever spent 
the night upon the summit of Mount Washington. 

\xi August, Weeks, Stuart, and Brackett, ac- 
companied by Richard Eastman, spent seven days 
in leveling to the tops of all these mountains from 
Lancaster. For five of these days they were at- 
tended by Amos Legro, Joseph W. Brackett, and 
Edward B. Moore. 

Of the prominent peaks. Mount Clinton received 
its name from some undiscoverable source, certainly 
before 1837. Abel Crawford called it Bald Hill. 



42 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

Mounts Clay and Jackson were named by Mr. 
Oakes. This gentleman was with Professor Tuck- 
erman, and sent up his guide Amasa Allen to build 
a fire on the top of the south spur of Clinton, and 
thus with a fiery baptism the mountain was chris- 
tened Jackson. Mount Willard was named from 
Mr. Sidney Willard of Boston ; and it is probable 
that the name of Mount Webster was proposed by 
Mr. Willard for the peak known to earlier visitors 
as Notch Mountain. Lower down the Saco, Mounts 
Crawford and Resolution, as well as the Giant's 
Stairs, received names from Dr. S. A. Bemis. The 
names of Tuckerman's Ravine, Oakes's Gulf, and 
Bigelow's Lawn, were given in honor of three emi- 
nent botanists who had particularly distinguished 
themselves in the study of the White Mountain 
flora, to three fine localities of plants as well as 
marked topographical features. It is difficult to 
ascertain the origin of many of the names of natu- 
ral objects about the mountains. Dr. Bemis has 
perhaps applied more appellations than any other 
person to these features. He has been acquainted 
with all the pioneers, and has for many years re- 
sided in Hart's Location. Other names have been 
given by chance visitors, and preserved by usage 
among guides. 



^ THE STONE CABIN. 48 

HOUSES ON THE SUMMIT. 

Soon after the completion of a rude bridle-path 
in 1819 by Ethan Crawford, it was perceived that 
a house of some sort was needed upon the summit, 
where visitors could spend the night. Hence 
Mr. Crawford constructed a stone cabin near the 
top of Mount Washington, by the side of a spring. 
In this was spread an abundance of soft moss for 
beds, and thus travellers could be enabled to view 
the setting and rising of the sun. After awhile a 
small stove was brought up, with an iron chest and 
a long roll of sheet lead. The chest was the 
receptacle for the camping blankets, — be%r and 
hedgehog-proof, — and the lead was the register 
for visitors. Every winter this house was seriously 
damaged. The roof would be blown away, and the 
stones fall down from the walls, the chest and stove 
remaining^sadly rusted. Finally at the great storm 
of August 27, 1826, when the Willey family were 
destroyed by an avalanche, this cabin, with the iron 
chest and the blankets, were also swept down the 
steep slope and lost. A party had taken possession of 
the building for the night, but were terrified by the 
violence of the storm, and had hastened down the 
mountain just in time to save their lives. 

In 1862, J. S. Hall and L. M. Rosebrook built 
the Summit House on the very top of the moun- 



44 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS, 

• 

tain. It is twenty-four by sixty-four feet, quite 
low, with very thick walls of stone firmly cemented 
together, and bolted down to the solid rock. Over 
the roof are four strong cables. This house has 
now stood for nearly twenty years. 

A year later the Tip-top House was built by 
Samuel F. Spaulding & Co. It is twenty-eight by 
eighty -four feet, and was built in the same substan- 
tial manner as the other. It had originally a deck 
roof, upon which visitors could stand and secure 
better views than from the ground. As shown in 
one of our views the roof is now sharp pointed, and 
it is not easy for most persons to climb to the ridge- 
pole and remain there in comfort long enough to 
enjoy the scenery. In the rear of the main rooms 
of these houses are small sleeping apartments, best 
compared with the state-rooms of a steamer in re- 
spect to size, and furnished with very comfortable 
beds. The ceiling is made of cotton cloth, and the 
walls covered with boards and then papered. The 
windows are in deep recesses on account of the great 
thickness of the walls. 

These two houses were originally under diflFerent 
management. For the past twelve years they have 
been leased by the proprietor of the Alpine House 
in Gorham, and many thousand people have been 
entertained in them. It is probable that much 
more commodious quarters will soon be prepared foi 



PUBLIC HOUSES, 45 

visitors. The depot is the latest building that has 
been erected upon the summit. This is shown in 
one of our figures in its wintry aspect. 

There has been a controversy concerning the 
ownership of the land upon the summit of Mount 
Washington. In the early legislation of. New 
Hampshire respecting the unoccupied lands of the 
State, little attention was paid to exact boundaries ; 
consequently each of the two parties claiming the 
summit, bus reason to believe it to be included 
within their limits. Mr. Bellows, of Exeter,, owns 
the land upon the east side, and was the party in 
possession till about fifteen years ago, when his 
tenants were ejected by the sheriff acting for 
Coe & Pingry, of Bangor, Maine, and Salem, 
Massachusetts. Probably $25,000 have been spent 
already in contesting the matter of ownership be- 
fore the courts. 

HOUSES AT THE BASE OF THE MOUNTAIN. 

The first good public house for summer visitors 
was built on the Giant's Grave, and came into the 
hands of Mr. Fabyan. This was destroyed by fire 
about twenty years since, and has never been re- 
built. The White Mountain House was built by 
Mr. Rosebrook, a descendant of the pioneer of that 
name, about thirty years since. The Notch House, 
kept by T. J. Crawford, is no longer in existence. 



46 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS, 

but its place has been more than made good by the 
large and well kept establishment, a quarter of a 
mile further north, known as the Crawford House. 
Upon the east side, is the Glen House, at the lower 
end of the Carriage Road, kept by J, M. Thomp- 
son till his sudden death in 1869, and offered for 
sale in 1871 by his heirs. This is the largest house 
near Mount Washington, and can easily accommo- 
date five hundred guests at one time. 

CASUALTIES UPON THE MOUNTAIN. 

Several persons have lost their lives upon Mount 
Washington, generally in consequence of neglecting 
the advice of guides. The first was an English 
baronet, named Strickland. He went up from the 
Notch late in October, 1851. Disregarding the ad- 
vice of his guide, he pushed on to the summit. He 
seems to have fallen down precipitous places sev- 
eral times, and finally to have perished from ex- 
haustion, probably in less than twelve hours after 
he started. 

On the 24th of September, 1856, Miss Lizzie 
Bourne of Kennebunk, Maine, perished within 
thirty rods of the summit. With an uncle and 
cousin she climbed the mountain on foot ; but after 
reaching the Half-way House, the clear sky dis- 
appeared ; they became enveloped in a thick cloud, 
and strong winds met them in front. Not knowing 



CASUALTIES. 47 

their nearness to the summit, they were compelled 
to shelter themselves behind a few rough stones, 
(md Miss Bourne was not strong enough to sur- 
vive the shock. » 

August 7, 1866, Benjamin Chandler of Wil- 
nington, Delaware, started from the Glen House 
lor the summit late in the afternoon. It was rainy, 
windy, and very cold. He was about seventy-five 
years of age. He seems to have wandered from 
the path, but no one knows how long he survived. 
His remains were not found for more than a year, 
when they were accidentally discovered about half 
a mile east of the summit. 

DR. ball's experience. 

A severer exposure was that of Dr. B. L. Ball, 
of Boston, the last of October, 1855. This gentle- 
man walked from the Glen House to the Half-way 
House, while workmen were engaged in building 
the Carriage Road. The mountain was covered 
with clouds, and after climbing some distance above 
the " Ledge " he returned to the camp and spent 
the night with the laborers. The next morning the 
•louds seemed about breaking, and he started with 
the intention of reaching the summit if possible. 
The rain was changed to sleet and snow, and the 
temperature fell very much. Though very un- 
comfortable. Dr. Ball believed himself to be near 



48 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

the summit, and struggled on, understanding that 
he could find provisions and shelter in one of the 
houses there. His description of the storm is well 
appreciated by 4)ur party : — 

" I could not have beUeved that the storm could 
be more violent than it had been. Yet here it was 
more furious than ever. It now had the full sweep 
of the mountain top, the highest point of the whole 
group, of the loftiest mountain for hundreds of 
miles around. If ten hurricanes had been in 
deadly strife, with each other, it could have been 
no worse. The winds, as if locked in mortal 
embrace, tore along, twisting and whirling, and 
mingling* their roaring with the flinty rattling of the 
snow grains in one confused din." 

It is not clear that Dr. Ball reached the .summit. 
Yet persons sometimes reach the summit without 
knowing it. An incident of this sort is related 
by Mr. Noyes, of Boston. One cloudy morning 
he was standing in the door of the Summit House, 
when he thought he heard the footsteps of some 
one approaching. He listened, and soon discerned 
in the fog, the form of a man. He watched him, 
and saw him pass the house. Thinking the man 
might be bewildered, Mr. Noyes followed him, and 
on coming up inquired : " Which way are you go- 
mg, su* r 

" Going ? I am going to the Summit House, if 
I can find it." 



DR. BALL'S EXPERIENCE, 49 

" How far do you expect to travel, to reach it? " 
inquired Mr. Noyes. 

" Well, I don't know. I have been tugging on 
for the last hour, expecting to find- it. They told 
me it was only a few miles along; and I should 
think I had already been travelling fifteen ! " 

" But the course you are on now," said Mr. 
Noyes, " will take you over the other side to the 
Crawford House. You have klready passed the 
Summit House." And the man was led back, as- 
tonished to find he had passed one house ten rods 
from the path, and the other but six. 

Dr. Ball lost his way, and when night came on 
he crawled behind some stunted bashes, and with 
an umbrella contrived to shelter himself a little from 
the wind. All the next day he wandered about in 
the snow unable to find the way down, and the 
second night w^as spent in the same place. The 
following day he was found by a party of men very 
weak but in good spirits. He had been for sixty 
hours exposed to the severe winter weather of the 
mountain, and had had no sleep for eighty, yet he 
managed to keep himself alive without food or 
water. His health was somewhat injured by this 
exposure, but there is no case on record in the an- 
nals of Mount .Washington experience, w^here any 
person has survived such a terrible exposure as Dr. 
B. L. Bali. 



50 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 



MOUNT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY. 

In 1864, Timothy Eaton of Jefferson, erected 
upon the summit a sort of tower about forty feel 
high, which was called an observatory. It was s<^ 
arranged that with a rope and gearing, a party of 
eight persons could be elevated to its summit, and 
have a much better view than from the top of the 
mountain. This tower was very much like the 
derricks used in boring wells for petroleum in Penn- 
sylvania. It cost about six hundred dollars. It 
did not prove to be a profitable investment, and 
was soon abandoned, not a trace of it remaining in 
three years after its erection. 

EARLIER WINTER VISITS TO THE SUMMIT, 

Fear of accident has prevented most people fi*om 
attempting to climb Mount Washington in the 
winter. In the month of November, 1856, a month 
after Dr. Ball's experience, another party succeeded 
in reaching the top in safety, and in enjoying a good 
view. One of the most hardy men in the party 
that rescued Dr. Ball, said that with a friend he at- 
tempted to make the ascent in February ; but when 
they arrived within a mile of the summit they were 
obliged to turn back almost fi-ozen. • 

Two successftil attempts to reach the summit in 
winter previous to 1870 are on record. The first 



WINTER VISITS. 61 

was made by Mr. Osgood of Lancaster, December 
7, 1858, with a small party of friends. He was an 
oflScer of the- law, and went up to serve a legal 
process upon the property there. His ascent was 
thus described in the " Ooos Republican : " i 

" Arrived at the summit, the view is represented 
as having been sublime beyond the power of descrip- 
tion, Mr. Osgood averring that in his many trips on 
the mountain he never beheld so extended and yet 
grand and terrific a view as burst upon them on 
that lonely height. Measures were immediately 
taken to enter tlie houses, which, as they were 
covered with snow, was a labor of time. Unable 
to obtain ingress at the doors, they forced their way 
in through the windows, on which the frost had 
formed a foot and a half in thickness. The walls 
and all the furniture were draped with some four 
inches of frost, and the air was biting in the ex- 
treme. It was like a tomb, and^ lamp was neces- 
sary in this snow cavern, to enable the party to 
distinguish the surrounding objects. As delay was 
dangerous in the extreme, and having perfected 
their legal duty, the two prepared to return. Upon 
emerging from the houses they beheld to the south- 
west a cloud, rapidly increasing in volume, and roll- 
ing on toward them. When first seen it was small 
in magnitude, but it increased in size with alarm- 
ing velocity, soon spreading over the entire south. 



62 EXPLOBATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

They knew it was a frost cloud, and that to be 
caught in its folds would probably be fatal, and they 
hastened to avoid it. They had just entered the 
woods, at the base of the ledge, when it came upon 
them. So icy and penetrating was its breath, that 
to have encountered its blinding, freezing power on 
the unprotected height, would have been to have 
perished with it as a pall to cover them. The party 
reached the glen in safety, and were heartily wel- 
comed by their friends, who, well knowing the 
danger attending this never before accomplished 
feat, awaited them with much anxiety," 

The other ascent was made by a party from Lan- 
caster, February 11, 1862. A record of their visit 
is preserved in a stereograph, both on a card and as 
a transparency, sold about the mountains. The view 
is of the interior of the Summit House, showing a 
small pile of snow upon a bedstead and other ob- 
jects that hai drifted in through a crack in the 
building. The follow;ing account of this visit was 
written by J. H. Spaulding, a member of the 
. party : — 

"ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON IN FEBRUARY. 

" Early in the morning of February 10, 1862, 
F. White, C. C. Brooks, and J. H. Spaulding, all 
of Lancaster, N. H., started from that place for 
the top of Mount Washington. At eight o'clock 



ASCENT IN FEBRUARY. 68 

the same evening we started up the Mountaui from 
the Glen House. 

" The moon was shining brightly, as with ample 
packs and provisions we slowly walked up the car- 
riage road on snow-shoes. The night was still, 
and highly excited as we were by the thoughts of 
the adventure before us, the spring of our shoes on 
the glittering crust seemed music to us, while the 
tree-shadows thrown across our path, and the white 
winding road contrasting with the evergreen thick- 
ets, combined to make our night walk quite varied 
in incidents; and it was past midnight when we 
arrived at ' The Ledge.' The great bam built 
there last season, we found in ruins, and this, with 
the fire-scathed trees, boldly relieved by moonlight, 
the glittering ledge, and the dark old shanty in 
the background, combined to present a very wild 
picture. 

" At the shanty we kindled a fire, took a lunch, 
and upon an old straw bed, laid on a snow-drift, 
drowsed until daybreak. 

" At sunrise we started for the *' Tip Top,' with- 
out snow-shoes. Soon began the labor of advan- 
cing by cutting steps in the ice. When we. halted 
to rest we noticed the stillness that reigned around 
us ; not a breath of air, not a sound of running 
water, — for beneath a wintry robe every water- 
fall was chained. 



N 



64 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

^' How like blank solitude was this death-like 
silence I Yet its loneliness was pleasantly enlivened 
by the wonderful and wide-spread landscape beneath 
and around us, that afforded ample scope for admi- 
ration. Far away, and near at hand, arose glittering 
peaks. A thousand pyramids of smoke hung above 
dark objects, that were roughly set in wide white 
margins. 

" What a host of hopes, fears, joys, and son'ows 
were grouped in these homes below I But we will 
not speculate, for the task before us is to be accom- 
plished slowly and carefully. 

" About five miles up, we came to a wide field of 
ice, where we could not possibly advance without 
cutting deep steps. It is not fiction to declare 
that, as the pieces of ice went whirling down like 
a heavy shower of hail, at least eight hundred feet 
below, a shudder, such as teaches poor mortality 
its weakness, came over us. 

^' One false step or careless motion, in such a 
place, would have sent us down, down, and given 
us a name with other victims of rashness. About 
six miles up, we came to a deep drift that covered 
many. acres; and here, not being able to follow 
the road, we wandered for a long way over snow 
thrown up and hardened in fanciful wavy shapes. 
At one place we climbed through the tops of a 
dwarf growth, that had the appearance of a buried 
wilderness. 



THE TIP-TOP IN FEBRUARY, 1862. 66 

^^ Here we took a lunch, and in a brisk south wind 
that had been rising for the last half hour, found 
the temperature 27° above zero. 

" Looking towards Mount Carter, we beheld a 
long line of black storm-clouds with rainbow tinted 
borders, whirling wildly over, and filled with fear 
for the coming night, up we hastened, — yet gained 
our, object slowly, for at one time, when I had 
slipped down, I looked, and both of my compan- 
ions were down too; but remembering the old 
adage that ' misery loves company,' I kept silent. 

" As we approached the Tip-top a heavy black 
cloud was whirling over ; and as the wind with a 
roar like thunder drove the wintry mass toward 
us, we became enveloped in its embrace, and soon 
the snow and frost had so whitened, that per- 
chance old winter was never better personated 
than by us. 

" Words are a very imperfect medium by which 
to picture the scene that the Tip-top presented. 
The two houses stand out in bold relief, and every 
rock-heap and great rocks about the summit, are 
now to be seen through a thick covering of glitter- 
ing ice. Curious leaves of snow stand out from 
the jagged parts on the northerly side, in all the 
imaginable and fanciful shapes that the frost has 
ever pictured on the window glass. For the last 
half mile below the top, we could distinctly see 



66 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

through i^e ice and snow the wheel tracks made 
in .the carriage road last season ; and with the 
exception of now and then a deep drift, the whole 
mountain summit shows its rocks. There is a 
great drift at the southerly end of the two houses, 
and hardened snow has leveled up the irregular top 
so that with the exception of the eternal wind, it is 
comfortable walking on the crusted or ice-pointed 
snow. 

" The tops of both houses are thickly coated with 
solid ice, — rough and pointed in all imaginary 
shapes. We walked up on to the drift, broke 
away ice fi'om the southerly gable-end window of 
the 'Summit House,' and taking out a window 
entered the attic, where, after removing the snow, 
we brought up, fi'om the darkness and icy confusion 
of a lower room, a stove, got some wood from the 
Tip-top House, kindled a fire, and piling aroimd 
our little stove a barricade of mattresses, prepared 
to pass the night. 

" The heavy wind swept by like thunder, and 
we slept. 

*' Two days' labor and excitement, with our 
midnight walk to the ' Ledge,' had imposed quite a 
tax upon our powers of endurance, and we heeded 
not the tempest that was gathering, till late in the 
morning we found our habitation in a wild, thick 
storm. Language cannot paint the hopes and fears 



THE TIP-TOP IN FEBRUARY, 1862. 67 

that struggle in the mind at such a time. But to 
make the best of our condition, we prepared for a 
siege, and looked about. 

" The interior of both houses we found much de- 
ranged by the winter storm. Snow and ice, from 
three inches to five feet deep, lay piled in all direc- 
tions, the furniture being most curiously set in 
feathery white casingis. 

" In the bar-room we noticed a spade which was 
cased in clear ice ; and in one place a little cord, 
suspended from the roof, had assumed the appear- 
ance of a glass tube some two inches thick and two 
feet long. The cloth roofing and wall paper is in 
many rooms torn down, while fancy snow-wreaths 
and icicles are all around upon the walls and roof. 
The darkened windows, with the thick covering 
without, combined with the ceaseless roar of the 
wind, gave the whole scene a chilling air of deso- 
lation. 

" To conclude without longer taxing the reader's 
patience. We stayed two days and two nights on 
the top of Mount Washington ; experienced the 
effect of a wild snow-storm that drove by us for 
thirty-six hours, had one of the most magnificent 
sunrise scenes that imagination can picture ; saw 
the sun go down in a vast snow-bank ; saw moon- 
light upon a hundred glittering peaks; found the 
most extreme cold while there indicated at 5° be- 



68 EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. 

low zero; returned to the Glen in a thick snow 
storm, and now feel perfectly satisfied with our 
trip. 

*'We were remarkably well satisfied with the 
weather, and were very lucky about climbing over 
the ice-Tclad rocks. Should others attempt to go 
up among the clouds, for their own sake they 
should go thoroughly prepared for the worst. 

*' An iron-pointed stafi*, with an axe, and plenty 
of food and clothing, are indispensable."* 

Our expedition, therefore, was undertaken in the 
face of all previous experience among the moun- 
tains, excepting our own the previous season on 
Moosilauke. Failure was universally predicted. 
Indeed, it was commonly reported in Bethlehem 
and Littleton, in January and February, that one 
of the party had been fi'ozen to death, and was at 
the summit embalmed in ice, waiting for the advent 
of the railroad train, so that he might be taken to 
some cemetery below. But we have clearly proved 
to the world that it is possible for men to spend the 
winter upon this frozen peak, and not to be deprived 
of a weekly mail. So much finer are the winter 
views from the summit than those of any other sea- 
son of the year, that we anticipate shortly the occu- 
pation of one of the hotels for the benefit of visitors 



IN THE FUTURE. 



69 



in all months of the year, and should not be greatly 
surprised to learn that the engine had uiade its way 
through the driftis, in some favorable season, to the 
Tery highest accessible point. 





CHAPTER IV. 

THE APPROACHES TO MOONT WA8HIKGT0N. 

I^^^^ROM a distance, the routes toward the 
P^m White Mountaina are qnite numerous, and 
'^ ^rff* \ their respective advantages are fully set 
forth in the guide books. There are now three 
ways of ascending Mount Washington from below : 
two from the west and one from the east ; or a rail- 
way, a carriage road, and a bridle path. 

The first path to the summit was marked oat by 
Ethan Crawford in 1819. The visitors by this time 
had become so numerous that a path was indispen- 
sable, at least as far as to the beginning of the Al- 
pine i-egion. Its construction immediately increased 
the number of visitors. This path commenced at 
the Giant's Grave, following the Ammonoosuc Val- 
ley to the base of Washington, and then passing up 
a ridge or spur of the mountain. At some period 
there was a path branching off from this to the sum- 
mit of Mount Pleasant. In 1840, the bridle path 
was cut from the Notch over Mounts Clinton, Pleas- 
ant, Franklin, and Monroe to Washington. This - 
is nine miles in length. 



CARRIAGE ROAD. 61 

. Soon afterwards a longer bridle-path was cut from 
the Mount Crawford House, in Hart's Location, to 
the summit of Mount Washington, by Mr. Davis. 
This passed first over Mount Crawford, and from 
thence along the east side of Dry or Mount Wash- 
ington River. It is now wholly disused. 

Still later, the path between the Fabyan House 
and ** Cold Spring," or the base of Washington, was 
enlarged, and became a carriage road. This was 
in use, though kept in pj^r repair, till it was super- 
seded by the '* Fabyan Turnpike " in 1866. The 
earlier road lay niostly upon the south side of the 
river, below what is now known as Twin River. 
Cold Spring is perhaps a quarter of a mile higher 
up the mountain than the lower depot, or what is 
called " Marshfield " upon the guide-board at the 
entrance of the turnpike. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON CARRIAGE ROAD COMPANY. 

In June, 1858, a company was chartered to build 
a carriage road from the Glen to the Tip Top House, 
with a capital stock of fifty thousand dollars. It 
was organized September 1, 1853, by the choice of 
president, secretary, and directors. The length of 
this road is a little less than eight miles. Its course 
is indicated upon our map. The work of its con- 
struction commenced in 1855. By its original de- 
sign, the road was to be sixteen feet wide, macad- 



62 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON, 

amized, and ^ to have a protection- wall three feet 
high in dangerous places. The road was completed 
as far as the " Ledge," or half way, in 1866. In 
1861 it was completed to the summit. It is nearly 
double the length of the old bridle-path, as the 
grade must necessarily be much less. The average 
grade is twelve feet in one hundred, and the steep- 
est is about sixteen feet in one hundred, two and 
one half miles from the Glen. The road was com- 
menced under the superintendence of C. H. V. 
Cavis, engineer. The road is kept in excellent re- 
pair, and the rates of toll are not burdensome, con- 
sidering the expense of building. There is a small 
house half-way up the mountain, at the point where 
the trees terminate and the arctic zone commences. 
But the greatest triumph of engineering skill is 
upon the west side of the mountain, and is what is 
sometimes fancifully called the Sky Railway. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY. 

During the season of summer travel, steam cars 
run daily (Sundays excepted) over the Mount 
Washington Railway^ an iron track running up the 
west side of the mountain to the very summit, a 
distance of two miles and thirteen sixteenths, and 
an ascent of 3,625 feet. There is a small collection 
of buildings at the lower end of the railroad, seven 
miles from the White Mountain House, and twenly- 
fourfrom Littleton. 



MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY, 68 

The first efibrt in the direction of ascending 
Mount Washington by steam power seems to have 
been made by Mr. Sylvester Marsh, formerly of 
Chicago, Illinois, and Roxbury, Massachusetts, but 
now residing at Littleton, New Hampshire, and the 
president of the railway company. He invented 
the special contrivances needed to adapt motive 
machines to a highly inclined plane. 

It was found very difficult at the outset to con- 
vince mechanicians and capitalists of the feasibility 
of this ascending railway. Even an inspection of 
the working models failed to give much satisfaction. 
One prominent railroad manager is said to have 
thrown aside the early letters of Mr. Marsh as the 
writing of a maniac. The work was commenced, 
relying chiefly upon his own private resources, and 
little encouragement was afforded by capitalists till 
an engine was actually running over a portion of 
the route. 

Application was made to the Legislature of New 
Hampshire in 1868 to grant a charter for a steam 
railway from their bases to the summits of Mounts 
"Washington and Lafayette. A model of the inven- 
tion was exhibited, and it was stated that the peti- 
tioner and his friends would assume the expense of 
the enterprise. The petition was received with de- 
rision. An amendment was offered by the " wit of 
the house," that a charter be granted for a railroad 



64 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

from the summit of Mount Washington to the 
moon ! The Legislature, however, after sufficient 
deliberation, charitably granted a charter, allowing 
the cars to run for twenty years, or a longer time 
if not then abrogated, in accordance with the usual 
formulas of raflroad laws in New Hampshire. It 
is also provided that it must keep a proper dis- 
tance from the carriage road coming up from the 
Glen House, either the constructed or surveyed 
route, except by consent of the owners of the latter. 
The actual work of construction did not commence 
for a number of years. 

THE FABYAN TURNPIKE. 

As a preliminary operation, it was found desirable 
to build a new turnpike from the stage road near 
the White Mountains to the point where the ascent 
by rail should commence. Work upon it began in 
April, 1866. It is located along the Ammonoosuc 
River for six miles, starting at the old Fabyan stand, 
about five miles northwest of the Crawford House. 
The route has nearly the same objective point as 
the older carriage road, but at the beginning it lies 
along the north bank of the river. The toll-gate is 
upon what was formerly called the " Giant's Grave," 
a long mound of river gravel, deposited in past mil- 
lenniums by the Ammonoosuc, though at first by 
some geologists fancied to have been made by the 



FABYAN TURNPIKE, 66 

reaction of oceanic waves against the hill-side. A 
company has been formed to erect a commodious 
hotel here, but, for some reason not made known to 
the public, the work has been delayed. The old 
" Giant's Grave " has been entirely removed, much 
to the regret of the community, especially as the 
necessity for the expensive grading is not apparent. 
Just within the toll-gate are the graves of some of 
the Crawford family and others. The road passes 
over steep hills of gravel, and then through the 
woods north of the river to the " Upper Falls." 
These continue for about three hundred feet, the 
water falling about fifty feet and winding through 
a narrow, zigzag gorge. After further windings in 
the forest, the road amves at " Twin River," so 
called because a tributary runs parallel to the Am- 
monoosuc for a considerable distance, making the 
stream double. The bridge is on the west border of a 
clearing of perhaps one hundred acres, called " Twin 
River Farm." This clearing is tolerably free from 
boulders, and is quite productive, and the next sum- 
mer's visitors may be fortunate enough to taste of 
the early vegetables grown here; This spot is about 
five hundred feet above the White Mountain House, 
and it is spoken of as possibly the site of the future 
junction of the Mount Washington Railway with 
the extension of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal 
from near Littleton. The land rises more rapidly 



66 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

above Twin River, so that ordinary locomotivea 
cannot pass this point. A small dwelling-house 
has already been erected here. 

After two miles more of travelling through the 
woods up " Winding Hill " we reach the end of the 
turnpike. Here are a few buildings, consisting of a 
hotel, two large barns, one or two dwelling-houses, 
a steam saw-mill, and the various edifices necessary 
for the accommodation of a railroad. The village 
is inhabited in the winter by a party of lumbermen. 
The turnpike is kept in excellent repair, the tolls 
being sufficient to keep it in good condition. Its 
cost was upwards of $10,000. 

THE RAILROAD. 

The railroad was commenced in May, 1866. It 
starts from a point 2,668 feet above the level of the 
sea, and 3,625 below the summit. The distance 
traversed is two miles and thirteen sixteenths. The 
average grade is 1,300 feet to the mile, the maxi- 
mum being 1,980 feet to the mile, or thirteen and a 
half inches to the yard. There are nine curves on 
the line, varying from 497 to 945 feet radius. The 
first vear the road was built a distance of about a 
quarter of a mile. In 1867, the track was extended 
to " Waumbek Junction," a distance of one mile 
and eight rods. Work was resumed May 7, 1868, 
and in eighty-four working days it had advanced 



THE RAILROAD. 67 

more than a mile, or to the top of ^^ Jacob's Ladder." 
The work was continued till the cold weather set 
iti, and the last few rods of the track were laid in 
July, 1869. 

The road was built under the superintendence of 
J. J. Sanborn of Franklin, New Hampshire. The 
cost of the road has already exceeded $120,000, and 
when the depots, turn-outs, and rolling stock are 
ftilly completed, it will reach about $150,000. 
About 800,000 feet of sawed lumber have been 
used in its construction, all of which was cut at the 
steam mill near the depot, 

The track .consists of three rails, the outer four 
feet seven and one half inches apart, which sustain 
the principal weight of the rolling stock, the inner 
a cog^ail^ which is the indispensable peculiarity of 
this railway. All three of the rails rest upon timr 
bers laid lengthwise upon sawed ties three and a 
half feet apart. The lateral timbers were originally 
covered by a narrow strip of iron, but these are 
rapidly giving way to a small T rail of more mod- 
em appearance. The central rail is four inches 
wide, and is surmounted by two pieces of wrought 
angle iron, each twelve feet long, three inches wide, 
and three eighths of an inch thick. These strips 
are placed upon their edges, parallel to each other, 
and are connected by strong iron pins an inch and 
a half in diameter, and four inches apart from cen- 



68 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

tre to centre. It may be likened to a ladder fast- 
ened to a wide plank. This cog-rail is held down 
by spikes and flanges. The teeth of the driving- 
wheel of the engine play into the spaces between 
the bolts, and as it revolves the whole engine is 
made to move, resting upon the outer rail. The 
operation is practically one cog-wheel working into 
another. These cog-rails have cost about two dol- 
lars per foot delivered at the foot of the mountain. 

THE ENGINE. 

At the first view of the engine, one is reminded 
of a pile-driver. The boiler is upright, tubular, 
and is bolted firmly to the frames. There is a 
covering for the engineer, and a tender is attached 
for storing water and fuel, as in ordinary railroad 
engines. The driving-shaft is connected with .two 
cylinders, with a crank shaft geared into the centre 
so as to reduce the speed and multiply the power. 
A twenty-four inch gear works into a six-inch gear, 
and the engine makes four revolutions to one of the 
driver. Thus the contrivances in this mountain 
engine are adapted to develop power at the expense 
of the speed. Force may also be required at times 
to hold the train at rest upon a high grade. When 
moving, the engine always takes the down-hill end 
of the train. In ascending, a strong wrought-iron 
*' dog " works into a wheel rolling on the cog-rail. 



STOPPING THE TRAIN. 69 

preventing the train from falling back a single inch. 
The accompanying sketch will give a good idea of 
the engine. 

The contrivances for stopping the train are also 
ingenious and peculiar. First is the friction hrake^ 
consisting of an iron band extending around each 
wheel, tightened at will. Second is the power of 
reversing the driving wheel. Next there are atmos- 
pheric brakes upon each side of the cars. Their 
application is so successful that a platform or pas- 
senger car may be detached from the engine and 
lowered by itself, being completely under the con- 
trol of the brakeman. The mechanics who came 
up in 1866 and 1868 to witness the operation of the 
engine, satisfied themselves perfectly of the adapt- 
edness of these atmospheric brakes to their office. 
These brakes enable the train to descend without 
the use of steam. There are in all five or six ways 
of stopping the trains^ 

Notwithstanding the perfection of these contriv- 
ances, many persons apprehend that there is a lia- 
bility to serious disasters. Such may have their 
fears removed by recalling the occurrence of July 
29, 1869, When the train was descending " Ja- 
cob's Ladder," the steepest grade upon the whole 
road, an unusual noise was heard beneath the en- 
gine. The engineer signaled the brakeman to stop 
the train, but the warning was not noticed at first. 



\ 



70 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

The signal was quickly repeated, and in an instant 
the brake was apph'ed, and the train stopped. It 

' appeared that the axle of the driving wheel had 
broken. Such a casualty upon an ordinary locomo- 
tive is of a very serious nature, and usually involves 
the destruction of the train. But this mountain 
train was stopped in an instant, and the detached 
wheels scarcely changed their positions, while no 
very sensible jar was experienced by the passen- 
gers. This occurrence has demonstrated that the 
train is completely under the, control of the engi- 
neer ; for a more serious accident; or one in a more 
dangerous position could nfot have happened, yet no 
injuries were received by any one. Hence so long 
as the track is kept in good condition, no one need 
be apprehensive of danger in travelling over the 

^ Mount Washington Railway. 

The first engine brought to the mountain was 
built by Campbell, Whittier, and Company, of Rox- 
bury, Mass., at a cost of $3,000. It weighs about 
four tons, and is. rated at twenty-five horse-power. 

.Three new ones (see the figure) have been built 
by Walter Aiken, of Franklin, N. H., each weigh- 
ing six and a half tons, and rated at about fifty 
horse-power ; but on account of the gearing they 
are practically two hundred horse-power. The car- 
riage for, passengers resembles a horse-car, though 
longer, with a roof, side windows, and doors at the 



A STEEP GRADE. 71 

ends* There is an aisle through the centre, and 
seats are provided for forty- eight persons. In the 
first cars used, the seats were swung so as to secure 
for them a horizontal position upon all the grades. 
Walking through the car is like travelling up and 
down the roof of a building. Some of the cars have 
the sides open, and can be used only when the 
weather is sure to be warm, and the wind is not 
boisterous. 

THE ROUTE. 

The lower depot is, upon^ the west bank of the 
Ammonoosuc, at the end of the turnpike. It is a 
plain wooden edifice about sixty feet long, with 
two stories. ^ The stream is crossed by trestle-work 
about fifteen feet high, and the track commences 
with the grade of seventeen hundred feet to the 
mile, nearly as steep as upon " Jacob's Ladder." 
Place the end of a ladder thirty feet long upon a 
fence ten feet high, and an adequate idea of the in- 
clination of the railway at its commencement will 
be exhibited 'to us. This steep incline does not 
continue more than three hundred feet. At three 
quarters of a mile is the first water station. The 
water comes from a spring very near the track, a 
little beyond " Cold Spring," which affords a de- 
lightfiil halting place for pedestrians. Before reach- 
ing "Waumbek Junction" the grade becomes 
steeper again* The " Junction " is one mile and 



72 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

eight rods in distance, and 1,242 feet higher than 
the starting point. The name is derived from the 
intersection here of the old Fabyan and Waumbek 
bridle-paths. At the Junction is a small unused 
building and a water-tank. Up to this point the 
road is nearly straight, and a wide path has been 
cut for it through the forests Just beyond there 
are curves in the track, the trees begin to be 
dwarfed, and very shortly there is a cut through a 
ledge of andalusite gneiss, the first rock passed over 
in the ascent. The railway also intersects the 
Fabyan bridle-path just above Waumbek Junction 
and at the foot of " Jacob's Ladder." 

This latter appellation was originally applied to 
a zigzag portion of the Fabyan path over a steep 
projection of the mountain. It now relates to a 
portion of the railroad in the neighborhood, a long 
trestle-work, at one point thirty feet high, and with 
an inclination of more than one in three for three 
hundred feet. This structure is built as strongly 
as any similar work upon an ordinary railroad which 
has to sustain a weight many times greater. Its 
elevation above the ground, the steep grade, the 
abrupt change in the vegetation from trees to lich- 
ens, the impressive views of the valleys, and com- 
monly the first indications of the powerful winds of 
the upper air, forcibly arrest the attention of the 
passengers, especially as every upward train stops at 



THE SHOULDER OF THE MOUNTAIN. 78 

the tank to receive an additional supply of water. 
This tank is 2,800 feet above the starting point and 
IS filled from springs higher up the mountain, the 
water being conveyed by lead pipes several hun- 
dred feet. 

Above Jacob's Ladder the inclination is not very 
steep,, there being only about eight hundred feet of 
ascent, in the remaining distance of more than a 
mile. The main ridge between Mounts Clay and 
Washington is soon reached, and the traveller 
can look down a thousand feet into the " Gulf of 
Mexico," or the deep chasm out of which rises the 
West Branch of Peabody River, one of the tributa- 
ries of the Androscoggin. The fourth and last of 
the water-tanks is placed at a level of 3,132 feet 
above the depot. The further ascent is gradual, the 
broad shoulder of the mountain presenting the char- 
acteristic features of arctic desolation, — a wide ex- 
panse of large angular blocks of schist and granite, 
severed from the now concealed ledges by the freez- 
ing agencies.of centuries. Between the fragments 
may be seen clumps of saxifrages, sandworts, and 
reindeer moss, the same species of plants which en- 
liven the barren wastes of Labrador and Greenland. 
As far as the upper limit of trees, boulders that 
have been transported by the glacial drift from 
more northern summits are common. They rapidly 
diminish in number and size upon that point, and 



74 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON, 

have not been seen far above the fourth water-tank, 
or above an altitude of 5,800 feet. The last land- 
mark of interest along the railway is the " Lizzie 
Bourne " monument, thirty rods from the summit. 

During the height of the season (Sundays ex- 
cepted) double trains will run up the Mount Wash- 
ington railway, from the middle of June to the first 
of October. The up-trains pass over the distance 
in ninety minutes, or at the rate of two miles per 
hour, stopping to take in water at each of the four 
tanks. The descent is accomplished in less time, 
as there is no occasion to stop for water on the 
way down. One needs to ascend two or three times 
before the sense of danger is entirely dissipated, so 
that he can appreciate and enjoy the novel condi- 
tions of the journey. 

SLIDING DOWN HILL. 

The employees of the company often amuse 
themselves by sliding down the railway upon a 
board. There are two ways of arranging this 
vehicle of conveyance. The simplest and safest is 
to "place the board across the central rail, and the 
person sitting upon it checks his course with his 
feet, one upon each side of the rail, striking against 
the ties, forty inches apart. The body must lean 
backwards a little, else an occasional irregularity in 
the rail will stop the progress of the board, and the 



OTHER MOUNTAIN RAILWAYS. 76 

passenger will be thrown off, at the risk of breaking 
a limb. By the other method the board, perhaps a 
yard long, has two narrow strips nailed beneath, so 
that it cannot slip off the rail, and the experimenter 
can put his feet upon it, using short sticks as brakes 
to diminish the speed. The board does not fit so 
closely to the rail as in the first instance, so that 
there is less danger from a sudden stop ; but there 
is danger that the brakes may become unmanagea- 
ble. By the first method a vast amount of muscular 
energy is demanded in the thighs, and those who 
try it, will have occasion to remember their journey 
for days afterwards, whenever attempting to walk. 
Persons have been known to slide the whole 
distance in tep minutes, but strangers are advised 
to avoid these " new methods." Our figure illus- 
trating the laying of the Kerite wire shows how the 
slope may be easily descended. 

OTHER MOUNTAIN RAILWAYS. 

It is not a new idea to use a cog-wheel upon a 
railway, as the first road in England where steam 
was applied to locomotion, was constructed with 
notched rails. Ordinary railroads do not require 
them, as there is sufiicient friction between the rail ' 
and the wheels for all practical purposes. There is 
a railway over Mount Cenis, between Prance and 
Italy, which uses a different piethod for climbing 



76 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

high grades. The power is obtained by a "V 
friction rail " — occupying a central position, just 
as on Mount Washington. The rail is shaped like 
two V's, Y, and two horizontal wheels running in 
the grooves give rise to sufficient friction to draw 
the trains. The grades are not over four hundred 
feet to the mile. The European method would 
certainly not be applicable to the inclination of the 
American road, while it may answer very well for 
so small a grade as that employed in the Alps. It 
is stated that a road is in process of construction in 
South America, up the Andes, modeled after Mr. 
Marsh's inventions. 

RAILWAY UPON MOUNT RHIGI. 

When our American railway was in process of 
construction it was visited by a Swiss engineer, 
who took away drawings, etc., of the machinery and 
track, and has employed them since in the con- 
struction of a railway up Mount Rhigi in Switzer- 
land, five thousand five hundred feet high. The 
road is about seventeen* thousand feet long, and 
none of the grades exceed about one foot in four. 
The trestle-work is of iron, sometimes over a hun- 
dred feet high, and there are cuttings in the rock 
for the road-bed ; in one case there is a tunnel nne 
hundred and eighty feet long. The sleepers are 
two feet apart, and there is a double track. The 



OFFICERS OF THE RAILROAD, 77 

cars are like omnibuses, seating forty-five persons 
below, and thirty-six on top. The total cost of the 
road has been two hundred and fifty thousand dol- 
lars. Not less than fifty thousand people visit 
Rhigi annually, and there are three daily trains 
both ways to accommodate them. The speed is 
greater than on Washington, the whole route being 
traversed in one hour. The centre cog-rail, the 
peculiar feature of the American road, is in use, and 
thus the new world has set an example worthy of 
imitation to an older country. The starting point 
is at Yitznau on the Lake of the Four Cantons. 

The ofiicers of the Mount Washington Railroad 
for 1868 were Sylvester Marsh, of Littleton, Presi- 
defat ; J. E. Lyon, of Boston, Hon. Henry Keyes, 
of Newbury, Vermont, Judge Upham, Hon. Ons- 
low Steams, and Nathaniel White, of Concord, New 
Hampshire, Directors. These directors represent 
by their chief officers the B. C. & M. R. R., C. & 
P. R. R., C. R. R., N. R, R., of New Hampshure, 
and the Cheney Express Company. These are the 
oo^panie, whL Lr^ i, U*d by «.• 
prosperity of the mountain railway. 

:* MR. marsh's patents. 

Some may be interested in a more particular de- 
scription of the inventions pertaining to this railway 



78 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

and rolling stock. For such we have copied speci- 
fications from the letteirs patent issued by the 
United States to Sylvester Marsh, the inventor and 
patentee. The first is Nc 44,965, dated Novem- 
ber 8, 1864, and relates to the atmospheric brake : 

" Most or all the brakes heretofore constructed 
or in use involve the principle of the application 
of power, directly or indirectly, to a mechanism 

whereby fidction is produced of an intensity propor- 
tionate to the power applied. For reasons too well 
known to persons acquainted with this particular 
branch of the art, it is dangerous and expensive to 
use brakes of such construction on inclined planes. 

" The object of this invention is the construction 
of a brake which on account of the absence of ex- 
cessive fnction on the wheels or on the rails, are 
less destructive to the road and material ; a brake 
in which power of man is applied neither directly, 
t. e., through the intermediary of chains or levers 
to the wheels or to the rails, and in which power 
produced obtained at no inconsiderable cost is not 
wasted, i. «., absorbed by the mechanism actuating 
the brake ; and, lastly, a brake the force of which 
may be regulated at the pleasure of the attendant. 
And my invention consists — 

" In coupling one or more wheels of railway car- 
riages, locomotives, or other wheeled vehicle or ap- 
paratus with a movable piston or diaphragm of a 



ATMOSPHERIC BRAKES. 79 

cylinder filled with air, or other more or less elastic 
fluid, in combination with valves or other equiva- 
lent means for regulating the egress from, and the 
ingress to, or the displacement in the said cylinder 
of the content^ thereof," etc. 

In letters-patent No. 101,895, dated April 12, 
1870, there is described an "improvement in at- 
mospheric brakes for railway cars." He says : " In 
the practical operation of this apparatus, I have 
found that although in the upward travel of thp car 
the valves or faucets are left open, yet it takes some 
power to move the piston and small gears used in 
the apparatus. For these, under my former ar- 
rangement, must move with the wheels, as it would 
be dangerous to uncouple them, because they are 
needed for instant use in case any accident should 
happen during the ascent. 

" My object in the present invention is to so 
combine the coupling devices with the piston or 
pistons, that the latter shall remain at rest during 
the ascent of the car, and yet be ready for instan- 
taneous operation, should any accident occur which 
might otherwise cause the car to descend. 

" To this end I combine with the car-axle and 
wheels, and the piston or pistons and their coup- 
lings, a ratchet and pawl, clutch or equivalent de- 
vice, operating to permit the free rotation of the 
wheels during the ascent without communicating 



80 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

motion to the piston, and in case of the reverse 
movement or descent of the car, to at once throw 
the pistons in communication with the wheels, for 
the purpose of retarding or of completely arresting 
their movement, as may be desired.*" 

The earliest patent was dated September 10, 
1861, and was for "locomotive engines for ascend- 
ing inclined planes." 

" The present invention relates to that class of 
locomotives which is used in ascending very steep 
grades, and has for its objects, first, obtaining suffi- 
cient power to ascend a steep inclination with a 
light locomotive, instead of a heavy and cumber- 
some one, such as has heretofore been necessarily 
used ; second, preventing the possibility of the en- 
gine being thrown off, or lifted and ungeared from 
the track, by the interposition of any obstruction 
thereon, and the means employed for checking and 
stopping the progress of the train." 

In a letter of May 4, 1871, Mr. Marsh says that 
he has applied for another patent for an engine. 
Its peculiarity consists of a driving gear at each 
end, with four cylinders and a horizontal boiler. 

Letters-patent No. 61,221, dated January 15, 
1867, relate to " improved cog-rail for railroads." 

" The object of my invention is to construct a 
rail suitable for use on roads of steep grades. It 
need not, however, be limited to this use, as it may 



IMPROVED COG-RAIL. 81 

also be put to many uses for which the ordinary rack 
is employed in combination with gear. To accom- 
plish my object, I take two pieces or bars of angle 
iron, connected by pins or rollers, which, at suita- 
ble intervals from one another, have their bearings 
in the upright sides of the angle iron, thus forming 
a rack or cog-rail with which the gear of the car 
truck can engage. The two bars of angle iron, 
which should be of wrought metal, are bolted, or 
otherwise secured to timber of proper size and di- 
mensions, so as to be parallel with each other, being 
so placed, that their flat sides, by which they are 
bolted to the timber, shall be exterior to the space 
included between their upright sides. The rollers 
or cogs, which have their bearings in the upright 
sides, are placed at suitable distances from one an- 
other to correspond with the distances between the 
teeth of the truck-wheel and are preferably so con- 
structed and arranged as to turn or revolve in 
their bearings. This, however, is not absolutely 
essential, for the pins or cogs may be rigidly con- 
nected with the uprights. But I prefer the arrange- 
ment shown in the drawings, as friction is thereby 
lessened, and the wear of the metal which the pas- 
sage of the truck-wheels over the rail would oth- 
erwise occasion, is in a great measure prevented. 
An important feature of the cog rail thus con- 
structed, is, that its open structure will, in most 

6 



82 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

cases, keep the pins or rollers from being clogged by 
ice or snow or dirt to such a degree as to be unfitted 
for use, the liability to which constitutes one of the 
most serious drawbacks to the employment of the 
ordinary rack for that purpose. The open space 
between, beneath, and in fact on all sides of the 
cogs, except at the points where they are hung in 
the uprights, is entirely open, so that comparatively 
little obstacle is ofiered to the passage of the wheels 
over the rails, even when the latter are overlaid with 
snow." 

TRIAL TRIP. 

The first public trial trip of the engines upon the 
Mount Washington Railway, took place August 
29, 1866. A large party of railroad presidents, 
superintendents, etc., were present, and it was the 
inspection of the practical operation of the engines 
at this time that led the public . to believe that the 
enterprise was feasible. The road had been com- 
pleted about a quarter of a mile, and trains were 
kept running up and down for two hours, during 
which time it is supposed that every one of the 
assembly rode upon the train. The mechanics and 
engineers present managed the engine for them- 
selves, repeatedly stopping and starting again on the 
way up and down. Mr. Marsh and his assistants 
were unremitting in their efibrts to explain every 
part of the machinery and to answer all questions. 



THE RAILWAY. 88 

The party were well pleased with the road and its 
appurtenances, and at the White Mountain House 
the same day, passed the following resolutions : — 

" Itesolvedy That we have witnessed with deep in- 
terest the trial trips made this day on the railroad 
now being constructed to the summit of Mount 
Washington, and would express our full confidence 
in the scientific principles of its construction and its 
practical and safe mode of operation. 

" Hesolvedy That we regard the construction of this 
road as the commencement of a new era in the ap- 
pUcation of steam power in overcoming grades over 
high tsummits and mountain ascents, so as to open 
new means of business enterprise and greatiy en- 
large the facilities of enjoyment of the best and 
noblest scenery of the country. 

^^ Besolved^ that Sylvester Marsh, by his great 
Aill and ingenuity in the invention of his nc!wly 
constructed mode of railway for ascending high 
grades, and his energy and efficiency in its practical 
application, is entitled to the high appreciation and 
regard of his fellow-citizens and is richly deserving 
our tribute to him as a public benefactor." 

OPENING OF THE RAILWAY.. 

The road was formally opened to the public 
August 14, 1868, at which time it was completed 
as far as Jacob's Ladder. A large party of rail- 



84 APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

road officials and others were present, rode up the 
mountain, walked to the summit, and returned the 
same afternoon. The occasion was one of great 
interest. 

These gentlemen came by special train to Lit- 
tleton, thence by stages to the White Mountain 
House, where they spent the night. The day for 
the ascent was clear and cold, the thermometer 
standing at 38° Fahrenheit in the morning. At 
eight o'clock they started for the depot. The im- 
pression had gone abroad that the trip up and down 
the mountain was to be a free affair for all whb 
chose to participate therein, and therefore all the 
guests of the adjacent hotels and the residents of 
the vicinity had assembled in order to ride up the 
mountain. As they arrived first the cars were 
crowded before the invited guests made their ap- 
pearance. It therefore became necessary to request 
those who had come uninvited — and a large num- 
ber were ladies — to give up their places to the 
guests of the day, many of whom had journeyed 
hundreds of miles to be present. It was generously 
proposed to send the cars down again for those who 
were thus left behind, but it was found to be im- 
practicable, and word to that effect was sent back 
by telegraph. 

The two engines were used, and both trains 
started at twenty-two minutes past ten. The 



VISIT OF PRESIDENT GRANT. 86 

newer and more stylish tornoat took the lead and 
transported the majority of the par^, amounting 
to fi% or sixty. The other train carried about 
forty persons. For some reason the progress was 
slow, rather more than three hour's time having 
been consumed on- the way to Jacob's Ladder. 
The party went on foot the rest of the way to the 
Summit, where about two hundred visitors had 
assembled from the Glen, Crawford, and other 
houses. At the Tip-top House, a bountiful din- 
ner was provided, which was highly appreciated 
after the scramble up the arctic zone. The dis- 
tant view was impau*ed by a hazy atmosphere, and 
the air was cool but the day was pleasant, and 
everything conspired to jnake the excursion success- 
ftil. The stay at the summit was brief, and after 
embarkation on the trains good speed was made, the 
downward journey being accomplished in an hour 
and a half. 

In 1869, General Grant with his family visited 
Mount Washington. They ascended upon the 
railway, and were much pleased with their trip. 
Though so many of the White Mountain peaks 
have received their names from the Presidents of 
the United States, it is not known that any one of 
them has ever before been honored by the presence 
of the Chief Executive. 



86 ■ APPROACHES TO MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

About five thousand persons were carried over 
the Mount Washington Railway, in 1870, or a 
majority of those who ascended daring the whole 





CHAPTER V. 



MOOSILAUKE. 




OT being able to secure a house on the 
summit of Mount Washington in 1869, 
we determined, as an experiment, to oc- 
cupy the summit of Moosilauke for two months. 
This mountain is in the town of Benton, but it is 
approached from the village of Warren, from which 
place there is now a carriage road to the summit. 
It was late autumn before any preparations were 
made. Wood had to be hauled up a mountain 
bridle-path more than a mile, and this was no small 
task at this season of the year ; a room had to be 
fitted up and provisions taken to the summit. On 
the 23d of November, having obtained men and 
horses, we attempted to make the ascent. 

As we came where the trees were small, we per- 
ceived that it was growing cold. When a mile 
from the summit, we were met by such a blast of 
wind, with driving snow, that we were compelled 
to halt. The men who had gone forward soon re- 
turned, driven back by the fierceness of the blast. 



88 MOOSILAUKE, 

They reported that the snow was in such immense 
drifts that it would be impossible for the horses to 
pass. Our only resource was to return to the foot 
of the mountain. The contrast between our even- 
ing meal and the dinner before starting, was strik- 
ing. Then all was life and animation, the conversa- 
tion sparkling with wit and humor ; but a chill had 
been cast over the whole group ; some were - in 
agony from frosted feet ; some, if their ears were not 
fi*ozen, were suffering pain from the effects of the 
cold, while others were lame from their severe 
efforts in climbing the mountain. One only of the 
group was jubilant and hopeful, the pioneer of this 
mountain, James Clement, who will be recognized 
by all that have visited Moosilauke, for they will 
remember the remarkable stories by which he has 
beguiled the weary hours while making the ascent 
of the mountain, not unfrequently drawing upon his 
imagination to make them more vivid than if re- 
lated in plain language without any embellishment. 
While each had something of which to complain, 
he would say, " that the worst was over," and 
there was probably not one besides him, who had 
any idea of trying again to reach the summit before 
the sun of another summer had melted the snow. 
But morning came, the snow was crisp, the air 
was cool, and the mountain stood out in clear, sharp 
outline against the deep blue sky. Everything 



UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN 89 

now seemed propitions, and we determined to make 
another attempt to reach the summit, and in this 
we were successful. For two days the weather 
was charming, but on the third the mountain was 
enveloped in clouds, and the frozen mist adhered 
to eveiything with which it came in contact ; the 
horses instead of being bay and iron-gray were of 
snowy whiteness, and the men with long hair and 
flowing beard seemed venerable as with age. Imag- 
ination could hardly conceive of a group more gro- 
tesque. But this day our work was completed and 
we descended the mountain. It was late in De- 
cember before our provisions were taken up. We 
thought that we should be able to draw them up 
by hand, but we found a little too much work in this, 
so we fastened together two large hand-sleds and 
took a horse. We had to shovel some snow, but 
we reached the summit with our load. During the 
night a terrific storm arose.; so fierce was it that 
to venture out was extremely hazardous. In the 
morning, however, there was no alternative, we 
must go down, as we had nothing for the horse to 
eat and the storm might continue for a week. The 
wind blew so fiercely that we could hardly get 
breath, besides the cold was intense. The horse 
braced himself against the wind so that he walked 
quite steady, but he would not move a step except 
as he was led. The men could not keep their foot- 



90 MOOSILAUKE. 

ing and were several times blown nearly over the 
crest of the ridge ; bijt we reached the woods where 
it was comparatively quiet, and except ears touched 
with frost we were unscathed. On the last day of 
December Mr. A. F. Clough and myself ascended 
the mountain to remain for two months. The rock 
of the mountain is mica schist. Everywhere there 
are marks of the great denuding agencies that have 
worn away the rocks. The general direction of 
the crest of the summit is northeast and southwest, 

• 

and it corresponds with the strike of the rocks ; the 
top of the mountain is mostly covered with drift, in 
which are water- worn fragments of schist and a few 
erratic boulders of other rocks. There is a space of 
twenty or thirty acres on the summit comparatively 
level, on which grow sedges, mosses, lichens, and 
the mountain cranberry, while along the border the 
spruce struggle for a scanty existence as they attain 
the height of only a few inches. 

THE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. 

There is scarcely a mountain in New England 
from which the view is more extensive. We can 
see nearly the whole State of New Hampshire, with 
its numerous mountain peaks. Eastward is Mount 
"Washington " in solemn repose," and on either side 
its neighboring peaks ; all are of immaculate white- 
ness ; and Lafayette with its deep scarred sides 



ABOVE THE CLOUDS. 91 

and its lines of white extending far down into the 
evergreen forests; and then there is Carrigain and 
Pequawket, and the mountain ridges along the east 
branch of the Pemigewasset. Southward is Lake 
Winnipiseogee, with its numerous isles, glittering 
in the sunlight like a gem of the purest water. 
The Uncanoonucs, Kearsarge, and Monadnock are 
distinct in outline. Westward is the whole State 
of Vermont ; and Ascutney, the most pointed of its 
mountains, is conspicuous. As the eye follows up 
the Green Mountain range, the different peaks are 
easily distinguished, while still further to the west 
the sharp peaks of the Adirondacks, now snow-clad, 
seem to pierce the clear blue sky. Moosilauke is 
so much higher than the immediate neighboring 
peaks^ that " the whole country is spread out as a 
grand intrusive, raised map before the beholder." 

ABOVE THE CLOUDS. 

On the first day of January the sun rose clear. 
We were above the clouds, and a grander spectacle 
one does not often behold. The clouds seemed to 
roll and surge like the billows of the ocean. They 
were of every dark and of every brilliant hue ; here 
they were resplendent with golden light, and there 
they were of silvery brightness ; here of rosy tints, 
there of sombre gray ; here of snowy whiteness, 
there of murky darkness ; here gorgeous with the 



92 MOOSILAUKE. 

play of colors, and there the livid h'gfat flashes deep 
down into the gulfe formed by the eddying mist, 
while 

" Far overhead 
The sky, without a vapor or a stain, 
Intensely blue, even deepened into purple 
When nearer the horizon it received 
A tincture from the mist that there dissolved 
Into the viewless air. . . . The sky bent round 
The awful dome of a most mighty temple 
Built by Omnipotent hand for nothing less 
Than infinite worship. So beautiful, 
So bright, so glorious I . . . . Such a majesty 
' In yon pure vault ! So many dazzling tints 
In yonder waste of waves.*' 

Bat above all these clouds, these flashes of light, . 
this darkness, rise in stately grandeur the summits 
of Mount Washington, " sublime in its canopy <rf 
«now," and Lafayette, with a few peaks of lesser alti- 
tude glittering in the bright sunlight. As the sun 
rises higher the picture &des away, and the whole 
country is flooded with light. Did this g)*ande'ur, 
this magniflcence, this grand display of lights, of 
shadows, and shades, these clouds, so resplendent, 
so beautiful, portend a storm ? In the evening the 
wind changed to the southeast and increased in 
velocity. 



A TERRIFIC STORM. 98 



THE GREAT STORM OF THE SECOND OF JANUARY. 

At daylight on the second it was snowing. This 
soon changed to sleet and then to rain, and at eight 
A. M. the velocity of the wind was seventy miles 
per hour. At twelve, there was a perfect teni|»e>t. 
Althongh the wind w&s so fearful, yet Mr. Clon^li 
was determined to know the exact rate at wliieli it 
was blowing. By clinging to the rocks he suc- 
ceeded in reaching a place where he could expose 
the anemometer and not be blown away himself. 
He found the velocity to be ninety-seven and a half 
miles per hour; the greatest velocity, until that 
time, ever recorded. When he reached the house 
he was thoroughly saturated, the wind havinjj 
driven the rain through every garment, although 
they were of the heaviest material, as though they 
were made of the lightest fabric. During the after- 
noon the rain and the gale continued with unabated 
violence. The rain was driven through every crack 
and crevice of the house, and the floor of our room 
was flooded. So fierce was the draught of the stove 
that the wind literally took away every spai'k of fire, 
leaving only the half-charred wood in the stove, and 
•it was with the greatest difficulty that we succeeded 
in rekindling it. During the evening the wind 
seemed to increase in fury, and although the win- 
dow was somewhat protected, yet nearly every glass 



94 MOOSILAUKE, 

that was exposed was broken by the pressure of the 
gale. As the lights were broken, the fire was again 
extinguished, and even my hurricane lantern was 
blown out as quickly as if the flame had been 
unprotected. Darkness if not terror reigned, but 
calmness, with energy, are requisites for such an 
occasion, and fortunately th^y were not wanting 
now. Our necessities quickly showed us what to 
do. By nailing boards across the windows and by 
the use of blankets we stopped the openings the 
wind had made. After nine p. m. there were occa- 
sional lulls in the storm, and by twelve it had con- 
siderably abated, at least enough to bring on that 
depression that naturally succeeds a period of in- 
tense excitement ; so we willingly yielded ourselves 
to sleep, to dream of gentle zephyrs and sunny 
skies. 

AN OUT-LOOK. 

When it was clear, there was a strong tempta- 
tion, notwithstanding the cold, to be out of doors, 
to watch the clouds, not only when they filled the 
valleys, but flitted across the mountain and sailed 
away. At first, of almost fiery redness, then changing 
to gray and neutral tints, until almost black, they 
seemed to gather round some distant peak. Or as 
a dark band they lay between the Franconia and 
White Mountains, leaving only the snow-clad sum- 
mits above the dark border ; or at sunset when they 



AN OUT-LOOK. 95 

lay in narrow bands, or rose-tinted clusters around 
the summit of Mount Washington, while elsewhere 
there were those of leaden hue such as are seen only 
in winter. 

Often when the sky is partially overcast, through 
the intervening spaces of the clouds we see that 
intense blue sky which is peculiar to high altitudes. 
As the azure color is due to the light reflected by 
the air, the purer the air the more decided is this 
azure tint. No scene* more grand and beaiftiful 
ever greeted the eye of man than when beyond 
the dark band of clouds just below the summits of 
the Franconia and White Mountains, those of rose 
and orange tints lie along the horizon just above 
Jthe snow-capped summit of Mount Washington 
and against this azure sky. From Moosilauke you 
command the whole panorama of the White Moun- 
tain range and you- may see something of the 
effect witnessed among the Alps. " As the day 
dies, the last shadows pass with strange rapidity 
from peak to peak. The passage is so rapid, so 
sudden, as the shadows vanish from one height 
and appear on the next, that it seems like the step 
of some living spirit of the mountains. Then, as 
the sun sinks, it sheds a brilliant glow across them, 
and upon that follows the strangest effect of all, — 
a sudden pallor, an ashy paleness on the mountains, 
that has a ghastly, chilly look. But this is not their 



96 MOOSILAUKE. 

last aspect ; after the sun has vanished out of sight, 
in place of the glory of his departure and the corpse- 
like pallor that succeeds it, there spreads over the 
mountain a faint blush that dies gradually into the 
night. These changes — the glory, the death, the 
soft succeeding life — really seem like something 
that has a spiritual existence." 

ICE COLUMNS. 

Half a mile northeast of the summit is a small 
lake, which is the source of the Asquamchemauke, 
or Baker River. This stream flows half a mile, 
when it reaches an immense gulf, where it falls 
in precipitous cascades of several hundred feet. 
Across the head of this gulf, where it terminates 
so abruptly, the stream falls in a hundred stream-* 
lets. The ice columns formed by these in winter 
are a grand feature in the scenery. Around an im- 
mense amphitheatre, there can be seen from below, 
ice in columns, in sheets, in protruding masses ; and 
where it has poured over the edge of a pre- 
cipitous rock, there is an ice cavern of wondrous 
beauty. Here we are surrounded by ice. On the 
left are columns ten, twenty, and thirty feet in 
height; before us is a narrow gorge, the sides of 
which are covered with massive ice. To the right, 
and almost veiled from sight by a thin film of ice, 
is an ice cavern, made resplendent by the bright 



A WINTER SCENE . 97 

snnlight, and it is in striking contrast with the col- 
umns on the left, over which fall the dark shadows 
of the mountain. 

Besides, to-day there is frost on every bough and 
every spray of the foliage ; it resembles snow in its 
crystals, not a perfect snow-flake, but only one of its 
points magnified a hundred times. On the bridle- 
path, about a mile from the summit, during a rain 
in February, the trees, which are from ten to fif- 
teen feet in height, became entirely incased in ice ; 
and pendent from the branches of the firs were 
icicles more than a foot in length. Then came the 
snow, and for two weeks we had a winter scene, 
which for extraordinary brilliancy and magnificence 
can probably never be surpassed. In the sunlight 
the trunk of every tree was of silvery brightness, 
and every spray of the evergreen foliage had its 
brilliant gems, which reflected the light in dazzling 
splendor. 

« 

A GRAND DISPLAY OF CLOUDS. 

On the 19th of February there were two cur- 
rents of air, the upper had its lowest stratum prob- 
ably two thousand feet below the summit. In the 
morning the upper current was northwest, with a 
velocity of fifty miles per hour. About twelve the 
wind changed to the north and increased in velocity, 

and at five p. m. it had a velocity of seventy miles. 

7 



98 MOOSILAUKE. 

At the foot of the mountain there was scarcely a 
perceptible breeze, yet up a thousand feet there 
was a strong current from the southwest, and the 
clouds seemed to move almost as rapidly as those 
from the north. On account of the velocity of the 
wind, and the upward pressure of the currents be- 
low, the effect was remarkable. The whole country 
except the higher summits, was covered with clouds, 
and these were moving at the rate, probably, of 
more than ^ixty miles per hour, and everywhere 
they were broken into scathing undulating masses, 
for as they came near the mountains, in an in- 
stant almost, they would be lifted more than a 
thousand feet to be carried over the summits. As 
far as the eye could reach, embracing thousands of 
square miles, was this rolling, tumultuous mass of 
clouds. 

A PERILOUS DESCENT. 

The last of February it was extremely cold, the 
wind had blown fiercely from the north for several 
days, with a velocity from sixty to seventy miles 
per hour. The thermometer ranged from zero 
to seventeen below. Our wood was nearly ex- 
hausted, and who could tell how long the wind 
would blow, or the cold continue. . So we loaded a 
sled and took it down on the southeast side of the 
mountain, and were thus in a great measui*e pro- 
tected from the wind. When we came on the 



A PERILOUS DESCENT, 99 

ridge, as long as we could keep under the firs that 
grow where the ridge is low, and the footing was 
secure, we were able to stand against the blast. 
But should we be able to follow the ridge where 
there was no protection from the wind ? The only- 
way to find out was to make the trial. When 
we reached the highest part of the ridge the wind 
swept across with irresistible fury. Clough held the 
sled to keep it from blowing away. When a good 
foothold could be secured, we were able to make 
some progress. When not able to brace against 
the wind, I was blown from the ridge, then crawling 
back, would make another effort, only to be blown 
away again, until finally, the sbd, notwithstanding 
the most strenuous efforts were made to hold it, 
was blown against a projecting rock with such 
force that the standards were broken, and thus it 
was entirely disabled. Here we were, the wind 
blowing seventy miles per hour, and the ther- 
mometer at zero or below. What was to be done ? 
A decision must be made at once. To remain 
here only for a moment, without putting forth 
severe physical efforts, we should become statues 
only too lifelike. We pulled the broken sled with 
its load over the side of the ridge where the wind 
was not quite so fririous, and Clough went back to 
get a sled, which had been left two days before, 
where we first came on the ridge. It was only 



100 M008ILAUKE. 

after a severe struggle with Boreas, in which he 
came very near being vanquished, that he was able 
to secure it. To reload here, was no easy task, but 
it was accomplished, and we soon succeeded' in. 
reaching the woods, where we were protected from 
the wind. It was with many regrets that we left 
the mountain, but our brief stay gave us valuable 
experience for Aiture mountain observations. 





PAST SECOND. 

THE EXPEDITION AT WOBC 



CHAPTEE VI. 

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 



ROM the depot of Mount Washington Rail- 
way, the ascent on foot, in sammer, is com- 
paratively easy,, if a person is accustomed to 
walking. Though the ties are three feet apart and 
there is a rise of one foot in tliree, some of tlie way, 
yet a- person with muscles strong from exercise, can 
walk to the very summit without sitting down to 
rest. We would not, however, advise any one to 
walk merely for the exercise, as they would prob- 
ahly get more than they expected. 

But suppose it is a fine day in early winter. 
The snow has already accumulated to a consider- 
able depth, even on the ties, bat then it is no great 
hindrance. Should we, however, attempt to as- 
cend a second time, we shall find that the snow 
that was compressed beneath the feet has changed 



102 ASCENT OF MT, WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 

to ice, and the oval form gives a still less secure 
footing. If the ice is thawing, and is almost ready 
to slip off as we tread upon it, every one will see 
that upon a trestle nearly thirty feet in height, 
walking is somewhat dangerous, and to walk down 
is a feat from which a most expert acrobat would 
shrink. If at the depot, we take snow-shoes, we 
can walk with comparative ease up to the limit of 
the trees, and then the snow is so compact that they 
are no longer needed, and as there are few irregular- 
ities in the surface, the walking is better 'than in 
summer. Above the limit of the trees, the railway 
is covered with ice of every fantastic shape, and the 
frame-work of the Gulf tank is now so ornamented 
that one can hardly believe that it is the rude 
structure we see in summer. The Lizzie Bourne 
Monument, which we have been accustomed to see 
only as a rough pile of stones, is now an object of 
architectural beauty, such as no sculptor can carve 
from marble. The engraving represents the monu- 
ment after the frost work had formed on the tablet, 
so that it projected two or three feet. Immediately 
above the monument, the timbers of the trestle are 
completely covered with deposits of frozen mist, 
extending three and four feet horizontally from the 
timber on which the track is laid ; and every piece 
of timber that forms the trestle is ornamented with 
beautiful forms of frost-work, arranged in graceful 




LIZZIB BOUSNE MONUUKNT. 



THE ASCENT OF NOVEMBER 30. 103 

curves where the wind sweeps through the trestle. 
On the summit, the buildings, the piles of rocks and 
stones, so rough in summer, are now completely 
covered with frost, while the snow fills the spaces 
between the jagged rocks. On the sides of the 
buildings toward the northwest the frost has ac- 
cumulated so that now it is more than a foot in^ 
thickness. Whil^ the frost-work on the depot has 
everywhere the same general appearance, the 
points show exactly the direction of the wind as 
it came into every nook and comer of the build- 
ing. The frost on the braces and timbers that ex- 
tend outward seems one triangular mass, and on 
the chains it is often two or three feet in diameter. 
The ascent is not always made when it is mild 
and calm. A person is often deceived ; for although 
pleasant at the base of the mountain, it may be very 
cold, with a strong wind, on the summit. Such was 
the case when the photographers came. 

THE ASCENT OF NOVEMBER 30. 

On the 30th of November, 1870, we started from 
the White Mountain Hous^ for the summit of Mount 
Washington. Our party consisted of Charles B. 
Cheney, of Orford ; A. F. Clough, of Warren ; 
C. F. Bracy, of Warren ; and Howa«d A. Kim- 
ball, of Concord. Our team, a sturdy span. 



104 ASCENT OF MT, WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 

and our vehicle, a stout pung^ we were speedily 
aboard with our luggage and traps, and moving 
onward with buoyant hearts, with the untrodden 
snow to test the mettle of our team. November 
was making its exit in what might be termed a 
lovely winter day ; and the prospect of so choice 
a time to make our ascent — toilsome, at best, at 
this season, and very hazardous except at special 
times of good weather — inspired us with enthu- 
siasm, more and more increased as we approached 
the final reach that stood in defiance of any aid 
which could be rendered by the panting steeds 
that now bore us forward. Plodding on amid in- 
creasing depths of snow, the keen outlook of our 
driver discovered trouble ahead ; when, calling out, 
" O, how stupid not to bring an axe 1 " we looked 
before us to behold our way blocked with trees 
which the wind had hurled directly across the road. 
Falling to work as best we could, we succeeded 
in breaking away limbs underneath the reclining 
trunks, till we had opened a passage, through which, 
after detaching horses, we dragged the pung, and 
then led the team. Our advance found the snow 
deeper and deeper ; yet there seemed no occasion 
to indulge misgivings, for the weather was still all 
we could desire, and there appeared to be sufficient 
time. But at last we came to a new fence of wind- 



CUTTING. THROUGH, 106 

&Ila that positively barred our progress. . It was 
found impossible tJ go on without cutting through, 
and we had nothing to cut with. 

We were now within about a mile and a half of 
Marshfield Depot, the terminus of our convoy. Mr. 
Clough volunteered to walk the rest of the way, 
rally a ** chopper," and return and chop us out. 
This was all duly accomplished ; but it consumed 
some two hours of precious time; and, with the 
previous delay, made our arrival at the depot two 
o'clock in the afternoon, instead of eleven or twelve 
in the forenoon, as it should have been. 

At Marshfield we are three miles from the sum- 
mit, and, at present, all travel over this distance 
must depend solely upon human muscle and energy 
to achieve ; though Mr. Marsh, the president of the 
railway company, says he will yet see it run at all 
seasons of the year. 

" Jim," the wood-choppers' cook, prepared us a 
lunch ; «nd, after duly disposing of this, we held 
"a council of war," and decided to make the ascent 
at once, though there were serious misgivings on 
the part of some of us in view of the near approach 
of nighty when, at this season, half-past two o'clock 
leaves a small margin of the day, at best, for such 
a task as stood before us. However, the weather 
was fine, and we were fired with the promise of 



106 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 

an adventure, amid scenery new and grand, from 
which we had been unwillingly detained several 
days beyond our previous designs. 

THE ASCENT. 

In ascending from this point, we followed the 
railroad track. We were compelled to walk upon 
the ties, for the snow was several feet deep. With 
a sharp upward grade, in some places rising one 
foot in three ; with the ties three feet apart and 
loaded with ice and snow, and built on trestle-work 
over gorges of some twenty-five to thirty feet in 
depth, the careless, eager steps of unbaffled en- 
thusiasm are soon compelled to give place to great 
caution and the constant stress of nerve and muscle. 
It is found impossible to make every foothold sure ; 
hence there come occasional slips and bruises ; and, 
unless one is robust and hardy, the ascent thus soon 
becomes decidedly wearisome and even exhaustive. 

The end of the first mile — carrying uS up to 
within one half mile of the limit of wood-growth — 
found us in tolerable condition ; when a halt for 
breath and observations discovered to us an ap- 
proaching storm lying on the Green Mountains of 
Vermont. It would undoubtedly strike us, but we 
still hoped we might press on and reach the summit 
first. The thought of being overtaken by a furious 
storm on the wintry, shelterless cliffs of Mount 



OUT IN THE STORM. 107 

Washington, with the night about to enshroud us, 
was fearftdly impressive, and prompted us to our 
best endeavors. With all the effort we could well 
muster, we had only advanced a half mile more, 
carrying us fairly above the wooded region to the 
foot of " Jacob's Ladder," when the storm struck 
us. There were suddenly wrapped around us dense 
clouds of frozen vapor, driven so furiously into our 
feces by the raging winds as«to threaten suffocation. 
The cheering repose of the elements but a moment 
before had now given place to what might well be 
felt as the power and hoarse rage of a thousand 
furies ; and the shroud of darkness that was in a 
moment thrown over us was nearly equal to that of 
the moonless night. Compelled to redoubled efforts 
to keep our feet and make proper advance, we 
struggled with the tempest, though with such odds 
against us that we were repeatedly slipping and get- 
ting painful bruises. Mr. Kimball finding himself 
too much exhausted to continue this struggle on the 
track, we all halted in brief consultation. It was 
suggested that we return to Waumbek Station, an 
old building a half mile below us, and there try to 
keep ourselves from freezing by brisk exercise. Mr. 
Clough emphatically vetoed this as a most danger- 
ous and impracticable proposition, saying that our 
only hope consisted in pushing upward with all our 
might. 



108 ASCENT OF MT, WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 

Here we became separated, three of our party 
lef): the track, and Mr. Kimball willingly left behind 
his luggage in order to continue the ascent. By 
thus leaving the track we escaped liability to falls 
and bruises, but found ourselves often getting buried 
to our waists in snow, and forced to exert our ut- 
most strength to drag ourselves out and advance. 
We repeatedly called to Mr. Bracy, who had kept 
on the track, as we supposed, but could get no 
answer. The roar of the tempest overcame our 
utmost vocal efforts ; and the cloud of frozen vapor, 
that lashed us so furiously as it hugged us in its 
chilling embrace, was so dense that no object could 
be seen at a distance of ten paces. 

Against such remorseless blasts no human. being 
could keep integrity of muscle and remain erect. 
We could only go on together a little way and then 
throw ourselves down for a few moments, to re- 
cover breath and strength. We had many times 
repeated this, when Mr. Kimball became so utterly 
exhausted as to make it impossible to take another 
step. He called to the others to leave him and 
save themselves if possible. The noble and em- 
phatic " Never " uttered by the manly Clough, 
whose sturdy muscle was found ample to back his 
will, aroused him to another effort. 

The two stronger gentlemen, whose habits of life 
and superior physical powers gave hope of deliver- 



A HARD STRUGGLE. 109 

ance for themselves, were both immovable in the 
determination that our &te should be one, let that 
be what it must. 

The situation was one of most momentous peril, 
especially as to Mr. Kimball, whose exhaustion was 
now so extreme that he was wholly indifferent to 
the fate that seemed to impend ; only begging that 
he might be left to that sleep from whose embrace 
there was felt no power of resistance. Still there 
was forced a listless drag onward, mostly in the 
interests of his companions and in obedience to 
their potent wills. After this sort we struggled 
on, a few rods at a time, falling together, between 
each effort, to rest and gain new strength. At each 
halt Messrs. Clongh and Cheney used their best 
endeavors by pounding and rubbing Mr. Kimball's 
feet and limbs, and in various other ways endeav- 
ored to promote circulation and prevent freezing. 

The last saving device was supplied by a cord 
which we chanced to have. At one end of this 
was made a noose, which was placed in Mr. Kim- 
ball's hand, while the other end was passed over the 
shoulder of Mr. Clough who tugged along in ad- 
vance, while Mr. Cheney helped at his side. Most 
of the last mile was accomplished in this manner. 

With the wind at seventy miles per hour, and the 
thermometer down to 7^, as was found after' arriv- 
ing at the Observatory, we came at length to 



110 ASCENT OF MT, WASHINGTON IN WINTER, 

" Lizasie Bourne's Monument," only thirty rods 
from the Observatory. One of our party shouted 
an exultant hurrah at the glad sight of this rude 
pile which was erected to commemorate the sad 
fate of one who was overtaken by the darkness and 
bewildering fogs and chills of a rude October night. 
" Then," in the words of the eloquent Starr King, 
** was the time to feel the meaning of that pile of 
stones, which tells where Miss Bourne, overtaken by 
night and fog and exhausted by cold, breathed out 
her life into the bleak cloud." 

It took more than a half hour's time to make this 
last thirty rods. Even the stronger ones had be- 
come wearied by their unusual exertions, and had 
this not been the case, their progress would have 
been slow, for it was found absolutely impossible to 
force on the one who had now become unable to 
regard his own peril, more than a few feet at a 
time. He would then sink down into a deep sleep, 
while the others would employ the time in chafing 
his hands and feet, and after a few moments man- 
age to arouse him and make another struggle on- 
ward.^ 

1 So utterly exhausted was our friend that his reason tottered, and 
he speculated as to the methods by which his dead body should be 
carried down to his friends, and seemed to be anxious to make the 
necessary arrangements beforehand; and the prospect of another mon- 
ument was certainly very promising. This idea also furnished him 
with words, as he insisted that his untimely end would attract many 



THE SUMMIT REACHED. HI 

From Lizzie Bourne's Monument to the summit 
Mr. Elimball was mostly insensible to passing events, 
and only awoke to clear consciousness, as from a 
dream, to find himself in bed in a comfortable room 
in the Observatory building, safe from the dreadful 
tempest, and owing his life to the unyielding devo- 
tion of these brave men who scorned to save them- 
selves at the expense of a comrade left to perish. 

We were very glad to find on our arrival that 
Mr. Bracy, who had got separated from us during 
our earlier struggles, had got in about seven o'clock ; 
our own arrival being at half past seven ; he having 
kept on the track. 

Thus at least three hours of this ascent were 
made amid the darkness of a moonless night, in 
the howling tempest, the horrors of which will be 
more readily appreciated when it is remembered 
that a wind of forty-five miles per hour blew 
down buildings and uprooted trees in New York 
city. Twenty-five miles added, make a most fear- 
iul hurricane. We were abundantly supplied with 
nourishment on our ascent, chiefly in the form of 
a strong decoction of tea, of which we occasionally 
partook. This is found to be by far the most 

yisitors to the lonely spot, and be the means of enriching the hotel 
and the railroad the following summer. Also when being carried 
through the entrance to the Observatory, he thought himself falling 
down some steep place, and begged the others to save him. CL U. H. 



112 ASCENT OF MT, WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 

potent and effective stimulant that can be used in 
such conditions of extreme exposure. 

Mr. Bracy, too, had a narrow escape. Losing his 
foothold on the track, he at one time fell through, 
into a gorge beneath the trestle-work. Exhausted, 
^bruised, and discouraged, he crawled beneath the 
ruins of the old " Gulf House," which were found 
to be at hand, thinking he would try to weather 
the storm there ; but finding himself, in spite of 
every effort, getting numb and dozy, he rallied to a 
new struggle, and thus saved himself. 

Mr. Huntington, aroused by the arrival of Mr. 
Bracy, sallied out with a lantern in search of us, but 
found his best exertions of little avail, the storm be- 
ing so fierce and thick he could neither make him- 
self seen nor heard beyond a few paces ; and they 
were regarding us as probably lost, though preparing 
for another effort in our behalf, when we arrived. 

A sleepless night gave place, at length, to a day 
thick and stormy. And for-several days the clouds 
gathered densely around us and the storm con- 
tinued its rage ; during which we were recovering 
from " the wear and tear " of our adventures and 
recruiting for the work in store for us. 

THE ASCENT OF FEBRUARY EIGHTH. 

An ascent without great difficulty was made on 
the 8th of February, by Mr. Luther L. Holden, of 



THE FIRST NEWSPAPER AeN. 118 

the *• Boston Daily Journal," and Mr. P. B. Cogs- 
well, of the " Concord Daily Monitor." As they 
were the first newspaper men ever upon the sum- 
mit of Mount Washington, in mid winter, an ac- 
count of their tour^ will not fail to be interesting : — 

^^ Mr. Hmitington informed us that it was magnificent 
weather that morning at the summit, and that we could 
not have selected, apparently, a better day for the trip. 
He knew better than to promise us good weather all the 
way through, however, for the changes about the moun- 
tains, and especially at the summit, are sometimes very 
sudden and unexpected. In a few minutes our prepara- 
tions for the upward journey were completed, for they 
comprised nothing more than the buckling on of knap- 
saecks, the putting on of buffalo overshoes and the grasp- 
ing of AlpeuHstocks. The latter is an almost indispen- 
sable assistant in mountain climbing in the winter. We 
had brought snowHshoes for use through the woods if 
necessary, but we found they could as well be left be- 
hind. As for overcoats, we strapped them upon our 
knapsacks or disposed of them as best wo could, for the 
exertion of the walk was likely to keep us warm enough 
until we got near the top, and so it certainly proved. 
Our party, four in number, left the base of the moun- 
tain at a quarter past ten o'clock. No travellers ever 
had safer, surer, more experienced, or more intelligent 
guides than we two newspaper men could boast of. 
We had received ample directions in regard to the as- 
cent in case we undertook it alone, but with two such 

S 



114 ASCENT OF MT, WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 

able guides as Mr. Huntington and Mr. Clough, we 
certainly could not go amiss. Here let me add that no 
person ought attempt the ascent of Mount Washington 
in winter unless he is blessed with more than conmion 
physical strength and hardihood, for although under 
fevorable circumstances and with good weather (which 
means the absence of adverse winds more than anything 
else), the trip may be accomplished safely enough, and, 
in truth, with greater ease than in summer, yet the sad- 
den and severe changes liable to occur are in themselves 
dangerous, while physical exhaustion in any case might 
lead to serious results. There have been two instances, 
at least, the present season, where persons have become 
so exhausted in climbing the mountain that they could 
not have proceeded without aid from others, while death 
would have ensued had they been abandoned. On one 
occasion a young man became so fatigued and so be- 
numbed with cold, that his companions were compelled 
to carry him a considerable part of the way. The sad 
deaths of poor Lizzie Bourne and Benjamin Chandler, 
one of whom perished on the mountain side in Septem- 
ber, 1855, and the other in August, 1856, and the terri- 
ble adventure of Dr. Benjamin L. Ball, who narrowly 
escaped death from exposure in October, 1855, are sol- 
emn reminders of the dangers of mountain 'climbing. 

" As we were sure to occupy several hours in the as- 
cent, we took a light lunch to refresh us on the way, and 
proper restoratives, the chief of which was a plentiful 
supply of the beverage " that cheers but not inebriates " 
— cold tea. A flask of strong tea is more efficadous 



UPWARD. 115 

than a flask of brandy in reviving and refreshing ex- 
hausted nature upon a mountain tramp, although it is 
well enough to take along the latter for emergencies. 
For a little way up the mountain we took a winding 
path through which timber is hauled, but soon struck 
the railway, alongside or upon which we kept the re- 
mainder of the distance. The snow in the woods was 
from two to three feet in depth, and the crust was suffi- 
ciently hard to bear our weight, except in places where 
we might sink through at the side of a log or in the 
bushes. In most places we could easily walk over the 
low bushes, and also upon getting above the line of tall 
trees it was found an easy matter to travel over the belt 
of stunted, scrubby trees, wjiich surrounds the mountain 
and marks the limit of arborescent growth. These trees 
are so thick that in summer they form impenetrable bar- 
riers, compelling the pedestrian to keep to the railway 
track, or to the old Fabyan bridle-path. Farther on, 
the rocks are for the most part covered with snow, the 
crevices being filled so completely that there are few 
irregularities in the surface. In short, the rough places 
are made smooth, — in not a few instances a trifle too 
smooth, — for the way is, at some points, very steep. In 
a few places the snow lies drifted over the railway, but 
along the line of high trestle work at Jacob's Ladder, 
and for the most part above, the snow had blown from 
the top, so that easy locomotion was found for some of 
OS over the sleepers. Before we had reached the 
Waumbek Junction, a slight snow squall struck us, 
and we could see that there was a storm in the neigh- 



116 ASCENT OF MT. WASHINGTON IN WINTER. 

borhood of the Notch. This, however, was no impedi- 
ment to our onward progress. As we had occasion to 
rest quite frequently, we had ample opportunity to stop 
and admire the glorious panorama which was gradually 
unfolded behind Us. After getting above Jacob's Ladder 
we found that the wind, which was blowing from the 
south or southwest, was quite strong, and by the time 
we reached the Great Gulf we were in the midst of a 
ftirious snow-storm. As we entered the snow doud 
the country below was shut out from our view, and we 
could not see a great distance in any direction, although 
the cloud was not very dense. The frost work on the 
Lizzie Bourne monument, which had been very beauti- 
frd at times, had for the most part disappeared in the re- 
cent thaws and ftuious wind-storms.'' 

" We arrived at the summit at 2.45 p. m., having occu- 
pied four and a half hours in the ascent. By ^ taking it 
easy ' en route, we reached the end of our journey very 
slightly fatigued. Sergeant Smith and Mr. Nelson, 
Mr. Huntington's companions in exile, gave us a warm 
welcome, and we were soon snugly ensconced under the 
depot roof. Upon our arrival it was ascertained that 
the wind was blowing at the rate of forty-five miles an 
hour, while the thermometer indicated 13° above zero." 

Since we began our preparations for the winter, 
over fifty persons, including members of the party, 
have been on the mountain, and the number of as- 
cents made amount to more than a hundred, seven- 
teen having been made by myself, and not a single 



NO SERIOUS ACCIDENTS. 



IIT 



accident that has proved serious has happened to 
any one, although before we began to go up and 
down, there was probably scarcely one person in a 
hundred but that would have considered a trip to 
the summit of Mount Washington in mid-winter, 
even in the most &yorable weather, a perilous 
undertaking. 





CHAPTER Vn. 

A LOOK NORTHWARD, AND EASTWARD. 



P all the valleys that radiate from this group 
of mountains, that of Israel's River is the 
broadest. By following a line a little west 
of north we look directly down upon this valley 
with its broad, open fields, row covered with a 
white mantle of snow. Where a point of woods 
penetrates this open area, it looka like a headland 
jutting into a frozen lake ; but the deception is not 
perfect, for we can see a road running through the 
entire length of this open space, and it crosses 
Bome of these points ; besides, houses are distinctly 
viable along the entire length of the valley. A 
little to the left of this valley, and westward, are 
the hills of Whitefield, and beyond is Dalton Moun- 
tain, from which there is such a fine view of the 
whole White Mountain range. In Lancaster wo 
see Mount Prospect and Mount Pleasant ; along the 
base of these is a line of snow, which is now brill- 
iant from reflected light. Westward s^ll, and 
stretching northward along the Connecticut, are the 



TOWARDS QUEBEC. 119 

Lunenburg Hills, so famous as a point from which to 
view the mountains ; and beyond, so far away are 
the hills, when there is the least haze in the atmos- 
phere we can hardly distinguish their outline, and 
the snow which covers them " wells into the atmos- 
phere, as it were, and dies away in the heavens like 
the indistinct outline of a bright but partially re- 
membered dream." 

TOWAEDS PERCY PEAKS AND NORTHWARD TO QUE- 
BEC PROVINCE. 

North of JeflFerson is the Pilot Range, with its 
wooded summits. Looking down upon it, every 
ridge is sharply defined ; and there are Percy Peaks, 
now so purely white, and almost as distinct as they 
appear from the road along the upper Ammonoo- 
suc ; and beyond are the mountains in Stratford ; 
that sharp point rising above the other peaks is 
Sugarloaf Mountain. But we can look far, far be- 
yond, for we can see Owl's Head in Canada ; and 
although so far away its outline is sharply defined 
as it stands solitary and alone. 

A LOOK INTO THE GREAT GULF. 

Looking almost directly north, we look down 
into the Great Gulf between Mount Washington 
and Mount Adams. We cannot see far down, as 
we stand here; suppose we walk down as far as 



120 A LOOK NORTHWARD AND EASTWARD. 

the Gulf House, and then just a step will bring 
us to the very border of this immense gulf. Just 
above the point where we stand, the whole side 
of the mountain is one sheet of ice, and there is 
some where we stand, so we have to be very 
cautious in our movements, for we are upon the 
very brink of a precipice hundreds of feet in 
height. The snow which has blown over into the 
gulf covers now in part the ragged, jutting rocks 
that form the abrupt precipice at the head of this 
great chasm, yet still enough protrude to give to it 
a picturesque grandeur, especially when the rays of 
the sun fall aslant its rugged slope. The peaks of 
Jefferson and Adams seem mountains of them- 
selves, even above the point where we stand, for 
they are between two and three hundred feet higher 
than the gap south of Mount Clay. Adding to 
this the depths below, and remembering that Mount 
Washington is nearly five hundred feet higher than 
Mount Adams, and you have some conception of the 
awful grandeur of the scene, and you will no longer 
wonder why we run some risk by standing here. 
The depths below with their dark shadows, and the 
heights above gleaming in the bright sunlight, are 
enchantment enough to draw one to the very verge 
of these precipitous heights. If in summer it is 
one of the grandest spectacles Mount Washington 
affords, words certainly fail to give an adequate 



^ 



MOUNTAINS AND LAKES. 121 

description of it in winter, whether we see it when 
the morning sun shines into it from the east, — at 
noon, when the sun scarcely reaches its lowest 
depths, — or late in the afternoon when far down it 
seems almost night, although the mountain-peaks 
are all aglow with light, — or watch the clouds as 
they pour over into it from the west. 

UP THE ANDROSCOGGIN AHH MAGALLOW^Y. 

Returning to the summit of Mount Washington, 
we follow up the valley of the Androscoggin, and 
look dowm upon the breadth of sombre forests stretch- 
ing northward towards Lake Umbagog, which is 
now so distinct, though thirty or forty miles away. 
West of Umbagog is Mount Dustan, and north is the 
rounded summit of Escahos, with its breadth of 
snow. Beyond is the wilderness along the Magal- 
loway ; and that mountain so precipitous on its 
eastern slope is Mount Carmel, on the line between 
New Hampshire and Maine ; and northward still is 
the blue outline of the mountains in Quebec Prov- 
ince. To the east of the line just indicated we 
look down the Peabody River to the valley of the 
Androscoggin, and when we feel as though we were 
out of the world we take our glass and watch the 
trains on the Grand Trunk Railway. Beyond 
Gorham and Shelburne we see the hills and moun- 
tains of Maine, and conspicuous among them is 
Katahdin, which stands " regal and alone." 



1^ A LOOK NORTHWARD AND EASTWARD. 

see the road is nearly five thousand feet below us, 
and we see also the immense gorge of Tuckerman's 
Ravine ; but we cannot see far into its depths, so we 
will walk down to its very border, for we are sure 
of being repaid for all our toil. We will go to the 
point of rocks on the north side, a mile below the 
head of the ravine ; we have stood here before ; 
then there was only one bright spot of snow, and 
above it the thouss^id streams glittered in the 
bright sunlight ; but now winter reigns supreme. 
The whiteness along the bottom of the ravine is 
relieved by the tree-tops, protruding above the 
snow, besides the jutting rocks and crags are brown 
and bare, and the shadows fall over the cliffs oppo- 
site. But there is a gleam of light from the Thou- 
sand Streams ; for where they have poured over the 
head of the ravine they are fixed in ice columns of 
gigantic proportions, and they are of wondrous 
beauty; they extend almost entirely across the 
ravine, and we can hardly believe that they have 
been formed fi'om a few trickUng streams, for one 
might suppose that a mighty cataract had there 
been suddenly congealed. Later in the season we 
shall find that the snow extends almost up to the 
point where the streams first leap over the precipi- 
tous rocks. We have hardly time to-day to look 
down on Hermit Lake, only a white spot now 
among the trees, or to follow the valley below ; and 



A GRAND PANORAMA, 126 

much less to walk down so that we can see the 
path the avalanche has made ; for there was at some 
time not very remote an avalanche just north of the 
ravine, which bent or broke off the trees along a 
path many rods in width. We should like to walk 
north along this plateau, and to look into the deep 
ravines along its border, but we must return to the 
summit. Here half way up we will sit down and 
rest. As we view the grandeur of the scene, we 
almost forget our weariness. Just there, fashioned 
in beautiful symmetry, is Pequawket, now a snowy 
cone, tinged with opalescent light. Beyond, in 
Maine, is Mount Pleasant, with its triangular area 
of mountains ; and there is Sebago Lake, and be- 
yond the harbor of Portland, and the point of land 
running out into the sea on which stands Fort 
Preble. This grand panorama need only once be 
seen to remain ever after " a new and glorious fur- 
niture of the mind." 





CHAPTER Vin. 

A LOOK 80DTHWABD AMD WBaTWAED. 

^^MS. PERSON who -has not been accnstomed to 
^^SH mountain heights might suppose that whea 
'^^^*^ ' it is clear we can see as well in one direo- 
tiuQ as another. But to-day it may he remarkably 
dear in the north, and yet quite hazy in the south ; 
or clear in the west, and yet in the east qvqtj- 
thing may be uidistinct. So it may be many 
dayg before the best views, embracing the whole 
horizon,' can be obtained. It is very rare that the 
atmosphere is as clear southward as in other direc- 
tions, especially in the distance ; but sometimes 
within a range of sixty miles every lake and moun- 
t^n is remarkably distinct, and the picturesque 
beauty of the scene compensates for distance. 
Look down the valley of Ellis River, its wooded 
sides slope almost down to the stream. Below is 
the valley of the Saco, with its broad intervales, and 
there is Cjjfiway, guarded by noble mountains. To 
the west is Mote Mountain, with its sweeping out- 
line, and Chocorua with its sharp, snowy peaks sur- 



WINNIPISEOGEE. 127 

rounded by forests of fir. When at evening it 
glows with light rose tints, crimson and gold, it has 
a beauty peculiar to itself, and with eager eyes we 
watch the lingering light until it fades into the 
night. 

TOWARDS LAKB WINNIPISEOGEE. 

But for another day there is still reserved a vis- 
ion of beauty that cannot fail to fascinate, even 
those who are insensible to the ordinary charms of 
nature. It is the view embracing Lake Winnipis- 
eogee audits immediate surroundings. Now that 
the lake is covered with ice, how it gleams in the 
bright sunlight ; how distinct its islands and jutting 
headlands ; and then the light on the hills, so rich 
in purple tints. The whole scene is of such minute- 
ness, yet so vast, that we stand in wonder, attracted 
as though by some great enchantment. 

" Ah ! that such beauty, varying in the light 
Of living nature, cannot be portrayed 
By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill ; 
But it is the property of Him alone 
Who hath beheld it." 

Southward still is Mount Belknap with its double 
peak ; and Copple Crown is distinct, but beyond the 
haze gives only dim outlines. So long has our at- 
tention been directed southward, we haJ almost for- 
gotten that we are standing on the summit of Mount . 



128-1 LOOK SOUTHWARD AND WESTWARD. 

Washington, and that we are isolated from the 
world below on which we have been looking so 
intently. ^ 

WESTWARD DOWN THE VALLEY OF THE 

AMMONOOSUO. 

One who has viewed the grand panorama that is 
spread out before the beholder who stands on the 
summit of Mount Washington, only through the 
haze of a summer's day, can hardly imagine the 
grandeur of the scene as it appears on a clear day 
in mid winter. Would you not like to see it ? 
Then go with me, for to-day it is so mild and pleas- 
ant that we cannot stay within doors. The sun 
shines brightly; above, the sky is intensely blue, 
and in the zenith it deepens even into purple. 
Such a sky is seen only at high altitude, and there 
only when the atmosphere is free from all impuri- 
ties. We will stand upon the highest point of the 
mountain, — no, this will not do, we cannot see 
westward. On the Tip -top House the view is 
better, but the roof is steep. Can we walk up? 
Certainly, for the frost adheres to the roof, so we 
have a secure footing. Now we can go no higher ; 
but this is all we could wish. To-day, so clear and 
transparent is the atmosphere, that space seems half 
annihilated. Instead of one vast mantle of white, 
as we might have expected, the variety of colors is 



THE FORESTS. 129 

greater even than in summer ; and the shadows, — 
could any artist desire anything more grand ? Be- 
fore us is the valley of the Ammonoosuc, with its 
gray forests of deciduous trees, and we can follow 
the line which runs along the range that ends in 
Mount Deception, which separates this forest from 
that of the evergreen which crowns the summit of 
the ridge. There in the valley is a white spot, it is 
the Twin River Farm ; and below is another, that 
is the intervale, where stood the Fabyan House. 

LAFAYETTE, WITH ITS RIDGES AND NEIGHBORING 

PEAKS. 

But look beyond ; how sharp in outline is each 
ridge, as the sun strikes upon them and throws the 
shadows westward ; but above all these ridges rises 
Lafayette, grand in its canopy of snow ; but now 
its sterner features are softened by a glow of rose- 
tinted, amber light. South rises a peak symmetri- . 
cal in outline, its pointed summit so pure, that for 
anything to touch it, except those beautiful rays of 
sunlight, would destroy the charm with which it is 
now invested. Has it a name ? Certainly ; they 
call it Haystack. What a name for a mountain of 
such grand and noble proportions ! How poetical I 
Can the name be found in any book on rhythm ? 
If Indian names are exhausted, let us at least have 
a respectable English name for peaks that are so 

9 



130 A LOOK SOUTHWARD AND WESTWARD. 

prominent Beyond, and a little to the soath, is 
Moosilauke. Here we have, thanks to Mr. Will- 
iam Little of Manchester, an Indian name sub- 
stituted for a most inappropriate English name 
Moosehillock ; for hillock is a small hill; and moose 
are not apt to climb bare summits. A mountain 
nearly five thousand feet high deserves something 
better than to be called a small hill. " Broad- 
shouldered " it is, its crest having been rounded by 
the glaciers that came from the north ; and grand is 
the panorama seen from its summit. Westward, in 
Vermont, is the whole line of the Green Mountains, 
Camel's Hump and the long line of Mount Mans- 
field being white with snow. 

^ TOWARDS THE NOTCH. 

Looking a little south of the line above indicated, 
we follow the range that runs towards the Notch. 
How the peaks glitter in the bright sunlight; for 
the light snow has all blown over into the ravines, 
and the Notch seems so near that we feel almost 
like taking a walk to view there the winter scene. 
Beyond is Mount Willey, and a ridge from thence 
stretches southward to Carragain, a noble mountain, 
with precipitous cliffs and deep gorges on either 
side, and so far from the haunts of men that its 
summit is rarely pressed by human footsteps, and 
grand on account of its very solitude. To the west 



THE SHADOWS. 131 

is the valley of the east branch of the Pemigewas- 
set ; we can see to-day the ridges on the south, that 
reach down to the stream itself, each one atmost 
as sharp and distinct in outline as if we were at 
their verjr base. Southward from Carrigain, peak 
follows peak until the range ends in a point south 
of Osceola. To follow round the whole horizon 
and study the scene that is spread out before us 
would take several days. One feature more of the 
scene that is particularly striking we will notice 
here, namely, the shadows as they fall aslant the 
sides of the mountains or across the deep valleys. 
On account of the snow and the transparency of 
the atmosphere, not to say anything of the length- 
ened shadows of winter, they are much more notice- 
able than in summer. On Monroe, Franklin, and 
Pleasant, there is the most beautiful rose- tint, just 
over the border ; the dark shadows of the mountains 
fall on the snow where the light streams through 
the deep ravines, and, as the sun climbs higher, we 
watch the shadows "until the sunlight flashes down 
the sides of the mountains. 




CHAPTER IX. 




\ 



PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

S photography has got to be so common in 
every-day life, and so necessary to the fall 
success of every expedition of importance, 
its omission on the present occasion would have 
been a great oversight, and have left the prac- 
tical results of the expedition but half complete. 
It is the province of the photographer to bring 
to the eyes of the public that which is not of a 
readily accessible character; thus to give those 
who cannot visit such places a chance to see won- 
ders and beauties, while they enjoy the comforts of 
home, enduring none of the perils, dangers, or hard- 
ships, which are necessary to get at the real. 

Though the pictures can convey to the mind but 
a small portion of the real grandeur of the scenes 
.as beheld by the eye, they nevertheless have a 
fascinating beauty that charms and gives a sense 
of sublimity to the lover of nature, in her varied 
forms. 

The photographer who makes nature his study, 



FIRST VIE W OF FROST WORK. 188 

with a view to reproduce her various charms, soon 
becomes an enthusiast, and is ready to brave almost 
any hardship or danger in order to secure the like- 
ness of a gem or " bit." A musical waterfall, or 
thundering cataract, a peaceful vale where the flocks 
graze in quiet security, the wild mountain crag 
where the eagle screams its shrill notes, a tropical 
bower where perpetual summer brings forth rich 
and continuous verdure, and the bartren, desolate 
mountain peaks of snow and frost towering far 
above the clouds ; they will all afford some subject 
for the Knight of the Camera to " bang away at," 
and from which to bear off a trophy that shall de- 
light " the millions," and fittingly reward the enthu- 
siam of the true artist, and also line his pocket 
with " greenbacks," 

October of 1864 was the first time I ever beheld 
the beauty of the frost-work upon the mountains. 
It was on the occasion of a visit to Moosilauke ; 
and my attempts to photograph it were frustrated 
by the storm, as I was not prepared for any lengthy 
stay or proper effort. I visited it again the next 
year, but failed from the same cause ; and not until 
the year of 1869, when Mr. Huntington and myself 
•made arrangements to spend the winter up amongst 
storms and clouds, did I meet with anything like 
success. 

"When we first proposed to make that mountain 



134 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON- 

our home for the winter, it had become late in the 
season, and the mountains were already covered 
with snow. Provisions and fuel had to be got up, 
whidh was no easy task, where but few had any 
sympathy for us, and fewer still were willing to 
help, while a larger share were ready to raise all 
sorts of " bugbears " not calculated to inspire us 
with confidence in anything like success. The idea 
of photographing under such adverse circumstances 
wanted something of the proper stimulus ; but still 
I determined to try it, believing the more obstacles 
overcome the greater the satisfaction, so long as it 
proposed only a bloodless offering. 

When so many of the craft fail, with every con- 
venience at hand, and with every requisite for pro- 
ducing good work, it should not be expected that 
uniform success could be met with where every 
convenience is wanting, in the matter of materials, 
and where nature has opposed serious obstacles ; 
but, with a full appreciation of the troubles to be 
met and overcome, I was determined to try until 
my chemicals or myself froze up ; so with my traps 
lashed on a hand-sled, we toiled up the mountain 
of 5,000 feet, walking on snow-shoes. It was a 
hard task, but was accomplished in good time ; and 
though my success was not always complete, it 
served to show what might be done with proper 
will and perseverance, even in extremities. 



ANTICIPATIONS. 136 

This experience was of value, and many of the 
views taken were of interest ; and I may say that 
some of them have never been surpassed for 
beauty. 

When on a clear day we could see the glistening 
summit of Mount Washington, we often asked our- 
selves the question, " Shall we next winter occupy 
the top of that mountain ? " And I think that it 
was as ftilly settled in our minds then as at any 
time after, if the necessary funds could be raised. 
In this expedition we paid our own expenses, ex- 
cepting what a few of the citizens of the town of 
Warren gave by assisting us to get up wood, and 
one other man who gave some money. So we had 
most of the glory to ourselves. 

When it was determined to make the effort to 
occupy Mount Washington, I felt that it was to be 
a hazardous job ; but was ready and willing to do 
the best I could, and made all necessary prepara- 
tions; had all chemicals, apparatus, etc., that could 
be forwarded, packed and sent up by the railroad ; 
yet there were many things that could not be safely 
sent up in that way, as there was to be some lapse 
of time between the arrival of 'them and the time 
of the commencement of the occupation. As it is 
winter weather there in October, many things that 
would spoil ijiust be taken up at the time of the 
final ascent. 



136 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON. 

In the interim Mr. Kimball, of Concord, N. H., 
proposed to the Head of the expedition, to go as 
photographer, not knowing that I was to occupy 
that place. He was referred to me, when we soon 
made satisfactory arrangements to have him ac- 
company me ; and from his Diary kept while on 
the mountain, a part of which will complete this 
chapter, will be found some of the more minute 
details of our work while there. 

We made the ascent on the afternoon of No- 
vember 30 ; a time that will not be soon forgot- 
ten by the parties. Mr. Kimball's narrow escape 
from death on that night, will ever be a thrill- 
ing epoch in his life, as well as in that of some 
friends who accompanied us. Shut in the folds of 
a dense cloud, the wind sweeping across the barren 
frozen waste at a hurricane speed, and the darkness 
of night gathering fast around us while we were a 
long way from the top, and our friend sinking, down 
exhausted, begging to have us leave him and save 
ourselves, and when told it was sure death, firmly 
accepting what he deemed inevitable, all made it 
a time that would try the nerves of the most reso- 
lute ; but to leave him was as remote from our 
thoughts as anything could be ; so we abandoned 
everything to save him; and, by taking him al- 
most by main force, we could get him up a few 
steps at a time, when we were obliged to let him 



THE FIBST SUNRISE. 137 

rest, and we ourselves were glad to take a re- 
spite. By two hours hard and unremitting toil, we 
got to the top, and brought our man in safety ; 
though he says he has no distinct recollection of 
the last part of the journey. 

He was not frozen, but completely exhausted. 
We were all pretty well exhausted, but soon re- 
covered. "With the wind blowing at the rate of 
seventy miles an hour, and the thermometer nearly 
at zero, there can be but a small amount of pleasure 
in climbing a mountain at night in a storm cloud. 
There is truly nothing but extreme hardship and 
hazard. 

Herewith is a part of Mr. Kimball's Diary, kept 
while on the mountain ; and as it was written at the 
time when the events were fresh in the mind, it will 
be more interesting than anything I can write re- 
garding our work. A. F. Clough. 

Monday, Decembeb 5, 1871. 

FIBST day's work AT PHOTOGRAPHING ON MOUNT 

WASHINGTON. 

Mr. Huntington called us early this morning to 
see the sun rise out of the ocean. It was a grand 
sight, not soon to be forgotten. It was several 
minutes after he came in sight before he was, as it 
seemed, out of the ocean, and he looked much larger 
to me than ever before, and did not dazzle the eyes 



138 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON. 

as lie usually does. We concluded to avail our- 
selves of the fair weather, and commence our series 
of views at once ; so we regulated chemicals and 
instruments as soon as possible, and comidenced 
operations immediately. After breakfast, Mr. 
H.„ang.„n ,u«ed d.™ U,, »oun.i«n o. bi. way 
to Littleton, for the purpose of repairing the tele- 
graph wire, which we hoped soon to have iiv- work- 
ing order. An extract from my Diary reads : " The 
day is beautiful, we are perfectly comfortable out- 
side without overcoats, and on the east side of thei 
Observatory the frost is thawing quite rapidly. 
Thermometer 22^." 

We have succeeded in making some very good 
views, but not as large a variety as we intend to 
have before we complete our winter's work. Our 
first was looking east, with the Glen stable in the 
foreground. It is a pretty cloud view, showing as 
it does, grand masses of silvery, cumulus clouds, 
as they pour down over mounts Monroe and 
Franklin, over Tuckerman's Ravine, and down 
through the Glen. Another gives a fine view of 
the Carter Range of mountains, and in the fore- 
ground the Glen and Alpine stables, two buildings 
a few rods below the summit of the mountain, which 
are now covered with beautiful frost-work several 
feet thick, as is everything on the top of the moun- 
tain. We have also made three negatives of clouds, 



CLOUDS. 139 

which were at least half a mile below us. They 
resemble the waves on the ocean, only the cloud 
waves are in some places twenty or thirty miles 
long. They pass over a range of mountains, and 
take a long sweep across the valleys, and then rise 
over the mountains on the opposite side ; and, a3 a 
general thing, after passing over and coming down 
on the other side, they break up in small clusters, 
resembling, on a grand scale, the surf from breaking - 
waves. We have made some photographs of this, 
but they give only a limited idea of the grandeur 
of the captivating view thus spread out beneath us. 
All these. clouds move rapidly from the southwest, 
probably at a velocity of forty miles an hour, while 
on this summit it blows generally from the north- 
west. We have made a view which shows a small 
portion of a remarkable cloud effect, or phenome- 
non. It was like a parallel belt on the distant hor- 
izon, whose circuit must have been more than a 
thousand miles. It resembled the tire to an im- 
mense cart-wheel (we occupying the place for the 
hub), which was beyond, and encircled all the lakes, 
mountains, etc. It was even beyond Mount Katah- 
din. At the south its upper edge was parallel 
with the point farthest north. At noon it appears 
to be approaching us as a centre, and as it nears us 
it breaks up in magnificent great thunder heads, 
minus the thunder. All this time our view is be- 



140 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT, WASHINGTON. 

coming more limited. Now we look over to Mount 
Washington's younger brother, Mount Adams, cov- 
ered with clouds, with the exception of the top, 
which looms up like a mighty Titan, scorning to 
have a cloud-veil thrown so soon over his majestic 
head. The sun responds to the royal endeavor, and 
se^ds a shower of his warm beams down on the 
bleak summit, standing up alone to our view, a bright 
little island white with snow, as pure as the purest 
velvet, in a rough silvery ocean of clouds. All 
this time it was snowing below, but we knew noth- 
ing of it until to-night. Our view of the surround- 
ing mountains lasts only a short time longer, for 
we see to the west thick, heavy clouds, marching 
upon us, and by four o'clock we become densely 
shrouded. We cannot see the Tip-top House from 
the observatory, not many feet distant. 

Sergeant Stnith made his connections with bat- 
teries and cables, and we hope soon to be in com- 
munication with the world below. 

Last night we discovered a new boarder, in the 
form of a sable. He must like well, for we make 
Uberal waste for his sake. I suppose in passing 
over the mountain he scented our larder, and was 
attracted by the prospect of a nice dinner. We 
hope to see more of the sly little fellow. We shall 
feed him like a prince. I hope he won't kill our 
mice, for it is pleasant to know there is animal life 



. THROWN DOWN BY WIND. 141 

. near us, if nothing more than a poor little " var- 
mint " of a mouse. 

While making a negative to-day, a crow flew 
past me. He seemed in haste, and so did not stop 
to sit for his picture, which I would gladly have 
made. 

Thursday^ December 29, 1870. This morning 
I went out to see if we could make some negatives 
during the day. I had barely got out, when the 
wind swept me, with resistless force, away from our 
entrance or door, and I only saved myself from the 
rude handling and probable bruising, by catching 
the chain which passed over the building. It 
hurled me with such power as to swing me in to- 
ward the depot into a snow drift, which was much 
better than to have been swept upon the rocks cov- 
ered with the frost feathers. How was I to face 
such a wind and get back? I tried jgeveral times, 
each time carried back by the force of the wind, the 
velocity of which, at times, must have been as high 
as seventy miles an hour, but not steadily thus. 
There were lulls when it did not reach more than 
forty miles an hour, and in one of these I crawled 
back on " all fours," and got into the Observatory, 
determined to stay there as long as the wind blew 
so furiously ; and we have decided, without much 
question, that it will be impossible to make a photo- 
graph to-day. 



142 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON 

I 

The day is clear and cold. To look out of the . 
window it seems very inviting, but it is like the ap- 
ples of Sodom, fair to look upon but " bad to take." 
The wind has been increasing all day. At seven 
A. M., observations : velocity of wind forty-six miles 
an hour ; two p. m., fifty-seven miles ; four p. m., 
seventy-two miles ; at seven p. m., forty-six miles, 
and at nine p. m., nearly calm. A great change in 
fourteen hours, especially in the last two hours. 
Barometer has fallen rapidly all day. 

Friday^ December 30, 1870. The morning is 
calm, clear, and beautiful. It is what we have 
waited a month for. • We commenced work on our 
chemicals at daylight, warming and filtering our 
baths, suitably tempering developer, etc., and heat- 
ing all our instruments, to drive the moisture from 
them ; putting our dark room in order, and melting 
ice for watei^to use in washing negatives. We 
commenced making negatives at sunrise. Experi- 
enced great difficulty, in exposing the sensitized 
plate, to avoid the destruction of the film by freez- 
ing. We carried the plate in a warm woollen 
blanket, but this could only serve in carrying. . As 
soon as the plate was put in the camera from the 
warm blanket, it would raisie a cloud of vapor from 
the moisture inside, which would congeal on the 
plate and inside of the camera, and give the inside 
lenses of the tubes the appearance of ground glass, 



WINTER VISITS. 148 

which of course would prevent the landscapes be- 
ing imaged upon the plate. Our only resort was 
to keep the plate and holder only a few degrees 
warmer than the camera. Then putting our plate 
into the camera, exposing, taking it from the cam- 
era, and carrying it under protection of the heat of 
the body and coat, developing as soon as possible, 
success crowned our efforts. We were from two 
to five seconds in taking the plate-holder from its 
shelter under our coats, fixing it in the camera, lift- 
ing slide, exposing and- returning plate to shelter. 
If we delayed in the least, the negative would be 
frozen and thus spoiled. 

In the morning we made a few eight by ten 
negatives ; but as we were making the last of them, 
the wind freshened up, and we could not make as 
many as we wished. The camera presented a large 
surface to the wind, and was very decidedly shaken. 
We could not have had a much better day for our 
work. In the morning there was not a cloud to be 
seen in any direction, so to-day we finish all we 
intend to do before spring. And now we are ready 
to bid "good bye" to our pleasant winter home 
above the clouds, and seek a more comfortable place 
" down on the earth," as we say. We have been 
here a little more than a month, but have been 
obliged to keep housed so much of the time that it 
seems much longer. Employments and'associationa 



144 PHOTOGRAPHING UPON MT. WASHINGTON^ 

here have been full of interest and extremely pleas- 
ant, and it will be with many regrets that I leave 
&iends and comrades, hoping no accident will befall 
them, and that the completest success will crown 
their toilsome and hazardous efforts. 

Before I close to-day's memoranda, I must speak 
of the splendid view which we had, after the wind, 
by blowing so fiercely, obliged us to quit work. 
We could see distinctly hundreds of mountains, 
lakes, ponds, etc. Off to the northeast in the 
distance — one hundred and fifty miles distant — 
we see Mount Katahdin, the highest mountain in 
Maine ; and a little to the north we see mountains 
which apparently are much farther away than 
Mount Katahdin, and must be in the upper part 
of Maine, near Canada. We never before saw the 
ocean nearly as plain as to-day. We could see a 
great distance " to sea." Off to the southwest we 
could see Kearsarge Mountain and Monadnock, and 
over the Green Mountains the Adirondacks and 
Lake Ghamplain, in northern New York, were dis- 
tinctly visible. About two o'clock P. m. I noticed 
a long hazy line over the ocean. Soon it grew 
larger, and then I could see it was nearing us, and 
in an hour it was within forty miles ; and we could 
see it as a vast sea of cumulus clouds. The wind 
was increasing, and had changed from the east to 
the south, and it carried the approaching clouds and 



KIMBALVS EXPERIENCE. 146 

storm to the north of us. We were thankful to see 
it go by without striking us, for it is grand to be- 
hold, but not desirable for a covering. To-night 
we have some of the effects of it in the wind, 
which, as I write, is blowing a ' most violent hurri- 
cane,' making the Observatory creak. A few hours 
ago the wind ^as scarcely noticeable; now, its 
velocity is over eighty miles an hour. And for a 
wonder, it comes from the south, instead of north- 
west, as usual, and, as a natural consequence, it 
tears off all the loose ice and frost from the Ob- 
servatory. It seems.as if we were at sea in a se- 
vere gale, and broken ice and timbers were beating 
against our ship, and at times our building shakes 
like a vessel in storm. We don't sleep much on 
such a stirring occasion. H. A. Kimball. 

10 





CHAPTER X. 

THE TELEGRAPH WIRE, HOW OBTAINED, HOW 
LAID, AND HOW WORKED. 

[^^jrglT was found early in the history of the 
^wl^ Wliite Mountain Expedition that a tele- 
i '^^^ i graph was essential to' success. The com- 
mon wire could not be used in winter, as the 
ice collecting on it would break it, and tlie wet 
snow covering the wire on the lower part of the 
mountain would cause a constant escape of elec- 
tricity ; so we must have an insulated wire. The 
cost of such a wire was about a thousand dollars, 
but fortunately, the Bureau of Telegrams and Re- 
ports for the Benefits of Commerce, decided to 
make Mount Washington one of their stations for 
the winter, and from this Bureau we obtained an 
insulated wire and telegraph supplies. It was 
planned to take tlie wire to the summit by the rail- 
road, hut it did not reach the mountain before 
the engines were laid up for the winter. The 
only alternatives were to get men to carry the wire 
up the west side, or else transport it by a long 



AURORAL DISPLAY. 147 

and tedious route around the mountain and haul 
it up the carriage road, rebuilding the hundred 
bridges which had been taken up for the winter. 
We decided upon the last method. 

After the wire had been taken around to the 
east side of the mountain, we found that the instru- 
ments, batteries, etc., were still at Littleton, and an- 
other journey had to be made. So important was 
it that there should be the least possible delay, we 
started from the east side of the mountain after the 
sun had disappeared behind the mountain summits. 
As it was the evening of the grand auroral display 
in October, the night ride gave us an opportu- 
nity of observing a scene of unusual magnificence. , 
Through Randolph, the grand peaks of Madison, 
Adams, and Jefferson, tower high and seem to 
touch the streamers as they shoot upward towards 
the zenith and form a beautiful corona. Now it 
fades, but reappears in red and crimson lights; 
even in the dark woods of Jefferson the glow of 
light illuminates the dark forests. When we reach 
the hills of Whitefield, the aurora has entirely dis- 
appeared, and the full autumn moon shines in all its 
wonted splendor. Having obtained the supplies, 
the next day we returned, and the day following 
they were taken up the carriage road to the summit 
of the mountain. 



148 TEE TELEGRAPH WIRE, 

THE WIRE HOW LAID. 

Though the wu:e was now upon the summit, it 
was still a serious question how it was to be laid 
along the railway. A sled seven feet long was 
constructed, the coils were placed upon it, one 
being mounted on a reel. One of us sat upon a 
board in front to guide the sled and the other was 
behind, sUding down hill, as explained on page 75, 
and illustrated in the accompanying sketch. The 
sled upon the railway glides smoothly down the 
steep grade, and the wire uncoils beautifully and is 
laid just where it is wanted. It was something fear- 
ful to pass over the high trestle below the Gulf Tank 
and on Jacob's Ladder, and even now it almost 
makes one shudder to think of those dizzy heights^ 
the load we had, and the steep grade. But we reach 
Marshfield in three hours from the time of starting, 
and the wire has been successfully laid. On our 
return the wire is fastened down with eyelets close 
to the outer rail, and the summit is reached just at 
dark. We put it on the ties, because if placed on 
the ground where there was little snow, it would be 
constantly moved by the wind and soon worn off; 
and should it be broken in the snow and ice there 
would not be the least possibility of finding where 
it was broken, as we should not know where to look 
for the wire. On the railway we always know 




LAVINQ THIS CABLE ON JACOU'3 LADDER 



h 



ii 



REPAIRING THE CABLE. 149 

where the wire is, and more than half the way to 
Marshfield it has been most of the time out of 
the snow. 

m 

PUTTING THE LINE IN WORKING ORDER. 

Sergeant Smith, on his way to the mountain, found 
the line between Littleton and Marshfield broken, 
and in several places the wind had blown the wire 
from off the insulators. The inclement weather 
in the first part of December prevented all at- 
tempts to repair it. One of the party went to 
Littleton on the 10th, repairing the line on his way 
there. No breaks had been detected in the cable 
so far, as it was almost throughout its entire length 
covered with snow and frost. 

On the 12th we descended the mountain, and 
putting an instrument into the circuit at Marsh- 
field we had communication with Littleton, N. H., 
showing that the main line of the Western Union 
Company was in working order and that the breaks 
were in the cable. The chances of finding them 
were very small, the snow being in some places over 
twelve feet deep, but we had determined to make 
the cable a success. Digging out the wire as we 
ascended the mountain, and testing the current by 
connecting the cable from time to time with the 
main wire to the summit, which we used for a 
ground connection by running it into the brook at 



150 THE TELEGRAPH WIRE. 

Marshfield, we ascertained that the cable was all 
right as far as Jacob's Ladder. Here after a dili- 
gent search, we not only found the cable broken, 
but also the main line or the ground wire. We 
were convinced that it would be necessary to de- 
tach the cable here from the railway, as the tres- 
tlework is from twenty-five to thirty feet high, ex- 
posing the small cable, which is merely a No. 16 
copper wire, covered with gutta percha, to the force 
of the wind. So a new piece was put in and buried 
in the snow along the railway to the upper end of 
Jacob's Ladder. We proceeded on our weary trip 
up the mountain, still testing the current as we 
went along, until we reached Lizzie Bourne's mon- 
ument. Here, after removing^ some six feet of 
snow, we found another break ; but, as night set 
in, we were unable to mend it. 

The following day found us early at work mend- 
ing the last break, although the weather was fear- 
ful. A dense cloud rested upon the mountain, and 
the drifting masses of frozen mist soon covered us 
with a coat of snow and ice. Returning to the 
Observatory we found the instrument working and 
Littleton calling. We all were overjoyed, as our 
arrangements were now completed, and the cable 
a success. Although the line was worked with a 
powerful battery, the current remained rather 
feeble, a circumstance which we attributed to the 



TELEGRAPH INSTRUMENTS. 151 

great number of naked joints in the cable. The 
difficulties that were to be overcome in transmitting 
and receiving messages may easily be imagined. 
As a matter of course, our telegraphic connection 
with' the " world below " is looked upon by us as 
the most important outfit of our Observatory, as we 
can thus transmit meteorological observations, and 
in return hear of all news of importance as soon if 
not sooner than many a person " down on earth." 
For the latter we are under many obligations to the 
obliging operator (Mr. A. H. Currier) at Littleton, 
N.H. 

The length of the cable is nearly three miles, and 
the distance from Marshfield, where it connects 
with the Western Union Company's line, to Lit- 
tleton, is twenty-three miles. The instrument used 
here is a box-sounder, a combination of relay and 
sounder with key attached, manufactured by L. 
G. Tillotson and Co., in New York, and it be- 
longs to the Signal Department U. S. A. These 
instruments are used in the army field-telegraph- 
trains, and dispense, up to circuits of over a him- 
dred miles in length, by fair insulation, with the 
use of local batteries and sounders. 

The line has frequently been charged with atmos- 
pheric electricity, especially in the afternoon of 
the 7th of January, when on account of the high 
tension of these currents it became utterly unman- 
ageable. When the key was opened, the flow of 



152 THE TELEGRAPH WIRE. 

the cmrent still continued, exhibiting bright sparks 
leaping &om one platinum point to the other. 
After dark no auroral display could be seen. 
There is a wire connecting the summit with the 
Glen House, which is detached from the poles and 
laid upon the ground during the winter to protect 
it from the violent winds prevailing at this season. 
We had it attached to an instrument, and although 
no battery was used, we discovered that it was 
sometimes charged with electric currents, which 
deflected the needle considerably. The Glen wire 
was broken about a mile and a half from the sum- 
mit, and the one down the railway had parted at 
about the same distance, thus making the phe- 
nomenon quite remarkable. 

REPAIRING THE LINE UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 

The first interruption occurred on the morning 
of January 14, but the break was soon found and 
repaired. Eight days later the cable broke again, 
and Sergeant Smith, while searching for the break 
near Jacob's Ladder, slipped on the ice and slid a 
considerable distance, and only saved himself from 
being dashed to pieces on the rocks by catching in 
the trestle work of the railway. The return to the 
summit was a feat which took him some four hours 
to perform, he being deprived of the use of his left 
foot. Another break occurred early in February, 



REPAIRING THE CABLE. 158 

bat fortunately it was near the summit. Six trips 
had to be made before the damage was repaired, 
the wind blowing at the time seventy-six mUes an 
hour and the temperature being 16**. 

During the tremendous storm of February 17. the 
cable was considerably damaged near the Great 
Gulf, and the extreme cold and stormy weather 
during the subsequent three days prevented repairs, 
although Sergeant Smith made several attempts, 
returning once with the tips of his fingers frozen. 
Communication was finally reestablished on the 
afternoon of February 22. 

Only a few days later, the cable ceased to work 
again, and it was found that the ground wire was 
broken. The operator then tried one of the iron 
strap rails of the railway for a ground and it worked 
all right, although not as satisfactory as the wire, 
for the wet snow covering the railway near the base 
of the mountain formed the only medium of es- 
cape. Through some unknown cause this ground 
connection failed to work in April, and the break 
in the main wire not having been found yet, we 
tried the water pipes running fi-om the upper 
springs to the tank at Jacob's Ladder, and this 
worked excellently, especially after a long iron 
spike had been driven, into the soil near the upper 
line of vegetation and the pipe connected with it. 



154 



TEE TELEGRAPH WIRE. 



Ever since then the line has worked finely, and 
we consider ourselves fortunate that no more se- 
rious troubles have interfered with the sending of 
messages. The main line to Littleton remained in 
good order throughout the winter, while during the 
previous season it had been severely damaged by 
the falling of decayed trees, etc. As the ^greater 
part of the messages transmitted over our line were 
for places quite distant, the Western Union Tel^ 
graph Company has derived a handsome income 
from that source. 





CHAPTER XI. 



LIFE ON THE SUMMIT. 



OST pereong suppose that life on Mount 
Washington in winter must be gloomy, and 
gloomy enough it would be, at times, when 
the summit is enveloped Jn dense clouds for weeks, 
if it were not for the cheering click of the telegraph 
instrument. They might suppose also that time 
would be extended indefinitely ; that at night we 
should wish it was morning, and that in the morn- 
ing we should long for night to come, and thus drag 
out a weary existence. If the time of any persons 
in excellent health Is wholly occupied in a pursuit 
that is congenial they are rarely gloomy, and are 
almost unconscious of the flight of time. But here, 
besides good health and time occupied, there is 
an exciteihent found nowjiere else. 



THE EXCITEMENT OF LIVIMQ ON , 



MOUNTAIN 



One gorgeous sunrise throwing a flood of light 
across a sea of clouds, one glorious sunset tingeing 



166 LIFE ON THE SUMMIT, 

the clouds with crimson and gold, and as the sun 
descends leaving the blush of day upon these snowy 
summits, or a storm unprecedented at lower eleva- 
tions, infuse into our life enough that is grand and 
sublime to occupy the thoughts for weeks. With 
such surroundings, a person, on account of the in- 
tense excitement, may live too fast to have life 
extended to fiiU threescore years and ten ; but there 
is a pleasure in it that would fully compensate for a 
few days cut off* from the number to which life 
might be lengthened if passed in some quiet retreat, 
undisturbed by anything that arouses the whole 
being, and carries the mind into ecstasies of delight. 
So days and weeks pass, and we are almost uncon- 
scious of the lapse of time. 

OUR ARRANGEMENTS FOR COMFORT AND CONVEN- 
IENCE. 

But this record would not be complete without 
something specific being said of our habitation and 
our daily life, and it cannot be told better than in 
the language of " Ranger," the excellent corre- 
spondent of the " Boston Journal.** 

" As the lessee of the Tip-top and Summit 
houses raised objections to the occupancy of either 
of those buildings, Mr. Huntington and his com- 
panions obtained permission from the Railway 
Company to set up their lonely habitation in the 




iirlf thru 6x1 Chick OTer ilmoit Ctu 



CONSTRUCTION OF THE BUILDING. 157 

newly erected depot. The depot was built last 
sammer, and occupies a site of the same elevation 
as the Tip-top and Summit houses, northeasterly of 
those structures, upon the verge of the little plateau 
forming the summit of the mountain. The build- 
ings unlike the two diminutive public houses, 
whose sides are of stone, is constructed wholly of 
wood. It is sixty feet long by twenty-two feet 
wide, and stands nearly north and south. It has 
eleTQih-feet posts, and the elevation of the ridge-pole 
is twenty-five feet, the roof being of the same form 
as the roo& of ordinary buildings. The apartment 
inhabited by the party is situated in the southwest 
comer of this edifice, it is a room about twenty 
feet long, eleven feet wide, and eight feet high. 
The larger portion of the depot forms a sort of 
vestibule to this room and is wholly inclosed except 
at the easterly end of the northern face, where the 
outer door is situated. The little room was formed 
in the following manner : 1st, there was the thick 
plank floor of the depot itself, which constituted a 
good foundation to build upon ; 2d, a course of 
sheathing paper was laid over the original floor; 
3d, an additional floor of close-fitting boards was 
then laid down ; 4th, two thicknesses of sheathing 
paper were placed on the top- of the second floor ; 
6th, a layer of carpet lining was added ; and 6th, 
a thick woolen carpet was made the uppermost 



158 LIFE ON THE SUMMIT. 

layer of all. The inside of the outer walls was 
covered first with tarred paper, then with boards, 
a layer of sheathing paper was added, and wall 
paper was spread upon this. The ceiling is 
formed of two thicknesses of boards with sheathing 
paper between, and the inner walls consist of single 
thicknesses of boards, sheathing paper, and wall 
paper. There are two double windows — or rather 
half windows — on the westerly side of the room, 
and these are protected by strips of board without. 
The door of the room is of ordinary size, but the 
outer door is nothing but a little opening two feet 
square, some two feet from the floor. After the 
last observation is taken at ten o'clock p. m., the 
little aperture is closed by means of two sliding 
boards, but at all other times is left open. Very 
little additional cold finds its way into the building 
through this aperture, and its elevation from the 
floor prevents the snow from blowing in to any great 
extent. More snow finds its way through the 
crevices between the boards upon the sides of the 
building than through this hole. Contrary to what 
ordinary experience would seem to teach, the north 
side of the building is less exposed to the fury of 
the elements than any other. 

"We have thus far described none of the precau- 
tion taken to prevent the building from being torn 
to pieces by the terrible winter tempests, or from 



HINTS TO YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS. 159 

being blown away altogether. The frame-work is 
of the strongest possible kind, and is fitted together 
in the best manner. The sills extend beyond the 
walls eight or ten feet, and every means are taken 
to fasten the whole structure down to its rocky base. 
Within, bolts, iron rods, and wooden braces add 
strength to the walls, and three strong iron chains, 
securely fastened to the rocks, pass over the roof. 
Notwithstanding all these provisions the building 
rocks and bends before a furious wind-storm in a 
manner well calculated to create consternation and 
dismay. An ordinary house would stand no longer 
before such terrific blasts than would a house of 
cards before an ordinary wind. The great gale in 
December awakened the fears of the party for the 
safety of the depot, but as the structure stood that 
frightM assault it was thought no further danger 
on that score need be apprehended. It was never- 
theless thought best to strengthen the walls with 
additional braces and supports. 

" Young couples about to enter upon the respon- 
sibilities of housekeeping might learn some useful 
hints from these dwellers of the clouds. The little 
snuggery is mdde to serve not only as a kitchen, 
dining-room, sleeping-room, sitting-room, parlor, 
library, and study, but also as an observatory and tel- 
egraph office. Every inch of space is utilized. 
The telegraph instrument, battery, and other appur- 



160 LIFE ON THE SUMMIT. 

tenances of lightning communication with the out- 
side world, are in one corner of the cozy apartment, 
beneath one of the windows. At the same end of 
the room is a bedstead, while above it is a wide 
bunk, arranged after the manner of an upper berth 
in a steamboat. The most prominent objects that 
greet one upon entering the door are two stoves, 
which occupj^ the middle of the floor. One is an 
ordinary cook-stove, and the other is a Magee par- 
lor stove. The latter is prized very highly on ac- 
count of its marvelous heating properties. A ttoy 
was published not long since to the effect that it 
required seven dampers to regulate the draft, and 
also that considerably more than one half of the coal 
was already consumed. Neither of these statements 
are true. The stoves are easily enough governed 
by single dampers, and as for fuel, Mr. Huntington 
has enough on hand to last until next summer. 
The dining-table, which is generally covered with 
books, papers, and writing materials when not ol^er- 
wise in use, occupies one comer of the room, while 
between it and the telegraph instrument is a well- 
filled book-case and several shelves. Shelves, in 
fact, appear everywhere, and they contain a general 
assortment of everj'thing, while clothing, and at 
least an hundred articles of utility, hang suspended 
from pegs and nails. A writing tablet is hung upon 
the wall near the head of the bed, and upon this 



WALL ORNAMENTS. 161 

the observations are bulletined until th^y can be 
telegraphed, copied into the record books, or placed 
in the blank forms provided by the Smithsonian In- 
stitution. Beside it are two barometers, from one 
of which observations are made, and further on is a 
formidable row of smoking pipes. Some waggish 
member of the party has hung the tin sign of the 
old telegraph pflSce over Sergeant Smith's seat, and 
also inscribed something of similar import on the 
door without. During the early part of the winter 
the comer of the room now occupied in part by the 
telegraph was used by Messrs. Clough and Kimball 
as a * dark room ' in their photographic operations. 
The anemometer — the curious little instrument 
for measuring the velocity of the wind — is in a state 
of quietude on a shelf over the table. Beside the 
book-case, upon a projecting beam, is a coffee-mill, 
affording a striking exhibition of the combination of 
the scientific and practical. Among the other wall 
ornaments are a pair of snow-shoes, a hand-saw and 
other mechanical implements, an infinitude of tin 
dishes, a map of Paris and its fortifications, the pho- 
tograph of a young lady, etc. The floor is made 
the receptacle of numberless articles which cannot 
be put anywhere else. There seems to be, in short, 
*a place for everything,' but it not always hap- 
pens, I believe, that everything is found in its place. 
In the absence of the female element of a well- 

11 



162 LIFE ON TEE SUMMIT. 

regalated household, the scientific gentlemen con- 
tent themselves with following out one half of the 
apothegm. They all complain that it is the easiest 
place to lose anything in they ever saw. Injustice, 
however, it should be said that the apartment in 
general is in a very neat and tidy condition. A 
rocking-chair and three or four common chairs and 
stools, together with the table and beds, comprise all 
the movable furniture, while an ingenious member 
of the party has constructed a reclining seat upon 
one of the wooden braces. Most of the provisions 
are kept in the open part of the depot without, — 
about all, in feet, that freezing does not affect 
Fi^pzen pieces of fresh meat and of salt pork are 
suspended from tlie roof of this commodions refrig- 
erator." 





CHAPTER XIL 

JODKNAL. 

October Sth. 

hg^^TARTED for the summit of Moant Wasli- 
l^^ra^ ington with Mr. Cole of Berlin Falls; 
l ^^^l passed the Glen House at 4.30. p. M. 
Stopped just above the first mile-post and ate oar 
supper. We intended to camp, but it was so mild 
and pleasant that we concluded to keep on. When 
near the Half-way House we had a grand view of 
Mount Adams. How high it seemed as it lifted its 
huge foiTO up into the night. When between the 
fourth and fifth mile-posts, the moon jaat on the 
wane rose over the Carter Kange. What a charm 
there is in looking out upon these mountains, when 
the moon throws her gentle light across them. 
How mysterious those deep gorges as we look 
down into their depths, or rather try -to look, for 
their lowest depths are veiled in impenetrable dark- 
ness. The ascent, which on a warm day in sum- 
mer is 80 fatiguing, now seems like a dream, for we 
scarcely know that we have put forth any effort to 



164 JOURNAL. 

reach the summit. Found Professor Hitchcock, 
Mr. Phelps, and two men from Brooklyn, N. Y, It 
looks^rather dreary here, no room finished in this 
immense building ; they were trying to get fire 
enough to serve some tea for supper, but I think we 
had better sleep awhile, perhaps the coal will get 
up heat enough before morning, and we shall have 
tea instead of cofiee for breakfast. 

October 10. To-day we worked fitting up our 
room. We put in double windows, laid a double 
floor above and below with felt between the boards* 
Around the room we put felt, then boards, and on 
these we put sheathing paper ; on the floor a lined 
carpet. We then put our two stoves in place. I 
think we shall be able to keep warm. Having some 
calcined plaster, I suggested to Cole that we might 
have hard finish overhead, but looking up to the 
rough joist and boards, he said he thought it was 
" hard finished " already. 

October 13. How clear it is to-day ; can it be 
that what I see is something real ? Are those cer- 
tainly hills, mountains, and lakes, and can that bright 
line be the ocean, or does an excited imagination 
form this picture in the mind ? It is clear northward 
as well, and I recognize many places, so the scene 
must be real ; but I would not have believed, that I 
could see with such distinctness so far away. 

October 18. Went down as fiir as the Gulf House, 



A LIVELY TIME. 165 

and returning put the wire of Western Union Com- 
pany on the trestle to be used as a ground. When 
we reached the summit it was raining, and the wind 
was blowing fiercely. Cole lay on the bed, and 
covered up his head so that he should not hear the 
wind. Going out I saw that our door was giving 
a little, and thinking it might possibly blow in I 
told him I thought he had better make it more se- 
cure. He went out and put on additional fasten- 
ings, but in half an hour in it came. The boards 
and planks lying about in the building, were 
thrown in every direction. I never saw boards 
move about so lively, they seemed to have lost their 
weight. I know they were heavy enough the 
other day, when I put them in the building. We 
tried to put the door in place, but with all our 
eflForts we could not get it near the doorway ; we 
found ourselves almost powerless, for several times 
we were thrown down as though we had no 
strength. We put the door s^ainst the side of the 
building and tried to push it along, but when about 
six inches of it became exposed, in it came again. 
As a last resort we nailed a piece of plank on the 
floor, put the door against the side of the house, 
then took a piece of scantling, put one end ag|iinst 
the plank, the other against the centre of the door. 
One held the scantling while the other pushed 
the door, and in this way we got it into place and 



166 JOURNAL, 

nailed it so securelj, that I do not think we shall 
open it again soon. We were not out more than 
half the time I have been writing these lines, yet 
my fingers were nearly frozen. 

October 22. There is a little snow but con- 
siderable frost-work on the mountain. Went down 
to-day and took up the bridges. 

November 12. Started from Marshfield at seven 
A. M., arrived at the summit of Mount Washington 
at 9.30. It rained until I got within three fourths 
of a mile of the summit, then there was a frozen 
mist. The snow was six inches deep at Marshfield, 
at Waumbek Junction a foot. At the second tank 
the snow was drifted, none on the ties above. On 
the summit it was drifted so that neither at the 
Summit or Tip-top House could the doors be 
. seen ; there was very little about the depot. I am 
here alone, but should have come if I had known 
that I had to stay alone all winter. 

November 15. Have been above the clouds all 
day long, some of the time not a single mountain 
top could be seen, occasionally Mounts Adams and 
Jefferson would appear, but most of the day in 
every direction was this illimitable sea of clouds. 
Being here alone, one has nothing to do but to 
contemplate this immensity of space bounded only 
by the skj. 

November 24. The barometer lower this mom- 



SOME SMOKE, 167 

ing than it has been before. Wind blowing 
fiercely from the northwest, not steadily but in 
gusts. The house creaks in every joint. It is 
something fearful to sit here alone and hear the 
wind howl while showers of ice are blown against 
the side of the building and along the roof. But 
there was something still more to be dreaded. In 
the afternoon, as it was growing cold in my room, I 
put some wood in the large stove, thinking I would 
have a fire, but instead of the smoke going up the 
pipe, it all came out in the room. I was neatly 
suffocated, but the smoke cleared away ; then the 
gas began to come out of the other stove. If the 
smoke was bad, the gas was still worse. All the 
calamities that people had predicted would befall 
us, stood before me as so many grim demons ready 
for their victim. I suspected the cause : the frost- 
work had formed on the cap over the pipe, and had 
left on the opposite side a place for the smoke tQ 
escape, but a change in the wind was driving the 
gas out in the room. I could not go upon the roof 
to get the ice off, that was impossible. I tried to 
unjoint the pipe, but it was put up to withstand the 
storms, and besides on account of the rust the joints 
adhered so firmly that it seemed impossible to get 
them apart. Finally it came off near the stove, 
then it was taken off joint by joint, but when near 
the roof I thrust a stick up the pipe and knocked off 



168 JOURNAL, 

the frost. The pipe was replaced and the fire 
burned all right. I think I shall take the cap off 
the first pleasant day. 

November 30. Clear until two p. m., when 
light clouds began to pass over the mountain, but 
became dense toward night. Was surprised by the 
arrival of Clough, Kimball, Cheney, and Bracy. 
I am not likely to be alone again this winter. 

December 4. Sergeant Smith arrived to day. 

December 12. Clough and Smith went down 
to the base of the mountain, and as they returned 
they found that the wire would work to the second 
tank, but could get no current on the summit. In 
the morning the wind was south, but changed to 
northwest in the afternoon. At ten a. m. there 
was a bow on the clouds, and at twelve p. m. there 
were in addition three supernumerary bows which 
remained for an hour and a half, and some of ^e 
time they were remarkably distinct. Late in the 
afternoon the sky was intensely blue. 

December 13. The telegraph worked to-day for 
the first time ; now we are in the world again. 





CHAPTER Xin. 

JODBNAL CONTINOBD. 

- December 21. 



OREFATHERS' DAY was celebrated by 
the arrival of Prof. Hitchcock, L. B. New- 
ell, E. Thompson, F. Woodbridge, and tha 
writer. We ascended in a rough southwest snow- 
storm, with the velocity of the wind at 59 miles 
per hoar. It is pleasant to be located at last and 
settled down for the coming six months. It is quite 
a change in one short week from busy Boston to 
thb out-of-the-world-up-in-the-clonds Observatory. 
In the &ce of a gale blowing sixty miles per hour, 
Messrs. Kimball and Thompson took an observation, 
— nothing very remarkable in itself, — but as it was 
from the roof of the Tip-top House, the feat is 
worthy of record. They were out but five minutes, 
yet their coats, caps, and hair were covered with 
frost, and Mr. Thompson had slightly frozen a fin- 
ger. Later the wind had lallen to thirty miles, 
and Qow (eleven r. m.} it is moderate for Mount 



170 JOURNAL 

Washington. There are no signs of animal life 
outside. Mice are plenty in the house, and it is 
thought that a sable has taken up winter quarters 
under the building. 

December 23. Kimball was up first this morn- 
ing, and had the first sight of as beautiful a sunrise 
as one could wish. Unwilling that we sleepy fel- 
lows should lose it, he called us out. All were on 
their feet instantly, quickly washed and dressed. 
The wash-stand is a discarded buttet*tub. It was 
a cold morning, the thermometer indicating 0®, 
but we don't feel the cold as sensibly as in the 
lower regions. C. and K. took some fine views 
to-day, among them one of the Observatory with 
C, S., and N. standing by the door. Later in the 
day they took oTie from the. roef of the hotel. 
They have been successful against odds, having 
had but three days so far suitable for work during 
a month's residence. To return to the morning: 
after breakfast we all took hold of the forenoon's 
work. Mr. Woodbridge and myself washed the 
dkhes, the others clearing the room; for though 
this party are shut out from society, they seem 
to stick to the ways they have learned ** down in 
the world," and keep house in the most approved 
style. 

December 24. Yesterday afternoon and late at 
night a " snow-bank " lay along the south ; this fore- 



CHRISTMAS DAY. 171 

noon anow was falling with a temperature of — 13**. 
At times during the day the wind was as high as 
seventy miles an hour, consequently we were con- 
fined to the house. Mr. S. has much to do, many 
messages being sent to and from the " lower re- 
gions." He sends his first regular report to Wash- 
ington to-night. So it seems that the gavernment 
consider this station of importance, if the public do 
not. In working this line, Mr. S. has had many 
obstacles to overdbme ; but he seems to be deter- 
mined to have it work all right ere long. Canned 
beef, toniato sauce, cofiee, and pilot bread consti- 
tuted our dinner. Find no vegetables but onions, — 
bad for us. It is cold to-night (now, nine p. m., 
— 15°), and only 42° in the room, although we 
have two fires. Mr. K. received a telegram from 
home to-night. We sent a press dispatch of " A 
merry Christmas to all the world below." Christ- 
mas ! And what a contrast to some former ones ! — 
in situation at least. But I would not exchange 
places with the most favored of fortune this night, 
nor do I esteem any preceding Christmas Eve ab<WB 
this one. A jolly party Ave are, but for the tele- 
graph shut out from all intercourse with mankind. 
The wire attached to the sounder on the little table 
across the room is the connecting link between the 
" outside barbarians " and ourselves. They are 
doomed to read (curiosity if not interest will lead 



172 JOURNAL. 

them) the reports from. Mount Washington. We 
have a saying that whatever is done is all for the 
" Benefit of Commerce." 

December 26. There were no clouds above or 
around the summit. Below, and but a little lower 
than this peak, the clouds were dense and covered 
an extensive tract of country. Through the less 
dense portion of the lighter clouds, the sun's rays 
gave a peculiar rose-tint extremely beautiful in 
effect. This was my first cloud view, imd it was a 
treat beyond expectation. About ten a. m., Mr. K. 
and myself went out for an observation. We had 
the pleasure of witnessing the formation of sev- 
eral coronae, sometimes single but oftener three,* 
even on one occasion fowr distinct circles, ap- 
pearing and disappearing so rapidly that it was 
impossible to more than catch a glimpse of form and 
color. It was a phenomenon of rare beauty. Mr. 
K. devoted himself to the task of getting up a din- 
ner worthy of the day. His efforts were entirely 
successful, and as the highest compliment we could 
{•y him, we did full justice to the repast '* our 
Blot" had prepared. The bill of fare embraced 
roast lamb, onions, canned peaches, corn-starch 
pudding, and sauces. It was not a bad dinner to 
sit down to on Mount Washington on Christmas 
day ! Mr. S. and I did the smoking for the whole 
party ; all for the *' Benefit of Commerce." S., 



CLOUD MASSES. 17 ; 

K., and N. made a call at the Tip-top House, but 
did not stay long, the wind was too severe. Mr. S. 
takes our four-footed friends, the sable and mice, 
under his especial care, and sees that they get all 
the waste food. They are our companions, though 
we see them but seldom. 

January 10. After ten a. m. the summit was 
free from clouds, but below masses df clouds were 
driven along the valleys and over the lower sum- 
mits, and above there was niore or less of cirro- 
stratus. The clouds about and over gave grand 
effects of light and shade along the mountain 
ranges ; they were particularly fine on Adams and 
Jefferson and near the Glen. The snow is nearly 
all off the houses and the rocks, — a great change 
in three days' time. I cannot let the day pass 
without a mention of the high temperature — at 
one p. M. it was 37**. Like April it seemed, but 
who knows what it will be to-morrow ? 

January 14. Last night we saw a fine aurora, 
broken arches with streamers. Never before was 
one apparently so near ; it certainly did lool% as 
though it was within reach. The driving masses 
of clouds passing between it and us made -the view 
more interesting, as they filled the valley between 
us and the ridge north, nearly at our level. Some 
of the views to-day have been grand, although it 
has been more or less cloudy. The lichen-covered 
rocks look splendid this warm weather. 



174 JOURNAL. 

January 16. Still raining. At eleven this fore- 
noon Mr. S. started out on a voyage of discovery, 
but it rained so hard and the walking was so di£S- 
cult that he soon came back. Didn't stop long 
however; he is too energetic a man to give up 
easily ; so putting on an overcoat and otherwise pre- 
pared, he once more went out, determined to find 
the break in the wu:e, if he had to go to Littleton. 
Wished hiin good-luck, not expecting to see him 
for three or four days, and he was oflF. But we 
soon heard the click, click, click of the instrument, 
and then we knew that he had found the break. 
In half an hour he returned ; the break was at the 
Gulf Tank. Mr. Huntington went down to the 
spring to-day and brought up a pail of water. A 
week ago this was an arctic region, now it is more 
like April in the valleys of New Hampshire. 

January 17. The wind was high during the night, 
say eighty miles. This a. m. at seven o'clock only 
seventy-five ! — strong enough, however, to compel 
Mr. H. to sit while he measured the force of the 
wind, that he might not be carried over into Tucker- 
man's Ravine. A trip to that famous locality is 
pleasant under some circumstances — on a fine 
summer day, for instance, — but not so agreeable 
on the wings of a winter gale. Has blown stiffly 
all day, yet we have taken the air several times — 
pleasant walks in the face of a fifty-mile breeze. 



SEA OF CLOUDS. ^ 176 

Perfectly clear at sunset. Had one of the best 
views of the shadow of Mount Washington yet 
obtained. The mountains far and near look dull 
and gray now, since the rains. 
- January 18. I have seen to-day a sea of 
clouds. It is a rare, a grand, a magnificent sight. 
At ten A. M. westward from a line due north and 
south, as far as the eye could see, the clouds pre- 
sented the appearance of a frozen ocean. The 
surface level and motionless, apparently, but really 
moving eastward and only a little below the sum- 
mit. In no direction west of a line north and 
south was there a glimpse of mountain or valley. 
Turning to the east the contrast was striking, for in 
this direction there was scarcely a single cloud, and 
the atmosphere was remarkably clear. Saco Valley 
was never more distinct, while the range comprising 
Clay, Jefferson, and Adams was completely hid- 
den, but the Carter range loomed up as on a clear 
morning when not a single cloud can be seen, and 
far away the ocean was plainly visible. I went out 
south to a point of rocks and- stood there almost 
over the clouds. Above were beautiful forms of 
cirrus clouds, very high. 

January 19. Mr. H. called us out before sun- v 
rise to see the beauty of the morning ; in truth it 
was wicked to miss such a glorious view as we had. 
Perfectly clear and nearly calm. Never before 



176 JOURNAL. 

have I seen the shadow of the mountain so grand 
on the western sky, never so charming the purple 
tints at break of day. Never so impressive have 
been the shaded outlines, the lights and shadows 
on the mountains and in the valleys as on this 
memorable morning. Sunset was but the comple- 
ment of the morning, and the evening is beautiful 
as ever night can be ; the st;^u*s shine with a light 
as soft as June, — all, all, is beautiful. Who would 
not live on Mount Washington ? Who would not 
brave danger, endure hardship, and the loss of 
social ties for the pleasure of these clear winter 
days upon the mountain summit ? H. and S. took 
their constitutional in the shape of a sled-ride down 
toward the Glen, about a mile ride, making some 
of the way 2.40. It is slightly hazardous, but full 
of fun and very exciting. 

January 21. Mr. S. 'started early for the 
camp at the base of the mountain, but met with a 
serious accident, badly spraining his ankle near 
Jacob's Ladder, so that he had to return. How 
fortunate that he did not break his leg, as we 
should have known nothing of it, and had he not 
been able to crawl to the camp he surely must have 
perished I We should not have been alarmed if he 
had not returned, for it is no unusual thing for the 
one going down to stay over night. 

January 22. Having a gale to-day, and not 



A SEVERE GALE, 177 

only a high wind, but a temperature below any- 
thing I have ever experienced before, now at nine 
p. M. — 34° inside the door. The wind is eighty 
miles, blowing steadily. At two p. m. wind seventy- 
two. Professor H. measured the velocity. He had 

• 

to sit with a line around him, myself at the other 

end indoors, as an anchor ; even then it was almost 

• 

impossible for him to keep his position. Tempera- 
ture — 31**. I put up a pendulum this morning in 
our room, it is four feet long, and the rod passes 
through a sheet of card board, on which are marked 
the points of compass. The oscillations when the 
wind blew in gusts were in every direction, chang- 
ing suddenly, and sometimes had a rotary motion. 
When the wind was steady the oscillations were 
northwest and southeast. With two fires the room 
is cold to-night. Had a long talk with Littleton 
and Concord, all anxious to know how cold it is 
here. 

January 23. The wind raged all night. The 
house rocked fearfully, but as we had no fear of a 
wreck, it did not disturb us much. Sometimes it 
would seem as if things were going by the board, 
but an inspection showed everything all right. It 
is a sublime a&ir, such a gale, — only .we do not 
care to have it repeated too often. Nobody was 
hurt or scared, though there was not much sleep 
for our party, with such an uproar of the elements. 

12 



178 JOURNAL, 

Evidently the spirits of the monntain are angrj 
at this invasion of their domain. Toward morn- 
ing the wind ceased, and all day it has been nearly 
calm. The temperature outside — 43®. P|*ofessor 
H. and myself sat up all night to keep fires going. 
The pendulum gave oscillation of an inch and a 
half at times during the night. Temperature to- 
pight ten j». i^ — 40** ; a changeable climate this. 

January 27. Stormy all day, wind from forty 
to sixty-eight miles per hour. H. measured the 
force of the wind at seven p. m. How he stood 
up against it is hard to tell, — came in covered with 
frost and snow. To-night we had some fearful 
gusts, the house creaked in every joint, and the ice 
was thrown against the side of the building in ter- 
rific showers. 

Crash went a pane of glass, in a minute another, 
and then a third. Lively times for awhile, but 
fortunately the windows are double, and the inner 
ones escaped. We fitted some boards in case they 
should be needed, but soon after the wind moderated. 

January 30. It is a quiet, mild, clear day. 
Clouds beautiful, bright, and fleecy, floating grace- 
fully past the summit. At four p. m. one dense 
cloud stretched from Mount Washington to the 
Green Mountains. 

January 31. The most glorious sunrise this 
winter. To the east was a sea of clouds, somewhat 



FINE VIEW AT SUNRISE. ITS 

broken and much lower than usual. The protrud- 
ing peaks resembled islands more than ever before. 
Over Northern New Hampshire and Maine, and 
along the coast, the clouds were very dense, but 
their upper surface as the sun shone across them 
was of dazzling brightness, while singular forms of 
cirrus clouds overcast the sky. Low in the west it 
was intensely black, and detached masses of clouds 
floated along the northern horizon. For an hour 
after sunrise all these cloud forms were constantly 
changing in color, — purple and crimson, leaden 
hues and rose-tints, almost black and dazzling white. 

February 1. Clouds on the summit till noon, 
then it suddenly cleared up. Early in the fore- 
noon the wind was fully fifty miles an hour ; at noon 
it was nearly cialm and till nine P. m., not above 20. 
At nine p. m. the thermometer indicated — 16**. Mr. 
Huntington went to the camp for mail, this morn- 
ing, and returned at one p. m. bringing nothing. 
No one has been out to the White Mountain House 
this week. Mr. Smith has been making repairs on 
the line. It is his first day out since the 21st ult. 
S. has sent oflF all delayed messages this evening. 

From 3-80 p. k. to sunset there were the finest 
cloud displays possible. Eastward heavy masses of 
cloud in color from gray to an intense black ; west, 
detached cirro-stratus presenting every shade and 
color. Along the northern horizon a clear, white 



180 JOURNAL, 

light rested ; the west was burning bright in crim- 
son, purple, and gold, while fkr south, fading out 
toward the east into gray, the color was a delicate 
rose-tint. Below to the west, far as we could see, 
the whole country was covered with cloud. The icy 
peaks glow and glisten in the bright sunlight. The 
transitions of shades and tints, the colors burning 
into the radiant sunset, surpassing anything we have 
seen yet for a sunset scene, mark this as a day 
never to be forgotten. As I write it seems like a 
dream-picture. 

Thursdat/, February 2, 10 p. m. This has been 
one of the indiflFereht days, of which there are for- 
tunately few. Just now it looks as though the 
night would prove the counterpart of the day, for 
it is " blowing great guns." All day the wind has 
been light, and it was nearly calm this evening 
till half an hour since, when, without any warning 
the gale began, not with a rising wind, but a single 
blast that shook the house to its . foundations. I 
said that we had no warning of its approach, we 
had notice of it in the falling of the barometer. 

A moment before the first blast, some one called 
attention to the quiet night, remarking that the 
storm would not probably reach us before morning, 
when conversation was suddenly interrupted by 
the uproar of the elements. We had a hearty 
laugh at the expense of the party who predicted a 



VELOCITY OF THE WIND. 181 

pleasant night. Now, eleven o'clock, the wind has 
risen to the dignity of a gale. As the temperature 
is — 20° out-doors, and too low for comfort in this 
room, we are going to replenish the fires^ and retire 
to our more comfortable beds. 

A wind blowing sixty miles an hour is quite as 
agreeable as these calm, cloudy days, when if one 
goes out there is nothing to see, or, if from choice 
remains in-doors, it is to sit in the twilight gloom of 
the little room. In cloudy weather we frequently 
light up at three o'clock. Think I had better toast 
my half-frozen feet and go to bed, as Professor and 
S. have already done. 

Friday^ February 3. Well, it did blow last 
night, making some of the time such a racket out- 
doors and in-doors too for that matter, that sleep 
was out of question. Must have been high as ninety 
during several of the heaviest gusts. For a change 
we get to-day the most severe snow-storm of the 
winter, so far. The wind is northwest, the point 
from which our storms and hurricanes come. At 
no time has the temperature been higher than 5° ; 
it was — 25° this morning at seven o'clock. 

S. and myself are yet on the sick-list, so all the 
hard work falls to Professor H. To add to the 
discomfort of our situation the line failed last night, 
just after S. got off the Press despatch. Cold as 
it is, and has been all day, Professor H. made six 



184 JOURNAL. 

dred miles per hour. In fact it is a first-class bai> 
ricane. The wind is northwest, and as the house is 
broadside to it the full force is felt. At times it 
seems as though everything was going to wreck. 

We go to the door and look out, — it is the most 
we can do ; to step beyond, with nothing for a hold- 
fast, one would take passage on the wings of the 
wind in the direction- of Tuckerman's Ravine. 
However unwillingly one might go, such would be 
the result if he should venture outside, so irresist- 
ible is the fury of wind. 

Find that I froze my fingers while sawing off a 
piece of pork for our " Sunday baked beans ; " was 
out only five minutes. It was like cutting into a 
block of gypsum to saw ofl* that piece of pork. 
Wish we had engaged a competent " cuUared pus- 
son " to take charge of the culinary department, for 
none of us are first-class cooks. 

What varied sounds the wind has as it chaflges : 
now howling, screeching, roaring, as though the 
building was surrounded by demoniac spirits bent 
upon our destruction. We shout across the room 
to be heard. Now it suddenly lulls and moaning 
and sighing it dies away. Then quickly gathering 
strength it' blows as if it would hurl the house from 
the summit. The timbers creak and groan and the 
windows rattle ; the walls bend inward ; and as 
the wind lets go its hold rebound with a jerk that 



THE HOUSE GROANS. 186 

Starts the joints again. The noise is like rifle- 
firing in fifty different directions, at the same 
moment ; in the room, — a moment ago close by 
me as I sat here, leaning against the wall, now 
in the outer room or up aloft, and outside as well. 
Then there is the trembling and groaning of the 
whole building, which is constant. Everything 
movable is on the move. Books drop from the 
shelves, we pick them up, replace them only to do 
it again and again. Professor has just looked at 
the thermometer, finds the temperature lower than 
at last observation, is now — 40°. Professor and S. 
are taking hourly observations. When we hear an 
unusually loud report in the outer room one goes to 
inspect, — nothing has given away yet. I am going 
to bed, to get warm if not to sleep. 

Smiday^ February 5. From one to two A. m. 
the wind was higher than during the early part of 
the night. Some of the gusts must have been above 
100, possibly 110. The tempest roared and thun- 
dered. It had precisely the sound of the ocean 
waves breaking on a rocky shore. And the build- 
ing too had the motion of a ship scudding before a 
gale. At three a. m., the temperature had fallen to 
— 69° and the barometer stood at 22.810, attached 
thermometer 62°. Barometer was lowest yester-^ 
day at eight a. m., when it was 22.608, and at- 
tached thermometer 32°. Now, seven a. m., the 






186 JOURNAL. 

thermometer indicates — 25°. and the wind has 
fallen to 70. l^y accident the spirit thermometer 
has not yet been received. But this has been the 
only day when the mercurial instrument has. not 
been perfectly reliable. The valleys are full of 
stratus clouds ; charged with frost as they are, occa- 
sionally sweeping over the summit, they completely 
cover one in a moment, hair, beard, and clothing ; 
when the face is exposed it feels like the touch of a 
hot iron. To breathe this frosty air is very un- 
pleasant. A frill inhalation induces a severe cough- 
ing fit. Our butter-tubs stand in the outer-room ; 
this morning we cut a piece of butter for breakfast, 
using a chisel and hammer! — it was like cutting 
into a stone. 

Nine A. M. Talked over the events of the past' 
night at the breakfast table, recalling many laugh- . 
able incidents, and agreeing that we rather enjoyed 
the night's experience than otherwise, that it was 
a sublime affair (having full confidence that the 
house would stand, the storm had no terrors for us) ; 
but all things considered, were unanimous in the 
opinion that once a fortnight was quite often enough 
for such grand displays of the storm-king's power. 
Of all the nights since this party came here the last 
exceeds every one. 

Nine p. m. It has been a rough day ; down in 
the world, people would say a severe one ; so should 
we but for the recollection of last night. 




HBASURINd THE WIND 

h mtMUrlDg (be irlnd when Che •fIscK; wi 
■boM brIgliCl;, Ht. AduM b tbe premlu 



I 



AGREEABLE CHANGE. 187 

Our coal-bin is under two feet of snow, and any- 
where in that room the snow is six inches deep. 

The wind is falling and temperature rising ; it 
seems as though we should get a good night's rest, 
— no one will object in the least. 

Monday^ February 6. The highest tempera- 
ture to-day, 12°, and the lowest now, nine p. m., 2°, 
is a very acceptable change. Wind 50 in fore- 
noon, now 20, — is good as a calm. It is clear, and 
the moonlight is that of the mountain, seen only at 
this or higher elevations. 

They have put the line in order to-day, and Pro- 
fessor sent an interesting Press despatch. Wonder 
if our situation excites any comment, especially as 
we have held no communication with the lower 
world for three days. S. has clea^'ed off his Wash- 
ington reports, — a dozen of them. I have improved 
the time in writing letters. Professor set some 
glass this afternoon, out doors ; — the wind at 40 
and thermometer 8°. 

Tuesday^ February 7. A glorious sunrise ; a 
quiet, warm day, and at sunset almost equal to that 
of the 1st inst. Temperature at two p. m. 62° in 
the sun. Change of temperature since Sunday of 
121° I 

This afternoon I finished the work of setting 
glass begun by Professor yesterday ; worked with- 
out gloves and was warm enough. Heard the 



188 J0URN4L. 

whistle of an engine on the Grand Trunk road ; 
seldom the sound of an engine whistle reaches us, 
or any sound from the busy world. For anything 
of sight or sound below, we might as tvell be living 
on the shore of Morton's Polar Sea. 

Pmfessor went to the station this forenoon, came 
back at two p. m., — no mail for us. The snow is 
deep, but the crust is hard, so he made an easy trip 
of it. S. made extensive repairs on the line this 
forenoon; now it is all right till the next heavy 
gale. It is working better than ever to-night. 

I have given some time this afternoon to the 
study of cloud formations. Days like this are so 
rare that we improve every opportunity for investi- 
gation. Gales, storms, hurricanes, all clear off with 
a north wind, — a wind gentle and soft as the south 
wind of the lower regions. How can this be ex- 
plained? It is S.S.W. to-night and two miles per 
hour, a marked conti^st to Sunday morning I Mr. 
Holden, " Ranger " of the " Boston Journal," tele- 
graphs from Littleton that we may look for him to- 
morrow. Great is the rejoicing here, for a visitor 
is a god-send, and none more welcome than Mr. H. 

Wednesday^ February 8. Ten p. m. There is 
evidently a snow-storm along the coast, the north- 
ern edge within fifty miles of us. This forenoon 
we could see the storm as it moved eastward. 
It was cloudy and clear by turns on the sum- 



FRIENDS ARRIVE, 189 

mits, that is, the lower current of cloud rested at 
tunes over us. The valleys east were full, and the 
upper stratum overcast the entire country far as 
could be seen. Wind S.S.W., from 20 to 50. 
Temperature from 14° at seven a. m., to 20° at 
two p. M. Interesting to watch the progress of 
the storm, and to see the lower current of cloud 
driven by an easterly wind running under the 
higher stratum which, of course, was moving to- 
ward the northeast. Lake Winnipiseogee showing 
dimly, all the country beyond hidden from sight. 

Professor left immediately after breakfast for 
the station — Marshfield, ■— to escort our expected 
guests, Messrs. Holden, Cogswell, and our whilom 
companion, Clough. S. and I busy making things 
*' shipnshape " around the house ; laid in a supply 
of ice, enough for three days' consumption. Are 
obliged to look sharp in fair weather and lay in an 
ample stock of ice, for it sometimes happens that 
we cannot replenish for several days. 

At noon the party arrived ; they received from 
us £l right hearty welcome. They brought a large 
mail, and a contribution of magazines and papers. 
Some of the dailies are a fortnight old, yet we read 
them with as much eagerness as we do the evening 
paper at home. 

Ours was as jolly a dinner-party as ever met at 

Young's " or " Parker's." And the evening has 



44 



190 JOURNAL, 

passed pleasantly ; we had something to. tell our 
friends of mountain life', and they, in return, had 
much to relate of events occurring since we left the 
region below the clouds. 

Arrangements are being made for the night ; 
our accommodations are limited : it is two in elich 
bed and two on the floor. S. and I sleep on the 
floor; as we are used to roughing it, doubtless we 
shall sleep soundly. 

Thursday^ February 9. Nine p. m. Cloudy 
all day, wind moderate, temperature high as 26**. 
The cloud on the mountain so dense that it was 
impossible to see ten rods in any direction. The 
frost-work is fine. 

Had a roast-turkey dinner with all the side 
dishes that our mountain larder could supply. I 
must note — if I desire to be considered " truthful 
James " — that our roasted bird was baked. The 
united verdict was, that it was a capitally got up 
meal. Fun and good humor made everything pass 
agreeably, and we did not miss the many little ac- 
cessories supposed to be necessary to a well-ordered 
table. 

It is a pleasure to have company in this out-of- 
the-world-place. And I sincerely hope that we 
may be able to treat our friends to some one or 
more of the Mount Washington novelties, a gor- 
geous sunrise or brilliant sunset, a superior show of 



FEARS FOR SAFETY. 191 

frost-work, or failing in these, something in the line 
of hurricanes. It is a pity they should be at the 
trouble of making the ascent at this inclement sea- 
son and not take back something of the experience 
which falls to our lot daily, something to endure 
or enjoy, as the case may be. 

The line has been down to-day between Littleton 
and Concord, this time it is not the Mount Wash- 
ington cable. 

The papers say that fears were entertained for 
our safety during the time the line was down. 
Knowing better than the good people below all 
about the matter, we had not the least anxiety. 

Fridat/y February 10. The wind high all day, 
88 at two p. M. ; Holden having the honor of 
measuring its velocity ; Professor timing him. H. 
acknowledges perfect satisfaction as regards Mount 
Washington winter winds. Now, seven P. m., the 
wind is rapidly rising. Been cloudy all day ; a 
dens^ cloud on the summit charged with frost. 

Have done very little writing to-day, any of us, 
but we find the time passing quickly in the society 
of our visitors. In conversation, our party most 
resembles a Debating Club doing up six months' 
business in a three days' session. 

12.30. It is past midnight and we are beginning 
to talk of retiring. About eight o'clock the wind 
had worked up to the ninety mile rate, and then 



192 JOURNAL, 

commenced a furious bombardment of ice from the 
summit and frost-work from off the house. The 
house shook and trembled as the fiercer blasts beat 
against it. Pieces of ice were driven between the 
bars protecting the windows, and at last by one 
heavy discharge three panes were broken. As 
good luck would have it the broken lights were 
ill the room above. The roar of the wind as it 
rushed through the opening was enough to wake a 
Rip Van Winkle. 

Professor, Clough, Smith, and myself were out in 
a moment, and after having the " hurricane " lan- 
tern blown out — which is warranted to bum the 
brighter the higher the wind, — and twice extin- 
guished, we succeeded in nailing boards over tlie 
aperture. Still the bombardment was going on 
for an hour, but no more glass was broken. The 
supply of ammunition was exhausted by ten o'clock, 
and then, though the wind was terrific, we did not 
mind the gale. 

Professor, Cogswell, and Clough went to bed ; 
Clough not to stay there long, for Holden, Smith, 
and myself were having too pleasant a time chat- 
ting and reading around the table. Only when 
a more than usually heavy gust struck, did we 
pay any attention to what was going on outside. 
Half an hour ago we made coffee and partook of a 
lunch ; now we think of retiring. The line failed 



A RESPECTABLE GALE. 193 

just after H.'s " Journal " despatch went. One 
thing sure, — our friends have had the enjoyment of 
a very respectable, if not a first-class gale. It does 
not seem now as if it would rise to the rank of that 
of December, January, or the one of last week. 
The temperature at nine p. m. was — 20°. Hourly 
observations to-day. 

And now we are going to bed to hear the wind 
blow, if not to sleep. 

February 11. It has been a rough, disagree- 
able day ; a dense cloud on the summit till late in 
the evening. But as if to compensate us for being 
shut in. and seeing nothing all day, there has been 
during the entire evening a magnificent aurora. 
Now — nine, p. m. — the temperature is — 21° ; 
not above zero at any time during these last 

Clough and Smith made an attempt to repair the 
line this morning, but were forced to give in before 
they had gone far. 

We had for pudding on our table this noon, the 
CHristmas gift of Mrs. — ■ — . Our guests pro- 
nounced it excellent. Following a griddle-cake 
breakfast, this is truly '* high " living. Subsisting in 
the main, as we do, on canned beef, hard-tack, and 
coffee, such trifles make '* talk " in this household. 

Monday^ February 13. Evening. So busy in 
the forenoon yesterday, writing letters, and lastly, 

13 



194 JOURNAL. 

helping the party in their preparations for the de- 
scent, that I found no tim^ for Ae Journal. In the 
afternoon, had the magazines to read. 

The party left at 11.20. S. and I watched 
them going down as long as we could see them, and 
then returned to the house, perhaps a little envious ; 
a little more thoughtful, more silent we certainly 
were than usual, though this is not the first time 
we have lived by ourselves. Really, these few 
days have passed most agreeably. 

The dinner was eaten in silence, and then we 
read till ten o'clock, neither feeling in a mood* for 
conversation. 

Soon after the party had gone, a snow-storm set 
in. It had been cloudy all the morning, and snow- 
ing to six A. M. There is a foot of light snow, the 
largest quantity at any one time this month. 

The day fine with little wind, and a temperature 
of 25° in the sun and 5° in shade at two p. m. A 
nearly clear sky above, the valleys clouded over at 
sunrise. The clouds in the morning did not pre- 
sent any remarkable features for this locality, but 
from three to half-past four P. m., there was an ex- 
tensive " sea of clouds." It extended from a point 
sixty miles north, far as the ocean east, bounded 
only by the horizon. This summit was alone above 
the cloud. It was to the eye a frozen polar ocean, 
here and there a lofly mountain of ice rising from 



SHELTERED BY A ROCK, 195 

the apparent dead level surface. The setting sun, 
throwing a silvery light along the cloud, dispelled 
the illusion. Perfectly clear overhead all day, — 
our sunny day contrasts strongly with the cold, 
gloomy, cloudy one below. If we have much cloud 
liere, it is not always sunshine there. 

There is a cosy spot which I visited to-day, 
five minutes walk from the hotel in a southerly 
direction. It is a large boulder, six or eight 
feet high and as many wide, forming a perfect 
wind-break. Light as the wind was, we were 
chilled through while on the summit, but under the 
shelter of this rock it was warm enough, and then 
the outlook is one of the best. 

The evening is calm, and it seems strange to. 
have so quiet a night, yet the change is appreciated 
by us. A bright, starlight night. We have been 
out to enjoy its beauty. These days and nights like 
this are all too rare to lose one of them. The tel- 
egrams are sent. S. gets one from Littleton, 
who says, " cloudy here all day." Also one from 
the Professor, reporting the party at Littleton this 
morning. These, to us, important messages, we dis- 
cuss as I write, and '^^ guessing " as to the weather 
for to-morrow, we close the day's labors and think 
of retiring. 

Tuesday^ February 14. Relieving, in a large 
measure, the monotony of mountain life in winter, 



196 JOURNAL. 

are cloud views. To-day we had in early morn- 
ing a " sea of clouds," and later, the pleasure of 
watching and noting the progress of a storm. The 
under current below the level of the summit, as it 
came in from the ocean, and its advance westerly ; 
far south the storm-cloud moving toward the north • 
east, snowing over Lake Winnipiseogee two hours 
before it did here, was a sight worth seeing. Some 
idea of the grandeur of an advancing storm may 
be obtained from a description ; but a clear concep- 
tion of it, only by seeing it. Snowing at 6.30 
p. M. Concord and Boston report " snow." S. has 
had a long talk with each of these operators. 

Had Hanover to-night. Professor Hitchcock, for 
the Scientific Association, has taken by telegraph, 
the pulsations, heart, and wrist, of the " members 
resident." Wind southwest, not above fourteen ; 
highest temperature 18° at two in the afternoon, 
and 7° at seven in the evening. Barometer nearly 
stationary. 

Wednesday^ February 15. The storm was but 
for the night. Clear at seven in the morning ; tem- 
perature 5°, and wind N.N.W. Fine ocean view 
this morning. Northwest wind all day, rough but 
not cold. Many and sudden changes of tempera- 
ture, as for instance, at six in the evening 13°, and 
nine o'clock, 20°. Littleton reports, " quite warm in 
L. ; " we wish it might be here. Interesting cloud 



SCIENTIFIC DISPATCH. 197 

formations which I record elsewhere. A heavy 
cloud lying low in the south to-night. 

By request of Professor Hitchcock, we s6nt a 
long despatch to the Dartmouth Scientific Asso- 
ciation this evening. S. has had his hands ftill 
to-night, sending and receiving more messages than 
many regular offices do in two days. 

Repairing the line to-day, he found a great depth 
of snow a mile down the road. 

Thursday^ February 16, A storm of snow and 
rain. It rains here with the thermometer at 22°, as 
it did to-day, and snows with it at 30°, as might be 
supposed. Why it should rain at 22° is hard to 
explain. Wind steady, southwest through the day, 
but at 8.20 evening, changed suddenly to north- 
west, in gusts, sixty to eighty miles per hour. At 
nine p. m., still snowing. Forgot to mention last 
night, that at 6.30 p. m., I read from the " Atlantic " 
in the open air. Our days are about forty-six min- 
utes longer than they are at the sea-level. And 
this reminds me of the gentleman in B., who ex- 
pressed much sympathy for us on account of the 
%hort days we should have, half an hour shorter, he 
said. I accepted his expressions of commiseration 
without trying to set him right as to the facts. 

Neither S. or myself have written at all ; read an 
hour or two, turned post-laundress for an hour, 
doing my 0¥m washing — it is everyone for himself 



198 JOURNAL. 

in this institution, — then I cut S.'s hair, which he 
could not well do for himself, and so went the day. 
But would not our friends make themselves merry, 
especially our lady friends, to see us get a dinner, or 
at the wash-tub, or playing the part of a tidy house- 
keeper as we dust the parlor furniture and mantel 
ornaments ! Ours is a queer style of living ; if we 
have many pleasures which others know nothing of, 
there are some deprivations and not a few hard- 
ships to offset the advantages. We shall never 
forget the grand, sublime, and beautiful scenes of 
this place, and shall remember what living on 
Mount Washington in winter means. It will have 
a significance for us, if not for others. Littleton 
sends us the news that four gentlemen are on their 
way to Mount Washington ; does not say who 
they are. 

Friday^ February 17. Blustering weather, that 
is, only rough for Mount Washington, but would 
pass for a gale down below. 

About hoon the expected visitors arrived. They 
were favored in having the wind to help them, as a 
southwest wind is the worse, one having to face it. 
Northwest to-day. These gentlemen are Messrs. 
Walter and Chas. L. Aiken, Geo. C. Procter, of 
Franklin, New Hampshire, and Michael Mularvey, 
of Marshfield, New Hampshire. They brought us a 
large mail. Stopped to dinner, but returned to M., 



VISITORS. 199 

instead of spending the night here, as we hoped 
they would do. It was a disappointment to us, for 
we had counted on keeping them over night. 

Done nothing but write a few letters this evening. 
It is calm or nearly so ; calm as it ever is here, — 
never is quite that. The line is down somewhere. 
A storm is brewing. 

Tuesdat/y February 21. Have not written a 
line for three days;- or since Saturday, when we 
had a tough snow-storm and a wind all day that 
held us imprisoned much against the will of either, 
S. because the line was down, and I, from a de- 
cided preference to out-door life. In the afternoon 
and to a late hour in the evening we were busy 
with household duties. » 

Sunday proved clear and calm, a bright sunny 
day, yet the temperature was at no time higher than. 
8°. We had breakfast, then S. went out to repair 
breaks in the cable and I sat down to my writing. 
The line must be repaired as soon as possible after a 
break, and if the first fair day is Sunday, as it hap- 
pens to be this time, it becomes proper Sunday 
labor. Then, what could I do better than to an- 
swer some one or more of the dozen letters await- 
ing replies ? 

S. said when he left that he should not go far, 
and should be in by one p. m. Did not come, but 
two o'clock did. After taking the usual observations 



200 JOURNAL. 

I went down the railway. Found him at the Gulf 
Tank. He had been hard at work since early morn- 
ing ; the line was in an awful condition — broken in 
nearly a hundred places. 

Last Saturday night's gale must have been a 
hurricane over that part of the mountain. Perhaps 
it was worse here than we imagined, but we sleep 
so soundly even in the heaviest gales, that the night 
might have been one of the most tempestuous and 
we wholly unconscious of the raging storm. 

It was my first long walk since Christmas-week, 
after which date I was confined to the house till 
within a few days. Weary fi-om the unwonted ex- 
ercise, I sat awhile seeing him at work, then becom- 
ing chilled I slowly made my way home. Found 
the fires down and the house cold. S. came in 
soon after hungry and tired, his feet half frozen and 
fingers quite so. Tried to start a fire in the cook- 
stove till our patience failed, and we voted ourselves 
a cold dinner. Nor was it until bed-time that we 
had raised the temperature of the room to anything 
like comfort. Went to bed early — past ten o'clock, 
for S. takes an observation at that hour, and we 
always sit up as late as ten p. m., — and woke 
Monday morning to find it cold and windy, with a 
dense cloud on the mountain. 

No work on the cable, though S. made one at- 
tempt, contrary to my advice, and was driven back 



CABLE A GAIN REPAIRED, • 201 

after going a short distance, — came in covered with 
snow and frost. Writing to-day and when tired of 
that smoked. Tlie room has been warm, but it is 
stinging cold outside. A fierce snow-storm all day. 

This Tuesday morning we were out at day- 
break. A cold morning, temperature at seven a, 
M. — 8° ; the fires troubled us; had a cold breakfast, 
a warm one is a matter of the highest importance 
to us. 

Then S. went down to finish repairs, returning 
at noon. Got off all delayed telegrams at two 
p. M. He has labored under disadvantages, but 
persistently, for ten hours. 

Littleton says that Hanover has inquired for us 
every day. 

When S. left this morning the thermometer read 
— 4° and wind 20 ; at the Gulf Tank it was so warm 
he had to lay aside overcoat and gloves, — no wind 
there, — the snow was melting and the water run- 
ning down the centre rail ; quite a contrast to the 
summit, yet only one mile distant, — meteorologically 
speaking, he was 300 miles south of his mountain 
home, though in sight of it. 

After dinner laid in a large lot of ice, and then 
we had some cooking to do. " Housework " done, 
we took a walk. Fine weather, for a change. 
Beautiful cloud-views this afternoon. Light, fleecy 
clouds floating over Mdunt Monroe, dissolved before 



202 JOURNAL, 

reaching Tuckerman's Ravine^ They passed be- 
tween us and the sun, showing the prismatic colors, 
then as they rolled eastward gradually faded out 
and changed to a cold gray. The transitions 
of light and shade were inexpressibly beautiful, 
enough to give sensations of pleasure to the dullest 
observer and drive an artist crazy with delight. 

The buildings are cased in ice and frost-work of 
most elegant forms, resembling rocks, flowers, 
leaves, shells, and the wings of birds. Some are in 
Italian marble, others in alabaster. In another 
place I have written out a description in full. 

Wednesday^ February 22. The only perfectly 
clear day this month ; cool, the mean temperature 
being but 1.7**. These clear days, and if nearly 
calm, so much the better, are the chief attractions, 
or rather among them, for cloud-views count in the 
list. On such days even the most distant mountain 
peaks are clearly outlined. Katahdin is to-day 
plainly seen, as are some mountains in Canada as 
distant. The view is not often good in a southerly 
direction, — it is not to-day. The mountains be- 
longing to this group show grandly in the bright 
sunlight. 

S. has been working on the line and I have spent 
the day in writing. In such weather this is a 
pleasant winter residence. 

Anniversary of Washington's birth-day, and we 



WASHINGTON'S BIRTH DAY. 208 

had not thought of it until now I We might have 
raised our little flag in honor of the day ; it would 
have been " quite the thing." 

Thursday^ February 23. A nearly clear day 
here, but people below over a wide extent of coun- 
try had a cloudy, one. So much we had the advan- 
tage over them. Highest temperature at nine p. 
M. 23*, wind westerly, at no time higher that 4ft, 
barometer 23.90, higher than for many days. 

Writing for Work and Play, the most difiicult 
writing I ever tried my hand at, — prefer to write 
for adult readers. As this is a very excellent 
location for observation, one may fill pages daily 
with notes, but it is the worst possible place to work 
up anything fit for publication. There is so much 
to see : now it is a wonderful cloud-view ; then 
the summit is covered for a half hour, perhaps ; 
next the sun shines, and we know that if we go out. 
some new revelation awaits us, a new surprise to 
distract the attention from the work in hand. 

This evening, the bright starlight tempted me 
out. I did not propose to go far away from the 
buildings, but the night was so clear, so calm, and 
the stars shone with such brilliancy, I was induced 
to extend my walk down the mountain in a south- 
erly direction, till out of sight of home. 

If any person is curious to know what solitude 
means, to have a full realization of the term let 



204 JOURNAL, 

that one come here, and spend a half hour away 
from sight or sound of the busy world, — make 
himself believe for the nonce that he is the only 
one human being on the mountain, and if he does 
not confess that the word has a deeper meaning than 
ever he had thought, he is either more or less than 
human. 

Friday^ February 24, A dense cloud on the 
mountain, so that indoors we had a twilight gloom 
disappearing only for an hour in the afternoon. The 
day was so spring-like that we did not stay in the 
house. This morning I went down the railway to 
look after the line, there is trouble with it again. 
S. came down soon after, overtaking me at Lizzie 
Bourne's monument. 

As we could not leave the house unguarded, he 
went further and I returned. Where he left me 
the cloud was so dense that it was difficult to dis- 
tinguish any object a short distance below. Yet he 
passed out of the cloud into fair weather only a 
little way lower down; at the Gulf he entered 
the cloud again and encountered a heavy rain. 
Snow is melting and a thousand tiny rills are mak- 
ing music on the mountain. 

The wind southwest, and a soft April wind too. 
This afternoon we had to go no farther than the 
Glen stables to enjoy the warm sunshine, while here 
it was chilly, cloudy, and damp. 



WEATHER VARIABLE. 205 

From nine A. m. to three p. m. the temperature 
varied but a degree or two from 37° ; the barome- 
ter steady. 

Saturday^ February 25. Dull and gloomy, for a 
dense cloud rested on the mountain all day. Wind 
74 at two p. M. It was fair at Littleton. In a day 
like this one can read if he does nothing more. 
Two or three days like this tend to make us think 
of our daily life as being in the least possible degree 
monotonous. One will do, but more become unen- 
durable. 

Sunday, February 26. A morning perfect as a 
morning of winter can well be. Clouds in the val- 
leys, the ocean visible for a long distance up and 
down the coast and far out to sea. About nine a, m. 
a heavy cloud commenced to move inland, one por- 
tion of it moving up the Saco valley ; its progress 
was so slow that it did Hot shut the Glen House in 
till seven P. m. Heavy upper current southwest and 
thick in the south. Wind west to two P. m., then 
southwest and rising. The thermometer indicated 
25° at two p. M, 

The frost-work made last night has more the form 
of feathers this time. If the snow and frost of the 
summit was as uninteresting as that of the low- 
lands, Mount Washington would lose one of its 
greatest charms. What studies for an artist" in the 
various forms the frost-work presents ! I made a very 



206 JOURNAL. 

beautiful model for a vase of frost leaves, a day or 
two ago, simply taking four leaves of equal size, 
which were a little wider at the extremity than the 
base, and slightly concave, A more exquisite de- 
sign it would be hard to find in Nature's Book. 
• Monday^ February 27. This time we are 
favored with a rain-storm, pouring when it was 
calm, and in driving sheets after the wind rose to the 
agreeable rate of eighty-four miles pqr hour. At 
nine a. m. it changed to snow, and then it was by 
turns, rain for a moment, quickly changing to snow 
and suddenly rain again ; but the snow obtained^the 
mastery. The barometer fluctuated as it often 
does, falling in the afltem<5on. 

We brought water from the spring this morning, 
the first since some time in January, I think. The 
wind was not so high as later in the day ; it was 
getting water under difficulties, however. Shut in 
all day, but we had enough to do to keep us busy ; 
so although a disagreeable day the time did not 
hang heavy on our hands. 

Hanover telegraphs the welcome news of " Peace 
in Europe," and also the pleasing intelligence that 
Mr. Huntington is. on his way to Mount Washing- 
ton. We shall ply him with questions, S. says, for 
we are wholly ignorant of what is transpiring out- 
side our little world. Our labors are limited to a 
few things done over and over day after day ; ob- 



LETTERS FROM FAR AND NEAR, 207 

servations on clouds, winds, and storms in addition, 
which last vary from time to time ; our pleasures 
and recreations consist almost solely in walks 
around the narrow bounds of the summit, and in 
reading. We find a pleasure in correspondence, 
but our letters are one, two, three, sometimes four 
weeks old when we get them. I lately received a 
letter from England of the same date with one writ- 
ten less than two hundred miles distant. Professor 
H. has seen the world since we have and most as- 
suredly will bring a full budget of news. 

Tuesday^ February 28. This is one of those days 
which make us contented with our home. It cleared 
off early in the morning. Wind from fifty to seventy 
miles per hour. TJie mean temperature for this 
day is ; this cold weather combined with the high 
wind compelled us to remain in the house. I took 
the time for writing and did not go out at all until 
four p. M., when I got in a very small quantity of 
ice — the wind so strong that I lost the pail once, 
and my foothold a dozen times. Not troubled by 
" callers " to-day. 

The frost-work is again fine and the house, if 
not a marble palace, looks like a building fashioned 
from purest marble, no part of the chains, wooden 
braces, nor finish to be seen. 




CHAPTER XIV. 



JOXJKNAI. COHPLETBD. 



March Xft. 



9gh^ T is spring at last, and bow qnictclj the 
3a^^ winter has passed, though no more pleas- 

' antly to me than to the others. I had 

thought, as is often the case under like cfrcuinatah- 
ces, that time would rather drag. Welcome to the 
spring! — not that I am at all anxious to see May 
1, for this is altogether too pleasant living here to 
wish to have time pass rapidly, but spring-time is ever 
welcome. Even Mount Washington, in spring, has 
its own peculiar pleasure, it is presumable, as has the 
"lower worid." Snowing all day, quite aftirious 
storm even for tliis " home of storms. "_ So we 
write to-day. Prom early morning to three in the 
afternoon, we had been at our work, when just as 
the subject of dinner was up, we heard voices in the 
outer room. It proved to be a party of whom we 
had beard by telegraph — Mr. K. and Mr. Wilson, 
editor of the " Philadelphia Photographer," and our 
friend " Mike." They had a hard time coming up. 
They brought a mail. 



VIEW OF THE OCEAN, 209 

March 2. All were out early to witness a sun- 
rise of rare grandeur. The valleys were full of 
clouds, and occasionally there would a cloud pass 
over us driving rapidly over into the ravine. 
Snowing all the afternoon. Our visitors left. 

March 3. A storm seemed to be brewing last 
night at a late hour, and early it came, — a heavy 
rain-storm. Toward noon the wind rose, and at 
one p. M. it blew ninety-six miles per hour. How 
the wind roared in the flue ! How the house 
shook I Had to shout across the room to be heard. 
It was grand, however. From four o'clock the wind 
abated. At six p. m. S. and I went for water and 
got wet through, — night calm. 

March 4. A fine morning and warm. Had a 
fine view of the ocean by aid of a telescope. This 
glass was kindly loaned to us by a gentleman in 
Boston, made by R. B. Tolled, and is a splendid one 
for its size. Mr. S. went out to make some repairs 
on the cable. Our fires work badly to-day ; no draft, 
had a cold dinner. O, the trials of house-keeping I 
Think I shall board in future. After all, house- 
work is not such an art as the ladies would have 
us masculines believe. Made bread to-night, and 
now — - eleven p. m. — am waiting for the beans to 
boil. 

March 5. Dense clouds on the mountain in the 
morning but clear in the afternoon. Looked for our 



210 JOURNAL. 

mail, thinking that some of our fnends from Marsh- 
field would be up, and when we heard voices outside 
felt sure of it. Went to wait on them, found they 
were from the Glen House, and had come up on the 
carriage-road. Had two dogs with them, one an old 
but fine specimen of the Newfoundland race, who 
in his younger days had performed the responsible 
duties of a mail-carrier between the Glen House 
and Gorham, a distance of eight miles; he was 
completely used up. Treated both men and dogs to 
a good dinner, and they started back at four p. m. 

March 1th. A fair, blustering day. As we ex- 
pected Professor H. we waited with our dinner 
till three p. m. ; he arrived at four p. m., and 
brought Dr. Rogers and Mr. Nutter of Lancaster, 
N. H., with him. Spent the evening very pleasantly 
reading our letters and papers. 

March 9. Another day peculiar to Mount 
Washington. All day the clouds have been driv- 
ing over the summit. There would be times 
when it was perfectly clear. Wind from forty to 
fifty miles, and temperature as high as 43^ in the 
shade. 

March 11. The morning was so fine that we 
felt invited out. The rocks look charming in their 
alpine-dress of beautiful, pale green, moss lichen. 
The snow is nearly all gone. We were so fortu- 
nate as to discover a fine bunch of Greenland 



PROGRESS OF A STORM. 211 

sandwort, one in bloom. I took up some of each 
for house-plants, that our parlor may boast its 
winter-garden. 

March 15. Many have been the magnificent 
sunrises this winter, none more so than that of this 
morning. The day has been calm and nearly clear, 
and along the north mountains are in view that 
are not often seen, and some never before this 
winter. Heard this morning the astonishing news 
that New Hampshire has gone democratic. 

March 16. Rainy much of the day and this 
evening. Mr. H. and Mr. S. out repairing the 
cable. 

March 23. This morning there was a thick 
stratum of clouds eastward, at a moderate eleva- 
tion above the summit. By eight a. m. it was 
quite dense. At nine a. m. snow-squalls to the 
northeast, and the clouds gradually settling in the 
valleys ; eleven o'clock thick on the Carter Range ; 
by twelve, clouds all about, except on the summit. 
By two p. M. the mountain was in the clouds. The 
formation — for I can call it nothing else — and 
progress of the storm was very interesting. The 
clouds were at a higher elevation than has gener- 
ally been the case ; cirro-stratus ; color gray ; uni- 
form in 3ensity nearly over the entire field of view. 
Thick along the southeast, east, and northeast long 
before it shut down elsewhere. Evidently the 



212 JOURNAL. 

lower current of wind was from the east, while the 
wind on the summit was west-northwest. It was 
two hours from the time the Carter Range shut in 
before the summit was enveloped. The clouds 
poured over Mount Adams, and later over the 
dividing ridge between Mounts Washington and 
Clay. They seemed to curve, as they passed over 
these mountain tops, as though the upper currents 
of air conformed to the irregularities of surface. 
When there are two strata of clouds, they unite 
before the snow or rain falls, as a rule, though to- 
day snow fell an hour previous to the clouds set- 
tling on the mountain. 

March 31. A glorious sunrise. The Glen val- 
ley was ftdl of clouds, and ftirther east heavy masses 
of clouds covered the entire country as far as we 
could see. In other directions the clouds were few. 
As the sun shone over the clouds eastward, the dark 
heavy masses were tipped with light of silver bright- 
ness, while the borders were almost black, and the 
sun shone brightly on the protruding mountain tops, 
throwing deep purple shadows westward. 

Saturday^ April 1. What a change from last 
night to this morning ; then, at nine P. m. wind 
fifty, temperature 3° ; with every prospect for a cold 
day to follow. The wind is westerly. Although 
it is not above forty-nine, the cracking reports of 
the joints of the frame are loud enough to shake 



A CHARMING DAY. 213 

weak nerves. Really they are startling, more so in 
a comparative calm than when the wind is blowing 
a gale. 

These reports are never frequent in steady cold 
nor settled warm weather. They occur oftener as 
a cold term is changing to warm, and vice versa^ 
due in the one case to the expansion and in the 
other to the contraction of the wood. Last evening 
one was so heavy as to shake the house like a sud- 
den gust in a storm. 

To-day 64° in the sun at eleven a. m., after- 
wards cooler, 15° at nine p. m. Thawing all day 
in the sun, snow ^oing rapidly. Thick along the 
south and east all day. A northeast wind to night, 
seldom from that quarter. Light wind all day. 
These are the days calculated, if any are, to make 
us discontented, they so remind us of spring-time 
— and here ? 

Clough has had the good fortune to get several 
fine negatives. S. and I stood for figures in two, 
S. pointing to the icicles on the roof. 

Monday, April 3. Another charming day. Clough 
has gone to Littleton to return in a few days. S. 
and I baked a chicken for our principal dish on this 
day's dinner bill of fare. Too fine this morning to 
write, such a day is too rich in beautiful scenery to 
waste time in-doors. Our luxuries are few : in our 
larder, none; neither are there any in parlor. 



214 JOURNAL. 

library, or bed-chamber — yes, one in the parloir,^- 
a cane-seat rocking-chair. No true-born Yankee 
would think of housekejBping without one. 

But beyond the confines of these four walk we 
have choice things, in the grand scenery, cloud 
painting, sunrises and sunsets, moonlight such as 
is never seen but on mountain peaks. 

After dinner we went to the Tip-top House ; the 
view was magnificent. A soft haze over the whole 
expanse of country far as we could see north and 
south, east and west. Such is the atmosphere 
here, that although the thermometer in the shade 
marked 27°, I wore neither hat or coat, yet was 
warm enough. So fine § day suppose I pull on 
my boots and run down to Tuckerman's Ravine ? 
But then the steeps are glare ice, and it would 
be a rather hazardous undertaking; it might in- 
volve a broken leg or neck, and then possibly in 
either case, my companions would deem me an 
incumbrance, which is a consideration of account. 
How cozy ; what a home-like air our dark, nar- 
row, meanly furnished quarters have in a storm or 
when the wind blows ninety miles an hour ; but in 
such a day as this how like a prison-cell the place 
looks ! 

Tuesday^ April 4. All the forenoon till one P. 
M. the summit was in a dense cloud. Suddenly it 
lifted or passed off, and then we had the most gor- 



THE NEW REPUBLIC. 216 

geoiis display of cloud-scenes we have yet witnessed. 
Eastward masses of cumuli rested over the valleys 
and the mountains. Why not call them mountains 
of cloud ? Certainly. They rose far above our 
level, six thousand or perhaps eight thousand feet 
higher than this peak 1 They conformed to the 
heights over which they lay and seemed to envelop 
other mountains nearly as lofty as their upper limits. 
The illusion was perfect, and Mount Washington, 
in comparison, was a diminutive spur or outlying 
peak of this great mountain range. Without ever 
having seen the Alps I understood them better 
for having seen these cloud mountains. In other 
directions there were masses. 

The sun runs high, but we know nothing of 
spring. Truly it is more like winter than some of 
the time in March. Then there was no snow, now 
everywhere there is snow and ice. 

Professor raised our little flag the other day on 
the summit for the benefit of some friends in Lan- 
caster. He has no design of establishing an inde- 
pendent government, but S. and I have quietly 
done so, and this banner floating from tlie top of the 
mountain is that of the new Republic of Washing-* 
ton. We are getting along finely. We only lack 
three things to make our new government a suc- 
cess : a national debt, internal revenue, and two 
custom-houses, one on the carriage road and the 
other on the railway. 



216 JOURNAL. 

Wednesdai/^ April 5. The wind blew a gale 
last night, — had jtist gone to- bed when it com- 
menced. The building had a hegvy coating of ice 
on the east side and tons on the roof. Soon as the 
wind rose the ice began to fall. We were awake 
when the grand crash came, at first a few pieces, 
then with a roar like the stormy wind half of the 
great body on the roof started, and falling made 
everything tremble. The beds shook as in the 
hurricane of February. If we had not known the 
strength of the building — and severely it has been 
tested, — we might have thought that the roof had 
fallen in. It was startling to hear the roar and 
crash, and there was not for a while much disposi- 
tion to sleep. 

All day there has been a furious storm of snow 
— at one time wind 86 and temperature low as 2^. 
Nine p. m. wind 60, and clear. 

This afternoon we were surprised by the arrival 
of Messrs. Clougli and Cheney. They were some- 
what frost-bitten, ears, fingers, and feet, and it was 
doubtful, for a half hour, how badly. But now 
they are all right, though their hands and ears are 
considerably swollen. It is the toughest storm in 
which any party has made the ascent this winter. 

Professor H. pays no attention to the state of the 
weather in making his many journeys up and down, 
but he has never had a day quite so bad as this ; a 



TUCKERMAN'S RAVINE, 217 

day like this, or worse, would not stop him if he had 
arranged to make the trip. 

Thursday^ April 6. A clear sunrise — cold ; 
only 3°, the wind 20, and the morning view that of 
December. Though clear, the sun gave little heat, 
— a pale, white, rayless light ; the sky a light blue, 
and so clear that it seemed almost as though we 
could see beyond its bounds, or through it into the 
regions of space. 

Sunday^ April 9. After a bean breakfast, a 
party of four, Messrs. H., Andrews, Cheney, and 
myself, went to Tuckerman's Ravine. Professor 
led the way and took us to the head of the 
ravine, where we saw the snow arch that is to be 
in July, but now quite a stream poured over the 
cliff. All but Professor took part in rolling stones 
down the side of the ravine. We followed down 
the ravine on the north side to a bold point of rocks, 
some two hundred feet in height. Standing on this, 
we had a fine view. The ravine looks much more 
grand than it does from the side opposite ; and 
one should see it from several points of view before 
describing its claims to admiration. Hermit Lake 
is breaking up, and we could see through the trees 
the tiny stream which winds through the ravine 
and loses itself in the forests below. Down the 
mountain side, a thousand little rills, feeders of 
mighty rivers, make sweet music, sweeter to my 



218 JOURNAL, 

ear from my long stay where there is only ice and 
snow. Going down we had the pleasure of a little 
slide on the snow, a quarter of a mile or less, long 
enough, however. Coming up we had to climb, of 
course. At noon, Messrs. Andrews, Clough, and 
Cheney left for home. 

Wednesday^ April 12. A stormy day, knowing 
much of the time, and the wind as high as 60. 
Frost work forming again, and it really seems much 
like winter. None of us cared to go far to-day, so 
I got a pail of water from the spring near the house 
and took a look at the frost-work ; that is all the 
out-door exercise I have taken. Now we shall 
have a plenty as long as we stay ; we get it from a 
hole among the rocks and it is of excellent quality. 
We have not really suffered from the want of water 
at any time, but it has been rather rough sometimes 
getting ice. 

Saturday^ April 15. The rule holds good, no two 
days alike on Mount Washington. Professor called 
us out to see the sunrise. Over Berlin and all the 
country in that direction lay the most beautiful 
cumuli clouds. The shadow of Mount Washington 
was clearly outlined on the sky far above the hori- 
zon, and we might imagine for the last three days — 
while a dense cloud has covered the mountains and 
hills — that an array of giants had been at work cut- 
ting every mountain ridge into sharper outline, 



SPLENDID CLOUD EFFECTS, 219 

for they never before seemed to stand up chiseled so 
sharply. Chacorua seemed miles nearer than usual, 
resplendent in the bright sunlight. Through every 
rift in the clouds the sides of the chain north showed 
finely, while the summits were a blaze of light. 

The Glen and shaded sides of Carter Range were 
as dark as night, while just above the clouds were 
gorgeous with the play of colors. Let a painter 
throw as much light into a mountain view, or give 
such tints to the clouds, and shade as deeply as 
nature did in the picture she gave us this morning, 
and everybody would say " exaggerated." 

Ten hours we had splendid cloud effects in every 
direction. Cumuli north, in every form beautiful 
and fantastic, and colors as though some radiant 
angel had thrown aside his robe of light. 

But so much glory could not last, a cloud shut 
down, and we were snow-bound and cloud envel- 
oped the remainder of the day. 

Wednesday^ April 19. A splendid day; have 
been to the station ; a rough road to travel, but took 
the day for the trip. Dined at the lumber camp, 
and got back at six o'clock. Took down mail and 
brought some back, though little for myself. Not 
in luck for once, — can stand it if my correspond- 
ents can. 

Wednesday^ April 26. Profes&or Hitchcock, E, 
C. Burbeck, and Alonzo Hall climbed the summit 



220 JOURNAL. 

to-day, bringing with them a bouquet of scarlet 
geraniums and trailing arbutus, sent by a friend of 
the Expedition. 

ThurBday^ April 27. Went down the Crawford 
bridle-path to Mount Monroe ; then crossed Bige- 
low's lawn, and walked to Boott's Spur — not quite 
to the extreme point. Saw a few bu*ds ; couldn't 
make them out — don't know if they cared whether 
I did or not ; don't know as they had any curios- 
ity to ascertain who or what I was. Too much 
snow to find how the plants ^are coming on this 
spring-like weather. Found willows at the head 
of Tuckerman's ravine, showing their catkins half 
opened. Reached the summit at two p. M.,r— 
found S. down sick; he has been ill since Sun- 
day. Professor Hitchcock and Mr. Burbeck came 
in at five o'clock, quite tired ; had been to Mount 
Adams. Tough snow-storm to-night. Fine cloud 
effects this afternoon, as there was in the morning. 
Take morning views on hearsay, as I did not rise 
till breakfast-time. The others rose at 5.30. I had 
a fearful headache last night. Enjoyed my lonely 
walk to-day, — monarch of all I surveyed. It seems 
odd to see birds, while the adjacent peaks and 
others beyond are covered with snow, and to feel 
th?it it is really spring down in the world. Wind 
at Boott's Spur, southeast, thirty miles per hour 
when I left ; here same direction, eighteen miles per 



THAWING AND FREEZING. 221 

hour, whUe at the same moment on their way from 
Mount Adams Messrs. Hitchcock and Burbeck en- 
countered the wind moving at the rate of forty or 
fifty miles per hour. 

Friday^ April 28. Cloudy all day on the summit 
and at times rainy. At four p. m. started down 
the railroad expecting to meet Mr. Huntington 
and Mr. Holden. Went as far as Gulf Tank; 
encountered wind, rain, and sleet; had to keep 
in motion or freeze. Came back at 6.16, wet 
and covered with ice. Went down again at seven, 
sliding most of the way. When I reached the Tank, 
the clouds passed off, but the* storm was still raging 
below; had a magnificent view. To show the 
changes in temperature here, in a few feet of alti- 
tude, I note my trips down to-day and up as well. 
Left the house at 4.30 p. m., wind thirty miles, 
at the Lizzie Bourne monument forty, at the Gulf 
House ruins and below, fully sixty, thus reversing 
the order of things in regard to wind. Thermom- 
eter on the summit 28° ; frost-work forming some 
distance below the Monument. At the Gulf Tank, 
when the sun came out, as it did several times, the 
ice on my cap would thaw completely ; then while 
tlie cloud was passing, icicles two inches in length 
would form on the visor. It wa^ difficult to walk or 
even stand against the wind below the Gulf House 
ruins. Returning, the wind was not so violent ; rain 



222 JOURNAL. 

as far as the plateau, where they coDect water for the 
engine in summer ; mist on the summit, with ther- 
mometer 28° at 6.50. Went down again at seven 
p. M., cloud to the head of the Gulf and thawing as 
far as the tank, and water dropping from the trestle. 
A dead calm all the way. Every appearance of a 
rain-storm in the valley, probably as high as Waum- 
bek, for at times the storm-cloud came up to the very 
spot where I stood. The two H.'s did not arrive, 
but night did, and I came back to the summit, quite 
well satisfied with my last trip. 

Saturday^ April 29. One of the finest mornings 
of the winter. At first a sea of clouds east and 
northeast, later also on the west ; at seven A. m. in 
every direction. 

Professor Hitchcock and myself sat on the roof 
of the Tip-top House. A luminous corona, showing 
from one to three distinct circles with the prismatic 
cplors, was thrown upon the clouds around our 
shadows. It was in some respects like the spectre 
of the Brochen. In the afternoon the clouds cast 
their shadows on the mountains and over the val- 
leys ; of late this has been quite common, as the 
cumuli assume summer forms. 

Mr. Burbeck left this morning. Mr. Hun- 
tington, L. L. Holden, and E. Thompson came up. 
Mr. H. brought us all the late magazines, but no 
letters. Had rain at depot last night and high 
wind. 



"MAY MORNING.'* 223 

The sable was out this morning, but did not stop 
long to show himself. It is the first time I have seen 
him. S. has seen two ; they look plump and hearty, 
as though Mount Washington was a healthy cli- 
mate for them. 

Sunday^ April 30. Snowing most of the time — 
not a gleam of sunshine ; four inches of snow has fal- 
len. Sunday passed much as Sundays do down in 
the world when people don't go to church. We 
have had the past month more clouds than sunshine, 
more snow than rain ; light winds and few gales, 
the clouds often dense on the summit when clear 
below. Now only on the higher peaks, in the deep 
ravines, and a few places on wooded slopes is there 
snow. 

Monday y May 1. A fine sunrise for " May morn- 
ing." Clouds all about, and the summit was en- 
veloped, but here it was thin so that the sunlight 
streaming through gave the morning something tlie 
aspect of the sunrise scene of March 1st, only that 
was far more grand. This n\prning a sea of cloud 
covered the whole extent of country, north and 
south, east and west, Mount Washington alone ris- 
ing above the aerial ocean. Over Mount Adams 
the cloud was higher than the summit of Washing- 
ton ; on the other side Tuckerman's Ravine looked 
twice as prominent as usual, and like the deep, 
black gulf it is, when clouds overshadow it. The 



224 JOURNAL, 

lighter cloads passing between us and the sun threw 
a twilight gloom over all, then as they sailed .away 
down the valley a golden flood of light diffused 
itself over the mountain and cloudy sea below. 
The misty clouds above were constantly changing 
from gray to purple, and occasionally crimson tinged 
their edges. 

Mr. H. and Mr. Holden saw from the sum- 
mit, westward, a corona, similar to that observed 
by Professor Hitchcock and myself a few mornings 
since. This morning there was the shadow of 
Mount Washington on the clouds. It is a pleasing 
spectacle, but by no means so interesting as when 
the mountain is shadowed on the eastern sky. 
Beautiful frost-work formed last night ; even the 
surface of the snow as well as rocks and build- 
ings is covered with it. May-day, and still it is 
winter ; every aspect is that of midwinter. The 
spring near the Observatory remains frozen solid, 
and so we daily melt ice for use, and yet down the 
mountain a half mile there is seldom a day when 
the streams are not running. 

About one p. m. the clear sky disappeared and 
clouds prevailed over sunshine the rest of the day, 
— snowing at intervals through the afternoon, and 
quite severely in the evening. 

Prof. Hitchcock left for Hanover, at noon, before 
the storm set in. Soon after he went a man from 



A TRAMP TO TEE RAVINES. 225 

the depot came up with a message to transmit to 
Franklin, N. H. Good for the Mount Washington 
office, that people should come to this far-away 
place to communicate with the world I Our visitor 
reports a heavy rain at Marshfield yesterday. 

Tuesday^ May 2. A wintry sunrise scene, then 
clouds on the mountains, passing off at noon. Tak- 
ing advantage of the day, Mr. Holden and myself 
set out for Tuckerman's. Found more snow than 
on the 9th ult. Sunlight, bright and warm there, 
but over Washington a dense cloud most of £he after- 
noon. The air spring-like, as were the surround- 
ings ; little snow except at the head of the Ravine, 
where the arch will be looked for in vain next sum- 
mer, unless May makes up for the short-comings of 
winter. Hermit Lake really breaking up, and the 
stream open above. We could see the pretty cas- 
cade some distance above the lake ^ and hear the 
rushing waters, now loudly, as the wind arose, now 
"Softly murmuring as it fell. Half way down the 
northern side, under a sheltering rock, we lunched 
on hard-tack and sugar, drinking the pure water of 
a little rill which ran down among the rocks. Then 
for an hour we climbed the crags, getting views from 
many different points. Found fine specimens of 
mosses and secured a few specimens of insects, two 
of which, were the more interesting, as they were 
new to me. Came away at three P. m., too early 

15 



226 JOURNAL, 

to go home, so decided on a trip to the northeastern 
spur of Washington. Passed a deep spring of ex- 
cellent water which in my jaunts I had never seen, 
then visited the ravine beyond, — our first visit. 
In some respects this is even more interesting than 
Tuckerman's, for what is lacking in extent is made 
up in the boldness of outline, its steep, sloping 
northern side and sheer precipice of two hundred 
feet or more on the south. Seven seconds was the 
time taken, by repeated trials, for a stone to reach 
the bottom. Professor says that it bears no name. 
We propose that HuntingtorC % Ravine shall be its 
future designation. A " thousand rills " run down 
its western side — the head, — joining in forming 
a stream below. Away, among the wood, half a 
mile perhaps, the rushing sound of a cascade was 
distinctly heard. Professor says that it is a very 
beautiful fall, and scarcely ever visited. This ravine 
is worth exploring. 

Went to the extreme point of the spur, — Mount 
Washington summit. The Glen and Great Gulf 
are all well seen from this point. Home at five p. 
M., much of the way through a cloud, satisfied with 
our rambles on the mountain. 

Prof. Hitchcock telegraphs his arrival at Littleton. 

Temperature at seven p. m. 26°. A dense, 
black cloud lying along the south indicates a storm 
not far distant. 



BIRDS IN THE HOUSE, 227 

Wedne»day^ May 3. Snowing all night and cloudy 
all day, — a dull, quiet day, more disagreeable than 
the fiercest storm. We have all spoiled much good 
paper to-day, — Professor, Holden, ThT)mpson, and 
myself. Mr. Smith sick, seems no better ; a rough 
place to be sick, in — safe from the doctors, he has 
that comfolt I 

At 5.30 p. M. we — Professor and I — got in a 
supply of ice. At the time, the cloud was so dense 
that from the Tip-top House the Observatory could 
not be seen ; fifteen minutes later the cloud passed off 
and there was a most magnificent outlook. Below, 
an ocean of cloud, calm and unruffled as an inland 
lake ; above, but quite low, the upper current of 
storm-cloud ; far away north, a line of clear sky ; 
south, heavy masses of cloud shutting out the dis- 
tance. We could mark the line of a storm bearing 
down upon this section, a grand sight. At nine 
p. M. snowing. 

Thursday^ May 4. Another tough snow-storm ; 
we enjoy it ; might as well find pleasure in it, 
for endure these frequent changes we must if not 
enjoy them. One fine day is full compensation for 
a week of stormy wintry weather, and then, what 
did we come here for but to study storms ? Wind 
got up to 48 and temperature down to 21°. 

One pair of birds have made the house their 
home of late. To-day especially they have hardly 



228 JOURNAL. 

been out. This afternoon they have sung several 
songs for our benefit. They are quite tame. To- 
night they sit on the beam over this room close by 
tlie flue, and we can occasionally hear them twitter, 
softly calling to each other. 

Prof. Hitchcock reports by telegraph, rain at 
Hanover all day. Now, ten p. M., the storm is 
increasing in fury and really might almost rank 
with those of last December. 

Professor and Mr. H. were out this morning 
at 4.30 ; had a rare sunrise to repay them for ris- 
ing at so unseasonable an hour ; the rest of us pre- 
ferred our morning nap, so we only had the storm, 
for the cloud shut down at six o'clock. 

Friday^ May 5. The storm — snowing in such 
a wintry way last night — turned to rain toward 
morning and has been rainy all day. About seven 
p. M. the cloud lifted, settled, or dissipated, — cannot 
say which as I was not out at the time. Then we 
had a grand sea of cloud — a display we never tire 
of, — north and west far as the horizon, south for 
nearly an hundred miles, and east quite to central 
Maine. Excepting Lafayette and Adams, and a bit 
of the Saco valley, the whole country was befogged. 
The upper strata of clouds were mixed in the most 
confused manner; it would have puzzled Espy. to 
have given them names, and for that matter names 
were of little consequence, for the coloring was 



A SEA OF CLOUDS. 229 

that which gave them the greatest interest in our 
eyes. I did, however, write out in its proper 
place a dry description ; the colors and shades 
ran through the list ; such changes, such inter- 
mingling of colors, the brilliancy, the delicacy, 
was beyond belief. The time 7.30. Then there 
was repeated, on the dull, cold, gray clouds below, 
the changing hues of the higher clouds, from a 
pearly whiteness to rose, fading out to gray, not 
once but several times, the last lingering beams 
slowly dying away into the blackness of night. 
As late as eight o'clock, after the stars could be 
seen in the east, the lower clouds retained some 
color. 

The wind was west here, not higher than five, 
yet in the valleys it must have been much stronger, 
judging by the velocity of the clouds ; besides we 
could hear distinctly its almost roar. While west 
the clouds had a rapid movement, over Ellis River 
they were stationary. 

S. has been ill to-day. T.'s lame foot is better, 
and everything in our little world has moved in 
the usual regular course. To-morrow, if fair, some 
of us go to Mount Adams. The mountains are 
covered with snow. Surely, it cannot yet be 
spring ! 

Saturday^ May 6. Mr. Holden and myself 
have made that long contemplated trip to Mount 



230 JOURNAL. 

Adams. Just what object we had in going I can- 
not say, neither can he tell, for when I put the 
question to him as we were toiling up one of the 
ugly steeps of Mount Jefferson on our homeward 
way, he said — nothing. So I am confident that 
he had nothing to say. 

This is the only explanation I can give, as I sit 
here to-night, foot-sore, wet, and weary, with the. 
day's tramp fresh in mind : Mount Adams, in the 
majestic style he has been wearing for the past 
week, while we have made our minor tours around 
the ravines of this mountain, seemed to defy us ; 
and so without unnecessary delay we were detei 
mined to dine or lunch the first fair day on Mount 
Adams. Then, Prof. Hitchcock and Mr. Burbeck 
had paid the old fellow ^ visit, — the fii^st persons, 
probably, who ever made the trip in April, and if 
they were the first visitors of .this season, there 
was no reason why we should not be the second 
party. 

This morning was one of the best for the in- 
tended journey, — clear, calm, and warm. The 
thermometer at eight o'clock indicated 85° in the 
sun, — warmest morning this spring. Though clear 
above, the valleys were full of cloud ; we did not 
fear to be clouded in, as we had a compass. Filling 
our pockets with hard-tack and taking a canteen 
for water, at about nine o'clock we started. The 



AOUNT ADAMS. 231 

wind was northwest here ; at the foot of Mount 
Clay it was east and chilling. So far the walking 
was excellent, the snow hard as ice. There we 
stood, on the level of the clouds to the west and 
above those east. Skirting along the east side of 
the first peak of Clay we made slow progress. 
While resting, the clouds settled in the Gulf, and 
we had a good point from which to get a clear idea 
of the immensity of the mountain — Washington, — 
and of the depth and breadth of the Gulf. As the 
distance is short, visitors ascending the mountain 
might find themselves well- repaid if they would 
not, only view the Gulf from the head, which is 
a very advantageous position, but also from Mount 
Adams, — so we agreed as we sat there. Going 
to the highest point of the dividing ridge of Clay 
and Jefferson, we could hear on the one side the 
rushing, roaring sound of the falls in the Gulf and 
the smoother flow of Jefferson brook on the other. 
We could see nothing, as all below was covered by 
clouds. 

In places the mountain side was free from snow, in 
others the snow was many feet deep. On the more 
level places it was thawing, and before we reached 
the base of Jefferson our boots were thoroughly 
soaked. Climbing Jefferson we rested, and while so 
doing amused ourselves in building our monument 
in case we should perish on the way. At the sum- 



232 JOURNAL. • 

mit we found the wind to be northwest, as we after- 
wards found it on Mount Adams, while both going 
over and returning it was easterly at lower levels. 

There we saw that Lafayette was under a cloud, 
and that on the west the great body of cloud had 
risen nearly to the summit of Washington. I have 
been here long enough to learn that when Wash- 
ington is enveloped, it means a cloudy day for 
Mount Adams. While debating whether to go on 
or give up the trip, a dense and extended body of 
cloud passed between us and Adams, and this de- 
cided us to push on.- Down the steep eastern 
side of Jefferson in sunshine is bad enough, in the 
twilight gloom of a dense, damp cloud, that wets 
one as though he had been immersed in an ice 
chilled bath, it is anything but agreeable. But 
the cloud passing, we were so fortunate as to reach 
the head of the ravine between Jefferson and 
Adams just in time to get a good view of its huge 
dimensions. There we could almost see, under the 
cloud, the forest at the foot of the mountains. Again 
the cloud shut in and we went on. 

And now our tramp was over the dwarf trees — 
we took the south side of the ridge — and through 
the snow, sometimes waist-deep, always over our 
boot-tops. Coming out of the cloud once more, and 
for the last time, we saw the lofty summit of Mount 
Washington, then far above the clouds, and we 



IMMENSITY OF WASHINGTON. 238 

heard the cheers of our comrades at the Observa- 
tory. We could hardly credit our ears, for it is 
nearly or quite three and a half miles in an air line 
from point to point. But the successive cheers 
came to us so clearly that we could doubt no longer, 
and then we sent back an answering shout. How 
hot it was under the shelter of the mountain-side 1 
not a piiff of wind, but plenty of ice-cold water, and 
of that we drank freely. Adams seemed miles away,' 
and the harder we toiled the less near seemed the 
goal. Half a mile of this weary work over the 
snowy plateau, and we began to climb the rocks 
again, — this was easy compared with plunging 
through the snow, — and resting often, we, at one 
P. M., gained the summit. To repay for our long 
walk, we saw a sea of cloud that we might have 
seen without going a rod from the door, if we had 
been content to stay at home. 

But we had something which we cannot have on 
Mount Washington, — an idea of the immensity of 

the monarch himself — the grandeur, the overshad- 

» 

owing majesty of this king among kingly mountains. 
This view alone was worth all the day's toil. I 
have seen Washington from several points ; this I 
deem the best. 

A gentle summer breeze played about the peak 
and the sun shone bright above, but beyond the 
narrow limits of the mountains, the cloud rested 
everywhere. 



234 JOURNAL. 

About two o'clock we saw by the increasing vol- 
ume of cloud that we were likely 4;o be forced to 
find our road back by the aid of the compass, and 
unwillingly we turned our faces homeward. Going 
down we remembered the advice of Professor 
Hitchcock, to keep the height of land, and doing 
so made an easy descent. 

At the base of Jefferson again encountered a 
dense cloud, which came along just in time to catch 
us. Didn't Jefferson loom twice as high for our 
weariness — twice as high as the measurements 
make it ? It did ; but an hour's toil, and we stood 
on the summit, then far above the cloud. Adams 
showed only the highest point, and elsewhere all 
was in cloud ; even for a time Washington was hid- 
den. And then the downward way to the peaks 
of Clay — three in the morning — thirty we thought 
before we crossed the last and stood facing our 
summit home ; and how lost in the cloud as the last 
height of Clay deceiving us, we supposed it to be 
our own Mount Washington ; shall we ever for- 
get these and the incidents of the day? Think 
not — not soon. That glorious lighting up of the 
western sky as the sun went down — the moment 
when sky and cloud became so intermingled and 
the whole was like a sea of molten gold reflected 
on a sky of crimson, blue, and gold ; and the closing 
scene the Battle of the Clouds, when east and west 



EXCITEMENTS OF LIFE. 286 

met over the ridge of Clay, and darting sharp flashes 
of electric fire from one to the other, then closing, 
the west drove back the east — a grand finale to 
so gorgeous a sunset. 

We found on reaching home that the members 
of the party here had seen us through the Tolles 
and Army telescopes much >of the day ; saw us 
raise our flag on Adams ; saw us as we lunched ; and 
in fact knew our every movement, whenever the 
clouds permitted them to see us. They did not 
claim to have overheard our conversation — it is a 
wonder they did not, possessing such excellent tele- 
scopes I 

They were put watching for us, and, as we came 
up tlie track, greeted us with congratulations. We 
have narrated to them our adventures, trifling as 
they are, and they have related the doings on the 
summit the livelong day ; the sudden changes of rel- 
ative humidity ; that the temperature was 56° at one 
time ; and how they all have spent the day : these 
little things make the excitements of life on Mount 
Washington, insignificant as they may appear to 
the world outside our circle. Found many insects, 
even on the summit of Adams. 

I am going to bed to dream of falling down the 
snow-slide at the head of the Gulf, which little feat 
I might have performed but for the greater caution 
of my friend Holden. 



286 JOURNAL. 

I must add one item. H. and myself have passed 
judgment on the mountains we visited to-day. 
Briefly it is, that Clay is a blunder — a failure as a 
mountain — the whole family of Clay being repre- 
sented in its many yet useless peaks — useless for 
any purpose but to worry the toiling traveler ; that 
Jefferson is well worth a visit, and Adams, above all, 
grand. The whole route is interesting for its wild 
scenery, often rising to the sublime. Bold clifi&^ 
deep ravines, high rocks and beetling crags, cozy 
nooks and places where the sun never sends a 
beam. Now, 10.30 p. m., it is raining \ what a- 
country ! 

Sunday^ May 7. The barometer fell 50-lOOths 
from last night at nine o'clock to this morning at 
seven o'clock. Wind rising at three a. m., reaching 
the highest velocity at two p. m., which was 67 ; 
highest recorded for some time, quite strongly re- 
minding us of the winter months. Snowing all 
day ; the whirling, driving clouds of snow made it 
far from pleasant to stay out for three minutes, 
the time occupied in taking the force of the wind. 
Mr. Holden had that honor conferred more than 
once upon him. 

At five p. M. the cloud passed off and we could 
see that not the mountains alone, but the lower 
country as well, was " snow-bound." At 9.40 



A QUIET SUNDAY, 237 

P. M., snowing again. Temperature, two p. M., 21® 
highest for the day; and 19°, at nine p. m. 

No church-bells rang out for us the call to morn- 
ing service. Really, now I write of church-bells 
ringing for Sunday service, it strikes my fancy that 
I should enjoy hearing them ; since the 19th De- 
cember I have not heard them — may not for a 
month to come. 

As there was no church-going for us, H. and I 
slept late, and rose tired and lame from the ten- 
mile tramp of yesterday. Ten miles I if properly 
distributed, they would make fifty on a decent road ! 

Littleton reported, at 4.30 p. m., that it had 
been rainy, but was clearing away. 

Nine p. m. We have had a quiet Sunday in- 
doors ; anything but that outside now ; none of 
the family have attended church, nor have we had 
callers. We have passed the day in reading. The 
wind is higher than an hour ago and we may get a 
rough night. 

Monday^ May 8. We did have a rough night, 
called the wind 80 at midnight. Of course there 
was considerable pressure on the house, and the re- 
sultant creaking and cracking of the building, the 
jarring and rocking, were all very creditable for a 
May storm. 

Temperature, seven a. m., 15®. Professor found 
the wind-vane, it was carried away last night by 



238 JOURNAL. 

the spindle breaking — a quarter-inch rod. The 
wind last night was at no time below 60, and as high 
much of the time to-day ; since three p. m. rising, 
and the barometer rapidly falling ; at two p. m. it 
was 23.01^5, the lowest for some weeks. At two 
p. M. temperature 18® and wind 62. Ten p. m., snow- 
ing, and wind more moderate. The frost-work is 
heavy and fine ; on the house it points in every 
conceivable direction, showing that it was formed in 
the eddies, and of course against the wind. 

None (Ml the sick-list to-day. Holden is embar- 
goed but manages to make himself comfortable. 
The Handel and Haydn Society will have to excuse 
him to-morrow night. He could not desert if he 
would, and I do not think he will try it, to-night at 
least. 

A wild-cat was here last night ; did not come 
in, but contented himself with caterwauling outside 
the premises. It might, possibly, have thought it 
was paying us a high compliment in so vigorous 
an exhibition of its musical powers ; if so, never a 
more mistaken puss. More likely there was a dis- 
pute between Master Sable, whom we consider one 
of our party, and said feline as to the right of way, 
or for the ownership of a poor little mouse. H. 
and I saw their tracks Saturday, just below the 
summit ; we have seen them before, but more gen 
erally since May came in. 



FROST WORK. 239 

Tuesday^ May 9. Clouds off and on till five 
p. M., when they disappeared entirely. The wind 
fell away towards midnight, and has been steady 
to-day at about 35, though now, nine f. m., nearly 
calm. Wind northwest all day ; it may storm by 
tomorrow. 

Mountain peaks white as winter, but the valleys 
are bare — even at the Glen House there is no 
snow. A fine aurora to-night — arch, without dark 
underlying cloud or streamers. 

And the frost-work has seldom been more beau- 
tiful. Thompson and I measured some feathers 
to-day. On a tall pole at the Tip-top House, found 
them thirty-six inches in length, and on a rock 
south of the house, forty-nine in length and fifteen 
broad. This last formation is very beautiful, but 
does not present such varied shapes as during the 
winter and last month. Yet there has never been 
the time when the trestle of the railway just below 
the observatory, or the Bourne monument, gave a 
better idea of the exceeding beauty of the finer 
specimens of this most charming feature of the win- 
ter scenery of the mountains. They might be pure, 
solid frost-work, for all one can see of either wood 
or stone. 

Messrs. Holden and Thompson left this afternoon 
at one o'clock. Both S. and myself have been on 
the sick-list to-day. 



240 JOURNAL. 

Our birds have been merry to-day ; they sing 
sweetly and appear to enjoy these comfortable quar- 
ters like sensible birds as they are. They do not 
think of venturing out during storms or when the 
weather is at all inclement. Monday night one of 
these birds roomed with us, making the anemome- 
ter its perch; seemed perfectly at home after it 
had concluded to stay. 

This morning was fine, pleasant, nothing remark- 
able about it, unless to see the sun once more was 
an event worth recording, and most assuredly, we 
shall soon begin to think even a clear sunrise to be 
quite an event ; for " cloud on the mountain,'* is 
the almost daily entry in the Register. And so after 
all the fine morning it commenced to snow at 9 
o'clock, and continued to all day at intervals, and 
we had the usual amount of cloud. 

Professor found to-day some beautiful fi'ost-wings ; 
just as perfect in form and feathering as a real 
wing ; they were very beautiful indeed. 

Thursday^ May 11. A wintry sky and winter 
scenery this morning ; the sky a pale blue and the 
sunshine that of December. The clouds presented, 
an infinite variety of shades — gray, brown, and 
dingy black; distant mountains showed clear-cut 
outlines ; snowy peaks of the higher mountains glis- 
ten in the morning light. Looking beyond them 
we see a change ; the Androscoggin is broader and 



A RARE EVENING. 241 

its waters sparkle in the play of sunlight ; the val- 
leys are bare and brown. Last winter the river 
was a silver thread, the lowlands white as are these 
summits now. Only these differences between a 
pleasant morning last December and this. 20° at 
seven a. m. 

Soon the clouds settled down and we were shut 
in the remainder of the day till near sunset. Then 
the sun tried to throw a little glow over the scene, 
but miserably failed and angrily went to bed — the 
clouds, though broken, were too dense. 

Later in the evening it was clear, and the stars 
shone brilliantly ; starlight on the mountain is not 
the passionless thing it is below the clouds. A 
rare, mre evening. 

Mr. Huntington expects to leave us soon. How 
quickly the winter has passed spite of storms, hur- 
ricanes,^ and clouds — of discomfort, and rather hard 
fare and the many deprivations. S. is still far from 
well. To endure, without suffering in some re- 
spect, the sudden changes of weather, one needs 
an iron constitution ; and any one that stays here 
should have a will equally as strong. It is hard 
on an invalid — I can bear testimony to that. 

Temperature 27^ at two p. m^ and the same at 
nine p. m. 

Friday^ May 12. A sunrise bright and fair as 
ever poet raved about or painter dreamed. And 

16 



242 JOURNAL. 

the day was lovely simply because it was spring-like ; 
the sunset charming. Half an hour before sunset 
a crimson glow came creeping out of the west and 
diffused itself over the broad expanse of country 
north. Mount Washington was under the shadow 
of the heavy upper stratum of cloud, but the crim- 
son light resting on mountains and valleys, lakes 
and rivers, below and far across the Canada border, 
so nearly touched Mount Washington that its 
southern bounds were within twenty miles. Later, 
the crimson was followed by broad bands of varying 
brown and purple, the shades constantly changing, 
and finally, as the sun went down, all color faded 
into gray. The south lay under a dense, black 
cloud; in the east was the darkness of night, in^ 
tensely deep, the gloom the more from contrast 
with the radiant west. In the evening an interest- 
ing auroral display — streamers with a dark under- 
lying cloud broken on its upper edge. 

The last Press telegram goes to-night. Nor 
shall we any longer have pleasant evening chats 
with Professor Hitchcock at Hanover. S. is at the 
depot to-night, and the telegraph has no word for 
us. 

Professor and I writing all day ; wished much 
to take a walk, but were unable. 

Saturday^ May 13. A really fine sunrise — but 
here it does not follow by any means that the day 



HUNTINGTON LEAVES. 243 

will prove the same^ and so about nine a. m. there 
were " clouds on the mountain " and snow- squalls 
much of the time afterwards. The wind worked 
up to 50 at 10.30 p. m., when we concluded to let it 
blow, as we could not prevent it so doing, and now 
we are going to bed. 

Well, if the half-dozen almanacs on the shelf 
did not say that it was May we might think we 
had missed one of the winter months. How the 
wind howls ^ — charming for " merrie month of 
May ! " 

If Thomson — the poet I mean — not my Mend 
T., who is not a poet — were here to-night he 
would sing another strain than — 

" Forth fly the tepid airs ; and unconfined, 
Unbinding earth, the moving softness strajs." 

Not a bit of it. But this is the climate of Lab- 
rador, and there is no reason to find fault with it — 
a most excellent climate too — of its kind. 

Sunday^ May 14. The wind was high as 80, if 
not higher, during the night. All day, as usual, it 
has been cloudy, and frost-work forming. Tem- 
perature at seven a. m. was 11°, and highest for the 
day at nine p. m., 21°. At no time the wind 
lower than 46. Mr. Huntington left at nine a. m. 
in the face of a forty-eight mile gale and the tem- 
perature only 14°. I am anxious for his safety and 
shall be till S. returns. 



244 JOURNAL, 

To-night, for the first time, I am keeping " watch 
and ward " on the mountain top alone. Am rather 
pleased with the novelty of the situation ; and quite 
enjoy the gale. I have been listening to winds and 
studying the many different sounds. There is the 
uninterrupted rumble of the wind and click and 
creak of the frame of the building niore particu- 
larly noticeable in the outer room. As heard here 
it is like the sound of factory machinery as one may 
hear it on a summer's day, at a distance. The 
windows and boarding as they give and rebound 
creak intermittently. Without are the chains clank- 
ing, thumping, and rattling, sometimes sounding like 
a ship's cable running out in casting anchor. When 
the wind blows steadily it gives the building a rock- 
ing motion ; eddying, it converts the vibratory to a 
jarring action. Now scarcely audible, its sound is 
that of summer breeze, a gentle murmur ; now husky 
and muffled as the wind which precedes the storm, 
now high-sounding and clamorous, it rises and 
gives the house a violent shaking, bringing out 
clearly its every creak and groan from the strain- 
ing frame ; the walls give back a dull booming, like 
distant artillery practice, as they rebound when the 
wind lets go its hold. Now it dies away into a soft 
whisper and for a few minutes there is a lull — - a 
dead calm more disagreeable in its death-like still- 
ness than the roar and howl of the hurricane in its 
fiercest anger. 



CONCLUSION. 245 

And this night's gale is similar to the heavy ones, 
the hurricanes, differing onTy in the greater force 
of those. 

As I sit here to-night I do not feel as though I 
was alone ; admit to a slight degree of sadness as I 
saw Mr. Huntington go out into the storm. I had 
so much anxiety on his account — that perhaps pre- 
vented my thinking much about this parting being 
final so far as Mount Washington is concerned. 

I have wished that my bird-companions would 
sing a little song, but it is too cold. They appear 
to be very comfortable and contented. When I go 
into their room, they seem glad to see me and give 
an answering chirp to my greetings. 

The wind now is about 50 or 55. I have made 
the last observation, and am going to bed to sleep 
just as soundly as though there were a half-dozen 
good fellows to keep me company. 

CONCLUSION. 

The winter's work is done. We trust that has 
not been time and labor lost. Storms of unpar- 
alleled severity, when for days in successiop Jbhe 
suifimit was enveloped in clouds and the hurricanes 
lasted longer and were more violent than any yet 
recorded in the United States, together with very 
low temperatures, have been a part of our experi- 
ence. 



V 



246 JOURNAL. 

Jnst such an experience has seldom before been 
the lot of human beings. Though interestipg, these 
grand atmospheric disturbances are not the most 
enjoyable features of mountain life. 

And ours has been the good fortune to witness 
some of the most magnificent winter scenery upon 
which mortal eyes ever rested ; scenery of tran- 
scendent grandeur, and views surpassingly beau- 
tiftd. 

There were mornings when the atmosphere was 
so transparent and the sky So pure a blue, with not 
a fleck of cloud, the snowy mountain-peaks so daz- 
zlingly white, their forms so clearly outUned and 
standing up in such bold relief, that they seemed 
the creation of yesterday; and mornings when 
earth and sky, forests, lakes, and rivers, and the 
clouds above wore a radiance and richness of color 
never seen in other than mountain regions and 
from the loftiest elevations. 

There were days when the shifting views of each 
hour fiirnished new wonders and new beauties, in 
the play of sunlight and changing cloud-forms, every 
hour a picture in itself and perfect in details. Sun- 
sets, too, when an ocean of cloud surrounded this 
island-like summit, the only one of all the many 
high peaks visible above the cloud billows, all else 
of earth hidden from sight ; there were times when 
this aerial sea was burnished silver, smooth and 



CHANGE OF SCENE, 247 

calm, and times when its tossing waves were tipped 
with crimson and golden fire. 

There were mornings and evenings and whole 
days when the winds were hushed and a soft haze 
rested over everything, making the distant out-look 
much like that of summer. 

Although our situation has been very much an 
isolated one, and the area of our little world lim- 
ited, our daily life has not been without incident or 
void of interest, to us at least. But now, our work 
being done, we go down to the busy world once 
more. And though we look forward to the change 
with anticipations of pleasure, we shall half-regret- 
fuUy turn our backs upon this majestic old moun- 
tain whose cloud-enveloped summit has so long been 
our home. 

The days of canned-beef, " hard-tack," and coffee 
will soon be counted among the things of the past. 
Gone are the long days and longer nights when the 
stoves failed to comfortably warm the little room, 
though we kept them at a red heat, and when the 
thermometer indicated 65** near the stove, and 4** 
at the floor ten feet distant. So are the long pe- 
riods when we received no news from below the 
clouds, and the longer weeks when no visitor could 
think of making our quarters his temporary home. 

Days of storm and gloom and piercing cold; 
times when the line is down and we are then as 



248 JOURNAL, 

effectually cut off from communication with man- 
kind as if we were dwellers on another planet, — 
these are days never to be forgotten. And there 
have been those days which we shall ever remem- 
ber for their splendors, and beautiful ones that 
seemed more of heaven than earth, and nights 
which made the complement of such days. 

A party of three brought into so close relations 
as we were, incur the risk of finding each other dis- 
agreeable companions, especially where, a? in this 
case, they happened to be entire strangers. Our 
intercourse has ever been pleasant. It is doubtful 
if three coming together by chance, often find their 
tastes arid sympathies so generally in harmony. 

Having an equal interest in the work, and feeling 
our situation to be one where we were mutually 
dependent for help in sickness, for our pleasures, 
for companionship, for everything that made our 
isolated life endurable, we have passed the winter 
pleasantly. 

Though less intimately connected with us, we 
consider the other members of the party as belong- 
ing to the Observatory, and we shall ever remember 
with pleasure the happy days spent in their society. 

The larger part of the time there was telegraphic 
communication with Littleton, and this had a ten- 
dency to make us more contented than we should 
otherwise have been. Triweekly the line was con- 



THE TELEGRAPH, 249 

nected with the private office of Professor Hitchcock 
at Hanover, and daily with L. Through the kind 
offices of the operator at L., Mr. Currier, who has 
been veiy obHging, and the though tfulness of Pro- 
fessor Hitchcock, we received both foreign and 
home news. Reading telegraphic news from Paris, 
as soon as people in the seaboard cities, was not an 
uncommon occurrence. News thus received has a 
flavor to it that people who have the daily papers 
cannot appreciate. 

In closing, I would remark that this Journal was 
never intended for publication, being merely daily 
notes for future reference ; hence its imperfections. 
I have culled from each day's record such portions 
as seemed most suitable for this work. Meteoro- 
logical notes are generally omitted for the reason 
that the subject is fully treated in other chapters. 

Long descriptions of sceneiy for like cause are 
not given. To me, my- journal is a portfolio of 
sketches, and these pen jottings faithfully picture 
the scenes I have witnessed, however much they 
may lack expression to those who have not seen 
these or similar scenes. 

The record of our daily life has rarely been 
transferred to these pages, in fact but little of it re- 
corded. Its trials and vexations and petty cares 
are so very like those of any family living under 
civilized rules and governed by the customs bred of 



250 • JOURNAL, 

habit, which even Uving on a mountain in winter 
one does not willingly give up, — they are so like 
these, that the mistress of any household in the 
land may with safety exercise the Yankee privi- 
lege of " guessing," with the assurance that she 
cannot guess far from the truth. 

In making the selections I have aimed to give 
the reader some idea of what mountain scenery in 
winter is, and also what life on the mountain is, from 
our daily experience. 

My wish is that every one so desiring might 
see something of the winter scenery of the 
mountains. May the day be not far distant when. a 
hotel shall be maintained here in winter as well as 
in summer ! 





CHAPTER XV. 




MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

AVING made a visit to the scientific party 
on Mount Washington early in February, 
I was desirous of looking in upon them 
again sometime about the incomirrg of the " merrie 
month of May," when the rigors of winter were 
supposed, in the lower world, at least, to have 
melted before the blandness of spring. With this 
end in view, I set out from Boston, Thursday, 
April 27. It was a bright, sunny, genial morning, 
filled with the joyful promises of the summer soon 
to come. The workers in the fields had thrown off 
their coats while following the plough, and the pas- 
sengers were content to admit the pure, bracing air 
through the open car windows. It seemed impos- 
sible that a single day's journey could bring forth 
the slightest reminder of winter, now long past and 
gone. Any one who has taken the railroad ride 
from Boston mountainward, through Lowell and up 
the Merrimac valley to Concord, and thence over 
the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, ^*^*^^ 



252 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

not be told of the delights of the journey. For 
mQes one is borne along the banks of the broad, 
swelling Merrimac, amid scenes of peaceful beauty, 
with brief halts at the busy marts which have 
sprung up here and there by its side. By noon the 
shores of the broad and beautiful Lake Winnipi- 
seogee are reached, and across its fair expanse we 
catch some glorious glimpses of the lower ranges of 
mountains. Farther northward we join the Pemi- 
gewasset and Baker's Rivers and are soon ushered 
into the presence of some of the noble hills which 
form the western outposts of the Franconia range. 
Emerging from among these, we strike across to the 
banks of the Connecticut, in the seemingly bound- 
less town of Haverhill, and after gaining the en- 
chanting view which opens for a long distance 
southward, once more seek the companionship of 
the hills by winding along the course of the swift 
gliding Ammonoosuc, almost to the heart of the 
great mountains themselves. The journey is at all 
times enjoyable, and especially so was it at this 
time, when the clear spring atmosphere gave even to 
far distant objects great distinctness. At Manches- 
ter I was joined by Professor Huntington, who had 
come down from the mountain a day or two before 
to fulfill a lecture engagement, and at Wells River, 
Mr. Eben Thompson, a member of the Scientific 
Class of Dai'tmouth College, was added to our little 
party. 



A WINTRY STORM. 258 

WINTER LINGERS IN THE LAP OF SPRING, 

Leaving the cars at Whitefield, the nearest rail- 
road point on the western approach to Meant 
Washington, we carried out our prearranged pro- 
gramme of driving over to the White Mountain 
House the same evening, despite gathering clouds 
ivhich threatened a severe storm. We had not 
proceeded far on our twelve miles' ride before the 
storm burst upon us in great fury, and for the 
greater part of the way we were compelled to face 
the fierce assaults of rain, hail, and sleet. The 
ferocity of the storm was greater on the summits of 
the Carroll hills than anywhere else, except, per- 
haps, on the entrance to the plateau below the 
\yhite Mountain House, where the wind swept up 
from the direction of the Notch with really tremen- 
dous force. Iq both places the hail beat against our 
&ces like showers of needle points. By the time 
we had reached the White Mountain House we 
were chilled to the extent that we could hardly 
move, and drenched to the very skin. The ground 
was whitened by snow and the wintry landscape 
was in very strange contrast with the vernal and 
sunny scenes of the morning. We awoke Friday 
morning to find the storm somewhat abated, and 
the snow already melted, and in order that we 
might lose no time in gaining the top of the moun- 



254 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

tain, we drove oyer to the depot of the Mount 
Washington Railway, seven miles distant from the 
White Mountain House, immediately after break- 
fast. It was decidedly cold when we arrived at that 
point, and there were occasional showers, but we 
cared less for a low temperature, even though it had 
approached the winter standard, than for a high 
wind which prevailed, and which would have blown 
directly in our faces, half way up the mountain. 
Dark, angry looking clouds were flitting down the 
valley at no very great altitude, and the tree tops 
bent and writhed under the fitful blasts. Alto- 
gether, it seemed an imfavorable time to attempt 
the ascent, and we settled down quite comfortably 
at the log-hut with the railway workmen, deter- 
mined to await more propitious weather. We were 
not a little vexed to learn upon reaching the sum- 
mit the day after, that while the elements had been 
so turbulent in the valley, it had been calm and 
pleasant above the clouds. 

THE ASCENT. 

Saturday dawned more auspiciously, and refreshed 
by a good night's rest, we were in good condition 
for our upward journey. Dense clouds still rested 
upon the mountain, but there were no indications 
that either wind or storm would impede us, and the 
temperature was more springlike — too warm, in 



WALKING UP THE MOUNTAIN. 266 

fact, for violent exercise, as we soon discovered. 
The morning mists had transfonned the valley be- 
low us into a lake of silver, which remained calm 
and motionless through the early morning and until 
the sun's heat caused the vapors to rise and dissi- 
pate. Breakfast over, our preparations for depar- 
ture were quickly made, for they consisted of little 
else than the buckling on of knapsacks and the 
grasping of spiked staffs. Crossing the little stream 
above the station, and following up the logging road 
a few rods, we gained the railway track at a point 
above the high trestle-work. Thenceforward we 
kept upon the track, a course we could easily take, 
since the snow had melted from the ties and string- 
ers. Walking up the mountain over the railway — 
stepping from tie to tie — is fatiguing work, and in 
places where the trestle-work is very high, quite 
dangerous under certain circumstances, but it is the 
most expeditious way of getting over the ground, 
and on the whole the easiest, provided frequent 
halts are made to rest. As we crept slowly upward, 
we paused many times to gaze upon the glorious 
panorama which was gradually unfolding itself to 
our view. The lower banks of mist were rising 
from the valleys and were being wafted about in 
little clouds, or vanished altogether. Above us were 
lei^.den clouds shutting out the sun, and other great 
D^asses of cloud appeared in the west. The Fran- 



266 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

conia range stood out in noble outline against the 
western horizon, and farther distant in the north- 
west were some of tlie Green Mountain peaks, 
though there was less distinctness than usual in the 
remote view on account of the general cloudiness. 
At one time Lafayette seemed transformed into a 
volcano by a little fleecy cloud which ascended 
from its peak like a puff of smoke. No snow was 
encountered until we liad nearly reached the 
Waumbek station, and then it appeared in littla 
patches, in one or two places some distance above 
that point, completely covering the track. 

Not far above the Waumbek station we reached 
the lower surface of the cloud which hung about the 
mountain, and everjrthing remained in obscuration 
until we emerged into the sunlight a short distance 
below the head of the Great Gulf. As we ap- 
proached the upper surface of the vapory mass, a 
fine solar bow, showing all the prismatic colors, 
with a supernumerary bow, was thrown on the 
dense mists below. The cloudy mass was twelve 
or fifteen hundred feet thick, and while we had 
been enveloped in its misty folds, it had extended 
farther westward, forming a continuous, boundless 
sea, relieved only here and there by the tallest 
peaks, which rose like islands from the surface. 
Washington, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison lifted 
their proud heads far above the cloud ocean, like 



\ 



A PLEASANT ASCEVT. 267 

bold promontories on a rugged, rock-bound coast. 
When we reached a sufficiently liigh point to look 
eastward, we found that nearly the whole expanse 
in that direction was also overspread by the billowy 
masses, though at a lower level, as usual. 

In the rarefied air about the summit of the moun- 
tain any exertion is fatiguing, and pedestrianizing 
up a steep grade becomes all the more difficult, but 
happily, for a considerable distance above the Great 
Gulf and until the Lizzie Bourne monument is 
passed, the ascent is much more gradual than be- 
low, and the weary traveller becomes better pre- 
pared for the final pull to the summit. We reached 
our destination in excellent time considering our lei- 
surely way of travelling, for we had stopped many 
times for the double purpose of resting and enjoying 
the strange and beautifiil scenes spread out before 
us. Professor Hitchcock and Mr. Nelson met us a 
little distance below the Lizzie Bourne monument, 
and, after extending a very cordial greeting, re- 
lieved us of our knapsacks, encumbrances we were 
by this time very ready to part with, for they were 
heavily laden with clothing, mail matter, provision!^, 
etc. At the summit we received another warm wel- 
come from Sergeant Smith. 

We could not have had a more favorable time 
for our ascent. There was scarcely a perceptible 
breeze at the summit, and at no time during the 

17 



258 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

morning had the velocity of the wind exceeded 
more than a mile an hour. The temperature was 
unusually high, having been recorded at 39° at 
seven o'clock a. m. — three degrees warmer than 
at the foot of the mountain, — with a slight down- 
ward tendency in subsequent observations. 

MOBE BEAUTIFUL CLOUD SCENES. 

For hours after our arrival there was a succes- 
sion of the most glorious cloud pictures, and it was 
a rich and rare pastime to watch their ever-vaiying 
effects. Westward dense masses of cloud still 
stretched out as far as the eye could discern, while 
the vapory formations eastward of the mountain 
range, upon the topmost pinnacle of which we were 
standing, beside being at a lower level, were less 
dense and in a more disturbed state. Masses of 
cloud breaking away from the vast sea in the west, 
were driven around Mount Washington and the 
other high peaks, before the slight breeze, and 
poured into Oakes' Gulf, Tuckerman's Ravine, 
and the Great Gulf, like huge, noiseless cataracts. 
There was a greater movement of air in the 
Pinkham Notch than anywhere else, and the two 
currents meeting at that point, fleecy mists were 
thrown hundreds — perhaps thousands — of feet in 
tlie air like spray. Now and then huge rifts would 
appear in the southeast, opening most glorious vistas 



A RAMBLE ABOUT THE SUMMIT. 259 

down the valley of the Saco. Once the misty cur- 
tain was rent asunder from Mount Carrigain on the 
west, to beyond Pequawket on the east, and the 
atmosphere being exceedingly clear, the view 
encompassed by those points was very extensive, 
reaching even to Wachusett Mountain in Massa- 
chusetts, while with a powerful glass we could see 
all that was going on in Jackson and in the village 
of North Conway. Later in the afternoon, the 
clouds cleared away along the valleys of the An- 
droscoggin and the Connecticut, opening new 
scenes of loveliness. 

A BAMBLE ABOUT THE SUMMIT. 

I took an early stroll about the plateau forming 
the summit, visiting the Tip-top and Summit 
houses, and other points. While on the moun- 
tain in February, I found it a very easy matter to 
wander about in any direction, the ice and frost 
covering all inequalities, and making comparatively 
an even surface. When we arrived on this visit, 
all the large rocks were bare, snow filling only the 
interstices, although a furious snow-storm had oc- 
curred only a week before. The mountain-top pre- 
sented a mottled appearance. In places along the 
railway and among the rocks, the old snow remained 
to the depth of two or three feet, and in occasional 
drifts still deeper. There was a huge drift in front 



260 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

of the Tip-top House, obscuring nearly the whole 
of the door, and another on the easteriy side of the 
Summit House, but aside from these, the buildings 
were almost bare. There were a few lingering 
beauties of frost-work, but this as well as the snow 
had for the most part disappeared. It was a much 
more difficult task to go about over the rocks now 
than in February, but the exertion, however great, 
well repaid one, for there were many strange sights 
to see. 

A Cl^ANGE OF SCENE. 

The succeeding day brought a very great change 
in the weather, and a corresponding change in the 
aspect of familiar objects about the summit. A 
snow-storm set in sometime in the course of the 
night, and by morning, every rock and building 
was once more adorned with a white mantle. The 
delicate frost-work had also begun to form again, 

but the falling snow soon obscured its beauties. 

* 

This storm was succeeded by others of still greater 
severity in the course of my ten days' sojourn at 
the summit, and in a short time, the landscape was 
rendered exceedingly wintry, in fact surpassing 
everything of the kind I saw in February. The 
huge rocks were almost entirely hidden by the 
snow, which in some places was piled up in tremen- 
dous drifts. The drift against the easterly end of 
the Tip-top House extended to the upper windows, 



SNOW AND FROST, 261 

and it was no very difficult matter to clamber up 
the side of the building, over the snow and ice, to 
the very ridgepole. A few rods down the carriage 
road, between the two stables, a drift formed at 
least twenty feet in depth, making an even surface 
over the steep incline at that place. The buildings 
became entirely coated over with snow, ice, and frost- 
work. The latter began to form in great abundance 
a few days after our arrival, and the delicate, feath- 
ery formations attached themsejves to every object 
— buildings, rocks, telegraph posts and wires, the 
railway trestle-work, and even to the surface of 
the snow itself. On the ninth of May we meas- 
ured masses of the frost-work which were between 
four and five feet in length. The telegraph posts 
just below the summit presented a singular appear- 
ance, fringed with the beautiful white masses, and 
in many places the formations on the trestle-work 
extended out to a considerable distance. The little 
post which marks the highest point of the mountain, 
a rod or so northward of the Tip-top House, as- 
sumed the form of a harp with the strings running 
the wrong way. The pile of stones at the southerly 
verge of the plateau, which Mr. Clough has chris- 
tened the " Arctic Sentinel," sustained its new found 
title very appropriately, for scarcely a vestige of 
the stones could be seen through the thick masses 
of frost. The rude pile of stones which marks the 



262 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

spot where poor Lizzie Bourne perished, September 
14, 1855, was also transformed into an object of 
great beauty, — a more fitting monument to the sad 
and moumfiil event. The frost-king had adorned 
every stone with strange and beautiful forms of 
spotless purity and whiteness, and surmounted the 
whole with a crystal cross. Every chain and sup- 
port about the houses became objects of the rarest 
beauty, and a barrel left standing beside the Tip- 
top House assumed a fantastic shape with the del- 
icate, white, feathery masses growing out upon it. 
An old telegraph pole standing in the rear of the 
house, which, by splicing, had been made to serve 
the pdrpose of a flag-stafi*, likewise became a thing 
of picturesque beauty, a fantastic fringe extending 
from it to the length of from a foot to three or four 
feet, while the width of the mass scarcely exceeded 
the thickness of the pole itself. The staff was 
broken and the flag itself tattered and torn, but to 
all adhered the same strange forms. As the " frost 
feathers " form directly toward the wind, even the 
tip of the wind-vane became encrusted with them 
and the instrument was rendered useless until they 
were removed. 

HOW WE PASSED MAY-DAY. • 

The residents of the mountain-top were stirring 
on the morning of May-day, quite as early as the 



V 



MAY-DAY. 263 



people of the country below, who were supposed to 
be in quest of the traditional May-flower, but with 
a somewhat different object in view, for outward 
appearances suggested any possible pastime except 
going "Maying." Early rising was one of the vir^ 
tues rigidly practiced at the summit, and any visitor 
who failed to conform readily to the custom was 
quite sure to comply when the "Nevada militia" 
mounted guard, a military performance superin- 
tended by Sergeant Smith, and consisting in a very 
great part of a drum sdo executed on a large tin 
can. Encased in overcoats, mufflers, and mittens, 
some of us spent the early morning hours out of 
door^ in the crisp, pure air, admiring the ever 
varying cloud scenes and the gorgeous sunrise, and 
studying the beautiful forms of frost-work created 
during the previous night. Before the middle of 
the forenoon clouds again enveloped the mountain, 
shutting out everything below, above, and around 
us, and snow again began to fall. After dinner 
some of the younger members of the party tried 
coasting down the carriage-road. A sled was 
brought out from the depot, and the sport was 
entered into with consideriable zest. Sliding down 
over the road fifteen or twenty rods, or across lots 
over the huge drifts formed just below the summit 
on the east side, was easy enough, but at such an 
altitude, dragging a sled up-hill through the snoi» 



264 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

is a trifle too much like work to be called a pastime, 
and it was soon abandoned. The greater part of 
the day was passed within doors, where the mem- 
bers of the scientific party were kept quite con- 
stantly employed, for the preparation of this volume 
had already been entered upon. In-door confine- 
ment at the summit during the winter, was made 
far more tolerable than it might have become in 
other localities, on account of the excellent library 
made up for use by the different members of the 
expedition. About noon Professor Hitchcock took 
his departure on his return to Hanover, and in the 
afternoon a fresh visitor arrived, an employee of 
the railway company, who had come up (rogi the 
station at the base of the mountain, into the clouds, 
to communicate by telegraph with another resident 
of the lower world. It seemed a strange errand, 
but by climbing the mountain side, a long journey 
to Whitefield or Bethlehem had been saved, and 
much time also gained, since the telegraph station 
at the summit was the only one open short of 
those points. 

SUNRISE AND SUNSET GLORIES. 

Notwithstanding the quick succession of storms 
which accompanied my visit, I was permitted to 
enjoy several days of delightfully clear weather, 
although at such times even, the country below us 



SUNRISE AND SUNSET GLORIES. 265 

was for the most part obscured by clouds. We also 
had several fine sunrises and sunsets, — such as no 
mortal ever gazed upon below. The morning of 
May-day was delightful. It was clear overhead, 
the storm having ceased during the night, but the 
surrounding country was still obscured. A perfect 
ocean of clouds covered all save the very highest 
peaks. Of the Franconia range, Lafayette and 
Moosilauke only were visible. The nearer moun- 
tains were clearly to be defined on the cloud surface, 
which everywhere seemed to follow the contour of 
the hills and valleys. A cloud cap upon Mount 
Adams extended higher than the top of Mount 
Washington. Tuckerman's Ravine and the Pink- 
ham Notch became deep, black gulfs, being filled 
with clouds at a lower level. The sun had already 
risen and had begun to flash its bright rays over the 
vast cloud sea. Occasionally little masses of cloud 
would drift over our heads before the light westerly 
breeze, obscuring the sun for a moment, and as the 
mists disappeared eastward, they became a golden 
flood of light. The topmost points of cloud were 
tinged with a delicate purple, and little, fleecy 
masses of vapor breaking away from the great body 
below, would rise here and there into the blue ether, 
IJke mysterious spectres. Walking out to the west- 
ern verge of the little plateau, we discovered the 
shadow of the mountain upon the clouds resting 



266 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. . 

northward of Mount Monroe. Our own shadows 
were surrounded — or rather the heads were encir- 
cled — by a corona displaying the prismatic hues, 
and occasionally a bow was shown on the drifting 
mists above. The lower half of our shadows, of a 
more intense blackness than the rest, was cast upon 
the shadowy form of the mountain. A similar 
phenomenon had been observed only a few morn- 
ings previous by Professor Hitchcock. Such ex- 
hibitions are, however, exceedingly rare. 

A few nights after, we enjoyed another glorious 
spectacle. The summit was enshrouded in clouds 
when the sun went down, but they floated away 
soon after, disclosing a scene of indescribably beauty 
and grandeur. A vast sea of leaden clouds lay at 
our feet, covering every valley and every mountain 
peak except our own. Above us was another cloud 
stratum, and we looked out from between the two 
upon a fairy picture. Over Mount Monroe and the 
chain of mountains running down to the Notch, 
poured with the stillness of death a vast ^Niagara. 
The whole western horizon was aglow with light. 
The sun had left a sea of gold, while upon either 
side were delicate tints of purple, crimson, blue, and 
green, the whole forming a picture such as no 
painter ever produced. It seemed like a foretaste 
of the bright, beautiful land of • the future, — an 
opening of the pearly gates leading to the haven of 



AN EXCURSION. 267 

eternal rest and peace. Like everything else in 
winter scenery about the mountains, every feature 
of loveliness was intensified many fold. Turning 
from the glorious scene to the eastern horizon was 
like being transported from the regions of light to 
the very depths of darkness. Night had long since 
settled there, and the dark, shadowy forms of cloud 
appeared like spirits of evil banished from the heav- 
enly paradise we had just gazed upon. The broad 
band of light in the west began to contract, and the 
bright colors faded little by little. The clouds 
around us were at times flushed with a roseate hue, 
while those above us, in the west, were tinged with 
a brighter, though yet a pale light. After an ashy 
pallor had settled upon the clouds below, there was 
a reviving light — a faint flush which lighted up the 
misty surface in a strange, supernatural way, — and 
at length the gloom of night stole across the whole 
scene. 

AN EXCURSION TO TUCKERMAN's RAVINE. 

Taking advantage of a warm and pleasant after- 
noon, I made an excursion to the head and the north 
side of Tuckerman's Ravine, accompanied by Mr. 
Nelson. The temperature was comparatively mild 
at the summit, ranging from 26° at seven a. m., up 
to 34° at two p. M., and down to 25° at seven p. m. 
We proceeded down the carriage road a little dis- 



268 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY, 

tance, and then struck off directly down the moun- 
tain side over a course that would be impassable in 
summer. In places, the snow was five or six. feet 
deep, and the sun had made it so soft that we occa- 
sionally sank to a considerable depth. At times we 
had to proceed with much care and caution for fear 
of starting the whole mass in a slide. We soon 
reached the plateau below, which ^as covered with 
snow only in places, and turning our steps south- 
ward, quickly made our way over the intervening 
mile to the Ravine. It was warm and spring-like 
behind the cone of Mount Washington, and the 
snows of the summit were melting into countless 
little streams which murmured among the rocks 
beneath our feet, or saturated the lichens and 
sedges to the condition of a well filled sponge. One 
needs to be well clad about the feet to travel among 
the mountains in either winter or spring. Skirting 
the head of the tremendous abyss, we reached 
the north brink, and making our way as best we 
could through the deep snow and over the stunted 
trees, descended a considerable distance. The snow 
covering the jagged, little trees was so soft that we 
frequently broke through to the depth of several feet, 
and perchance became entangled in the branches. 
We found a more practicable way back, and man- 
aged to avoid both trees and snow by keeping to 
the rocks. 



TUCKERMAlSrS RAVINE. 269 

It is not my purpose to attempt any description 
of the vast, rocky amphitheatre, for few White 
Mountain visitors have neglected to view it with 
their own eyes, and furthermore, language is weak 
in describing such stupendous features in mountain 
scenery. A great number of little rills trickled 
down the walls of the Ravine, forming into a stream 
of considerable size, which made merry music as it 
danced along its rocky, precipitous bed, on its way 
to the bright and inviting valley below, and the 
deeper bass of the larger cascades came up to our 
ears softened by the distance. The Titanic barriers 
of the Ravine formed the frame of a most beautiful 
picture which included some of the most lovely por- 
tions of the Saco valley and the Conway meadows, 
with a background of mountains. Glancing upward 
to the lofty brow of Mount Washington, we seemed 
transported from the region of spring to the home 
of hoary winter -from the verdant tree-tops and 
pleasant meadows adown the Saco, to the seemingly 
exhaustless stores of snow garnered from the cold 
and cheerless clouds, which even now enshrouded 
the summit like an impenetrable gray mantle. The 
winter snows had poured over the head of the 
Ravine and remained in a huge bank reaching from 
the bottom to the very top, but the quantity was 
probably less than is usual at the same time of the 
year, and subsequent warm weather diminished it 
greatly. 



270 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY, 

From Tuckerman's Ravine we retraced our steps 
for a mile or so, and visited another enormous 
chasm, of which visitors to Mount Washington 
ordinarily hear little and see less. In fact, it is not 
discernible from any of the travelled roads or paths. 
It is much narrower than Tuckerman's, but to 
appearances, nearly if not fully as deep, and the 
walls are equally as precipitous — in one ' place 
actually overhanging. The head of the ravine, un- 
like Tuckerman's, forms an angle, and aflFords but 
little lodgment for the snow. Before returning to 
the summit, we also paid a visit to the northernmost 
spur of the mountain, opposite Mount Adams, mak- 
ing our way back across lots, reaching the protect- 
ing roof of the Observatory soon after sunset. 

A day's tramp amid the clouds. 

Saturday, May 6th, was an unusually warm day 
at the summit, the thermometer once standing at 
56° in the shade. There were clouds below as 
usual, and the sun's heat refracted therefrom with 
increased power. Prof. Hitchcock and a companion 
had made an excursion to Mount Adams a week 
previous, and Mr. Nelson and myself determined 
to perform the same journey. We indulged in the 
vain hope that the clouds would dissipate or pass 
away before we reached our destination, although 
the entire country, except a little patch down the 



A DATS TRAMP. 271 

Saco valley, in the direction of Jackson and North 
Conway, was obscured when we set out from the 
Observatory, about nine o'clock. Proceeding down 
the railway as far as the Gulf Tank, we struck off 
northward, by the head of the Great Gulf, and 
thence onward to Mount Clay. There is no beaten 
track between Mount Washington and Mount 
Adams, but the way cannot easily be missed under 
ordinary circumstances, for the traveller has only 
to keep along the ridges of Mount Clay, Mount 
Jefferson, and Mount Adams successively, until the 
high peak of the latter is reached. The whole dis- 
tance lies far above the line of trees, and for the 
greater part above an elevation of five thousand feet 
from the sea-level. Mount Adams is the next high- 
est peak of the White Mountain range to Mount 
Washington, its elevation being 6,794 feet. To 
reach it by the route above mentioned, we were 
compelled to walk fully five miles, and to overcome 
the following inequalities, according to Mr. Vose's 
measurements of the elevation of the several peaks 
and gaps : First, we had to descend about 874 
feet fi'om the summit of Mount Washington to the 
gap between Washington and Clay, elevation 6,417 
feet ; then ascend 136 feet to the summit of Clay, 
elevation 5,663 feet ; descend 674 feet to the gap 
between Clay and Jefferson, elevation 4,979 feet ; 
ascend 736 feet to the highest point of Jefferson, 



272 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

elevation 5,714 feet ; descend 775 feet to the gap 
between Jefferson and Adams, elevation 4,939 feet ; 
and finally ascend 855 feet to the top of Mount 
Adams. These figures, however, fail to represent 
the actual amount of up-hill apd down-hill work to 
be accomplished, for there is a succession of lesser 
peaks, each of which must in turn be scaled. Most 
persons who visit the mountains are inclined to look 
contemptuously upon Mount Clay, regarding it as 
an insignificant pile of stones compared with its 
proud neighbors, Washington and Jefferson. Let 
them but undertake a journey over it, as we did, 
and they will certainly change their opinions. 
There is seemingly enough of it to represent every 
member of the Clay family, dead or living. It is 
a long ridge of little peaks made up of rough, 
jagged rocks, which are most uncomfortable to 
clamber over. The snow was in some places several 
feet in depth, and long before we reached the sides 
of Mount Adams, where it appeared to be the 
deepest, it had grown very soft and yielding. In 
crossing the plateau on the south side of Mount 
Adams, instead of keeping upon the ridge at a 
greater elevation, as we should have done, we fre- 
quently found ourselves entangled in the branches 
of the stunted trees. 

Arriving at the top of the little heap of stones 
forming the summit, about noon, we were not a 



A TRAMP IN THE CLOUDS. 273 

little disappointed to discover that the whole of the 
surrounding country was still covered by clouds. 
A broad furrow, stretching miles away both north- 
ward and eastward, indicated where the Andros- 
coggin valley was situated, but nought could be 
seen of the river itself. The cloud line generally 
rested about four thousand feet high, or about on a 
level with the limit of trees on the mountain sides, 
so that the sections seen were only the rocky, snow- 
clad peaks. Mount Washington stood forth in 
grand majesty, although we could see only its upper 
half. The long ridge of Mount Carter lifted itself 
above the surface of the shadowy sea, looking " very 
like a whale I " Some of the snow capped peaks of 
Maine were also to be seen, but all else, save the 
nearer White Mountain mnge, was sunk beneath the 
vast ocean which stretched far away on every 
side. 

We devoured our dinner of *' hard-tack," wash- 
ing it down with pure snow-water, and then inscrib- 
ing our names upon an old sardine box which had 
evidently served as a sorT of visitors' register for 
nearly a dozen years, started to return. Tumultu- 
ous clouds rose angrily in the southwest, as if to 
drive us back from their domain. The prospect of 
having to grope our way back over an uncertain 
path, in the clouds, was not particularly pleasant, 
but it was one we were compelled to accept, for we 

18 



274 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

were soon engulfed by the huge, fleecy masses 
which rose in the west and drifted over the moun- 
tains. While upon Mount Adams, and at other 
points in our journey, we heard the shouts of our 
friends on Mount Washington very distinctly, not- 
withstanding the distance from peak to peak, in a 
direct line, is at least three miles, and we were told 
on our return that our progress had been watched 
very minutely with the aid of the telescopes, our 
staffs and footprints in the snow, even, being dis- 
cernible. Up and down the sides of Lafayette, and 
across the greater part of Clay, we were compelled 
to grope our way through the clouds. Where the 
snow remained we could retrace our footsteps, but 
these frequently led over trackless rocks or bare 
patches of sedge. Tlie ridge in places is naiTow, 
and a deviation from the proper course might lead 
us into the deep ravines on either side. The clouds 
gathered thicker and thicker, at times clearing away 
suiBciently, however, to show us our course ahead, 
and by fixing our pathway at such times with a com- 
pass, following our foot-prints where they could be 
traced in the snow, or guiding ourselves on the 
ridge between the falling waters which could be 
heard on either side, we finally reached the railway, 
which is a sure and safe pilot to the summit of 
Mount Washington. It was a long, weary journey, 
however, and we did not reach the depot until after 
seven o'clock. 



THE GHOSTLY ARMIES. 275 

In ascending the cone of Mount Washington, we 
again got above the cloud level, and enjoyed a rare 
sunset scene. We also witnessed a veritable battle 
of the clouds. The wind, which had been very 
light throughout the day, had appeared to come 
from different directions at different points — now 
from the east, in another place from the north or 
northwest, and again from the west or southwest. 
We had ascended a little distance above the Gulf 
Tank, when we turned and observed two ghostly 
armies approaching each other — one from the 
direction of Mount Monroe, and the other from out 
the depths of the Great Gulf. Noiselessly they 
marched onward, and the conflict came near the gap 
between Mounts Washington and Clay. The bat- 
tle was short and decisive. Little fragments of 
cloud, like wreaths of smoke, were flung high in 
air, and there seemed a momentary indecision, but 
the fleecy forms from the southwest were soon flee- 
ing before the fast gathering hosts of the east, until 
all were commingled in one shadowy mass. 

MORE WINTRY WEATHER. 

In the course of the twenty-four hours succeed- 
ing our visit to Mount Adams, we had an opportu- 
nity to reflect upon the changeableness and uncer- 
tainty of mountain weather. After a genial and 
delightful day on the 6th, the summit became envel- 



276 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY, 

oped in clouds in the early evening, and rain began 
to fall by nine o'clock. Before morning the rain 
turned to snow, and a furious gale set in. The 
thermometer which had indicated 66° Saturday 
morning had descended to 25° at the same hour 
Sunday morning, and Monday morning it marked 
16°. For nearly forty-eight hours the snow fell, 
or rather drifted over the summit in clouds, and the 
tempest raged with great fury. Huge banks of 
snow formed against the sides of the buildings and 
along the line of the railway, more than replacing 
those which had almost disappeared under the warm 
influence of Saturday's sun. After nightfall on 
Sunday the storm seemed to increase in force, and 
it was thought that the wind at times reached a 
velocity of nearly if not quite ninety miles an hour. 
Beneath the force of the terrific blasts, the building 
which sheltered us trembled and writhed like a ship, 
in an ocean tempest. No one ventured out of doors 
except to make the required observations with the 
anemometer, and there were times when it would 
have been impossible to withstand the fiiry of the 
storm. Warmth and comfort reigned within, but 
the creaking of the timbers and chains and the 
surging, seething roar of the storm were frightful to 
hear. Each plank and timber in the whole structure 
seemed to have a particular creak and groan of its 
own, and a thousand demons appeared to rage with- 



THE DESCENT. 27T 

out. Yet the storm was much less severe than 
many which had been encountered at the summit 
during the winter. I had chanced to be present 
during a much more furious assault of the ele- 
ments, in February, but nevertheless, the storm of 
May 7th and 8th was something long to be* remem 
bered. 

THE DESCENT. 

Having already been detained at the mountain- 
top longer than I desired, in consequence of the 
storm, I availed myself of the earliest abatement of 
the tempest to descend. To have attempted the 
journey on Monday would have been both difficult 
and dangerous, and it is doubtful if it could have 
been performed in such a storm. On Tuesday, the^ 
9th, it continued cloudy at the summit, but the 
storm had passed. Immense quantities of snow had 
fallen and the average depth for a mile and a half 
down the mountain side was at least three feet. It 
was unsafe walking upon the railway, for the snow 
made the ties and stringers slippery and treacher- 
ous, and it became necessary to take to the rocks. 
From the summit to Jacob's Ladder, the best course 
was to keep beside the railway. At that point the 
old Fabyan bridle-path is, crossed, and this formed 
an easier route until the railway was again reached, 
a short distance above the Waumbek station. The 



278 MOUNT WASHINGTON IN MAY. 

snow jyas veiy deep far down into the forests, and 
it made a pitfall of every hole and crevice, but 
there was an advantage in having soft places to fall 
upon. As I had neglected to provide myself with 
snow-shoes, I could make but slow progress through 
the deep snows, but upon the lower slopes there 
was a much less quantity of snow, and the little 
there was made a better surface to walk upon than 
the bare rocks and earth alone would have fur- 
nished. 

Emerging from the cloud which enwrapped the 
summit in its icy folds, I beheld a most glorious 
scene. At first the misty curtain was withdrawn just 
far enough to bring the yalley of the Ammonoosuc 
and the more distant green hills of Vermont into view 
• — a landscape of incomparable beauty, framed and 
tinged by the neutral gray of the drifting mists. 
Soon the surrounding peaks were added to the pic- 
ture. A snowy mantle was spread over them all, 
and little patches of sunlight played about their sum- 
mits or shot down their slopes like shafts of bur- 
nished silver. The frost formations near the sum- 
mit of Mount Washington were very extensive and 
very beautiful. In the forests below they were more 
delicate, and seemingly more beautiful still. They 
covered every bush, twig, and bit of hanging moss, 
while the snow which had fallen upon the branches 
formed a canopy of the same spotless purity. One 



FROM MIDWINTER TO SPRING. 279 

looked through long vistas of exquisitely carved 
columns and arches, here and there bedecked with a 
sprig of living emerald, and intertwined with cur- 
tains and festoonings of ermine. It was surely a 
glimpse into fairy-land. 

There were some two inches of snow about the 
depot at the foot of the mountain, but in the seven 
miles' walk from thence to the White Mountain 
House — from which point further locomotion was 
had by horse power to a railroad connection at 
Whitefield — all trace of winter, save in the view 
backward toward the mountains, was lost. It was 
a sudden transition from midwinter back, to spring. 
In the clear atmosphere \he mountain chain we 
were fast leaving behind us stood out in bold relief, 
and we lingered long upon the brow of the hill, half 
a mile up the turnpike from the Notch road, to 
enjoy the beautiful prospect that spot above all 
others affords. 




PART THIKD. 

HETEOBOLOOT OF HOUNT WASHINQTOlf. 



INTRODUCTION. 



HAT a knowledge of the climatology of 
a country is intimately connected with the 
welfare of its people, is not to-day a mooted 
question. From being a matter of mere conjecture 
it has come to be a subject of inquiry and investiga- 
tion. Many things have a bearing upon the tjues- 
tion : electric phenomena ; the formation, course, 
and progress of storms ; tlie average temperature 
and rainfall, and the fluctuations to which the ele- 
ments are subject. Indirectly, the knowledge de- 
rived from the investigation of these phenomena, is 
a benefit to all, but especially is it of direct advan- 
tage to the two most important vocations, — com- 
merce and agriculture. Although the different phe- 
nomena of meteorology have occupied the attention 
of mankind from time immemorial, it ia most fre- 
quently only the apphcation of the laws of physics 
to a particular class of phenomena, " therefore it 



282 INTRODUCTION. 

could make no real progress until other sciences, 
and especially physics, were sufficiently advanced 
to constitute a satisfactory body of doctrines." 

The discoveries in electricity, the most important 
branch of physics for meteorology, date back scarcely 
a century, and hardly twenty years have elapsed 
since scientific societies and governments com- 
menced systematic operations. The knowledge of 
storms furnished by Redfield, Reid, etc., " suggested 
the possibility of inaugurating a system of weather 
observations, and of using the results for the benefit 
of commerce and navigation both on the sea and 
land. The giving effect to this idea, as Buchan 
remarks, constitutes the splendid contribution to 
practical meteorology made by Admiral Fitzroy in 
February, 1861, by the system of storm-warnings 
or forecasts, which has since been adopted by almost 
eveiy country in Europe." The Congress of the 
United States, in April 1870, passed a law establish- 
ing a " Bureau of Telegrams and Reports for the 
benefit of Commerce." *' With quiet activity," it 
was speedily organized and equipped. 

The last of October it had its corps of observei's 
in the field, and on the first of November the first 
official storm-warnings were made. Scarcely half 
a dozen forecasts were published, when it was evi- 
dent that this was the most important service ever 
organized by the government. 



VALUE OF THE OBSERVATIONS, 283 

The observations taken by individuals, each 
working after a method of his own, are interesting 
in themselves, but lacking uniformity they are of 
little value as compared with those taken under one 
organization, each observer being furnished with 
standard instruments, and all taking observations 
simultaneously. The observations taken under the 
direction of the British Board of Admiralty, the 
Smithsonian Institution, and the United States 
Storm Signal Service, with their trained, educated 
observers, everything reduced to a perfect system, 
and giving daily reports and forecasts of storms, will 
reduce meteorology to such an exact science that 
the probabilities, which are drawn from observa- 
tions taken, will amount to almost an absolute cer- 
tainty. My object in occupying Mount Washington, 
was if possible, by studying the upper currents of 
the air, to add something to our knowledge of 
meteorology. Is there any one that doubts, but that 
our atmospheric disturbanceiS are governed by fixed 
laws ? If they are, then, if we are able to under- 
stand these laws we ought just as surely to be able 
to give forecasts of the weather, as to foretell the 
changes of the planets. That we were not mis- 
taken in supposing Mount Washington to be a 
desirable point for meteorological observations, the 
following extract from a letter from Professor Cleve- 
land Abbe, Director of the Cincinnati Observatory 
and Assistant in the Signal Service will show : — 



284 INTRODUCTION. 

^< Thus far, as regards the cold period, I am able 
to verify your statement, and also to add that the 
cloudy, drizzly and cold raw weather continues here 
below a few hours after it begins to moderate over- 
head. The cold upper winds, as reported from 
Cheyenne and Mount Washington, are sure to be 
followed by cold, cloudy weather for a long distance 
south. The hygrometric observations from the 
mountain stations are however of still more impor- 
tance. Although these require very large cor- 
rection, which are not given in Guyot's tables, 
yet I manage daily to derive information which 
foretells the coming storm, and would do so far 
more accurately had we two other stations distant 
one to three hundred miles. Especially do I value 
the Mount Washington record in the study of the 
rapidity of the motion of small areas of high and 
low pressure. This has been to me the most im- 
portant part of my work since I entered upon my 
duties in January, and I feel the great advantage 
that we possess over the English meteorological 
observers, in that we, at once, have been able to 
enter upon the study of that which they after many 
years experience are only now able to begin to 
study. I think, my dear sir, that meteorology and 
our Signal Service are under great obligations to 
you for your successful eflforts to carry oh your \ 
meteorological observations during the winter on 
Mount Washinirton." 




CHAPTER XVI. 

THE FR09T-W0KK AND CLOUDS. 

HE frost-work is one of the most remark- 
able phenomena of this high altitude. It 
is difficult to convey in words any idea of 
its wonderful form and beauty. It was not easy 
at first to understand how it could be formed, but 
from the study given to it last winter, and the op- 
portunities we have had of observing its formation 
this, we are able to give a plausible, if not a cor- 
rect Uieory to account for this, the most plastic of 
all the handiwork of nature. 



HOW FORMED. • 

At our first observation, we see that it forms only 
when the wind is northward, i. e. at some point be- 
tween north and west or north and east, and never 
when the wind is southward. It begins with mere 
points, on everything the wind reaches: on the rocks, 
on the snow, on the railway, and on every part of 
the buildings, even on the glass. On the south side 
of the buildings and the high rocks it is very alight. 



286 THE FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS, 

as the wind reaches there only in eddying gusts. 
When the surface is rough, the points, as they be- 
gin are an inch or more apart; when smooth it 
almost entirely covers the surface at the very begin- 
ning, but soon only a few points elongate, so that 
on whatever surface it begins to form, it has very 
soon the same general appearance, presenting 
everywhere the same beautiful, feathery-like forms. 

^ Thus Nature works, as if defying art ; 
And in defiance of her rival powers, 
Performing such inimitable feats, 
As she with all her rules can never reach." 

When the ice which has formed on llie rocks is 
transparent and the frost-work forms on this, we can 
often see in the interstices of the frost-work, which 
is purely white, the gray rocks and the many 
colored lichens, the whole making a picture of rare 
beauty. In going up the mountain we do not see the 
frost-work until we get some distance above the limit 
of the trees ; it is nearly a mile before it is seen in 
its characteristic forms, and it is only immediately 
about the summit that it presents its most attractive 
features. We notice also, that it ^always forms 
toward the wind, never from it, and the rapidity 
with which it forms, and the great length of the 
horizontal masses, is truly wonderful. We placed a 
round stick, an inch in diameter, in a vertical posi- 
tion, where it was exposed to the full force of the 



MASSES OF ICE. 287 

wind, and in less than two days some of the hori- 
zontal icicles — we call them icicles for the want of 
a more appropriate name — were two feet in length 
and scarcely any thicker than the stick itself. They 
formed on every part of the stick that was exposed, 
but of course some points were much longer than 
others. They remained several •days, but with 
a change of wind they were blown off. On the 
piles of stones south of the house, these horizontal 
masses are sometimes five or six feet in length. 
Although these masses are often as hard as the 
.hardest ice, yet throughout they are as white as 
the purest snow. 

On the* southern exposures, instead of the frost- 
work — especially on the telegraph poles along the 
railway, — there are only masses of pure ice, which 
have always a peculiar hue of greenish blue, which 
is in striking contrast with the pure white of the 
frost-worfk on the side opposite. 

In the early part of December, when the ther- 
mometer ranged from 25° to 29°, and the wind was 
southward, the ice formed to the thickness of a foot 
or more on the telegraph poles near the house. 
These icy masses are formed evidently by the con- 
densation of the vapor of the atmosphere, as it is not 
uncommon for the air to be above the point of satu- 
ration. The frost-work is also formed by the con- 
densation of vapor, but besides the vapor, the air 



288 THE FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS. 

must be filled with minute spiculae of ice. As the 
vapor condenses these are caught, and thus the hori- 
zontal, feathery masses are formed. This accounts 
for the facts that we have observed, namely, that it 
forms when the wind is northward and always toward 
the wind. 

THE CLOUDS. 

Mountains without clouds are spiritless and tame. 
It is true, that on high summits even under a noon- 
day sun, when there is some haze in the atmosphere, 
we get an idea of immensity that we could not be- 
fore comprehend, but on the same heights with 
clouds floating gracefully around the distant peaks 
or their shadows flitting across illimitable forests, 
we have besides, a beauty and a grandeur, of which 
one who has never looked upon a cloud-scene from 
a mountain-summit " has as little imagination or 
understanding as he has of the scenery of another 
planet than his own." I suppose we might stay 
here a lifetime and not see a single cloud effect re- 
peated ; we might see something similar, but in its 
details each would be unlike that which preceded 
it. Hence the attraction is ever new, and each 
succeeding day reveals new glories not seen before. 
In summer, often in the morning, the fogs lie along 
the valleys, over the lakes and streams. When 
the sun warms the air, these fogs rise and form 
clouds that pass over the summits and float away to 



A SEA OF MIST. 289 

be redissolved as they meet the warmer cniTeTits of 
the air, or to be augmented, when tll^y meet the 
cooler currents. In winter the cloud effects are 
quite different from those of summer. Often we 
stand on the summit and look forth upon an illimit- 
able sea of mist glittering in the bright sunlight, 
while every peak, except that on which we stand, is 
concealed by clouds. So it is not uncommon for It 
to be a dark day in the valleys while on the summit 
we are in the bright sunlight. Sometimes the clouds 
are two thousand feet below the summit of Mount 
Washington; in that case innumerable mountain 
peaks protrude and seem like islands in an ocean 
bounded only by the sky. In winter these cloud- 
effects continue often a whole day almost un- 
changed. 

These scenes naturally suggest Bayard Taylor's 
" Hymn to the Air, — " 

" What is the scenery of earth to. thine ? 
Here all is fixed in everlasting shapes ; 
But where the realms of gorgeous cloudland shine, 

There stretch afar thy sun-illumined capes, 
Embaying reaches of the amber seas 

Of sunset, on whose tranquil bosom lie 

The happy islands of the upper sky, 
The halcyon shores of thine Atlantides. 
Anon the airy headlands change, and drift 

Into sublimer forms, that slowly heave 

Their toppling masses up the front of eve, 
Crag heaped on crag, with many a fiery rift. 

And hoary summits, throned beyond the reach 
19 



290 FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS. 

Of Alps or Caucasus ; again the;f change 
And down the vast, interminable range 

Of towers and palaces, transcending each, 

The workmanship of Fable-land we see 
The " crystal hyaline " of Heaven's 0¥rn floor, — 

The radiance of far Eternity 

Reflected on thy shore ! '* 

At times the whole country westward is covered 
with clouds which are moving eastward, but when 
they pass the ridge that runs south to the Notch 
they are redissolved as they meet the warmer cur- 
rents, and the air is then as transparent as if there 
was but a single cloud westward. It has not, to 
my knowledge, ever rained or snowed in the val- 
leys when there was only a single stratum of cloud 
spread over the country at this low elevation. It 
has been noticed by aeronauts, " that when there is 
rain from a sky completely covered with clouds, 
there is always a similar range of clouds situated 
above at a certain height ; and that on the contrary, 
when it does not rain, although the sky presents 
below the same appearance, the space situated im- 
diately above, as a dominant character, has a great 
extent of clear sky, with a sun unobstructed by a 
single cloud. This explains why a similar state of 
things frequently exists. — a very cloudy, overcast 
sky without a drop of rain." 



FORMATION OF CLOUDS. 291 

CLOUDS FROM THE OCEAN. 

It is one of the sublime scenes on Mount Wash- 
ington, to watch the clouds as they come moving in 
solid phalanx from the ocean. The upper surface 
is generally higher than Mount Pleasant in Maine, 
hardly as high as the summit of Pequawket, or 
the Carter Range. When lower than the Carter 
Range it is frequently the case that the clouds come 
into the deep ravines between Mount Washington 
and the Carter Range, both from the north and the 
south. In every instance when the clouds have 
come in thus from the sea, there has been a storm 
the same day or the day following, not only on the 
mountain but thijoughout New England. When 
the clouds have come thus from the eastward, the 
wind on Mount Washington has been west or south- 
west. The clouds, when a storm has approached 
from the south, have always been at a high eleva- 
tion, and they seem to be continually augmented as 
they come northward, extending over the high 
mountain summits ; although far above them, a col- 
umn would be formed from each summit to the 
mass above. The gradual formation of the cloud 
is easily explained. The moisture-laden atmos- 
phere from the south, coming in contact with the 
colder currents north, the vapor is condensed. In 
the vicinity of the snow-clad mountain summits, it 



292 FROST-WORK AND CLOUDS. 

is quite probable that there is a colder stratum of 
air, hence the column extending to the clouds above. 
Instead of a great sea of mist, or a storm gradually 
approaching, the clouds may be driven by fierce 
winds into " boiling heaps of illuminated mist, 
furrowed by a thousand colossal ravines," or dashed 
against the jutting cliffs and crags, being thrown 
like spray hundreds of feet into the air to be caught 
again by the wind and hurled down into the seeth- 
ing depths. No pen, no pencil, can portray the 
grandeur of the scene, when these clouds are 
touched with rose-tinted amber light, while into the 
depths of the chasms formed by the whirling mist, 
shadows fall dark as night, or when the sea of clouds 
with " mighty icebergs floating in it," extends as 
far as the eye can reach, or the forest-clad peaks 
protruding above its surface, the bosom of the 
sea apparently as smooth as polished marble, then 
perchance agitated by slightly undulating swells, or 
rolling in waves burnished with silver and tipped 
with gold. 

The coronas encircling the sun, the luminous 
glow surrounding our shadows as they are thrown 
far out upon the clouds, the supernumerary bows 
continuing for hours, and many cloud scenes, are 
described by Mr. Nelson in his jourpal. 




CHAPTER XVIL 



THE WIND. 




ERY few persons have any idea of the 
velocity of the wind or its pressure. The 
greatest velocity that has been measured at 
the Observatory at Central Park, New York City, 
is forty-five miles per hour. As the Observatory 
is in an exposed situation and near the sea-board it 
is reasonable to conclude that this is the greatest 
velocity, except in very rare instances, anywhere on 
the Atlantic slope, where the elevation is not much 
above the sea level. The pressure for this velocity 
at the level of the sea when the barometer is at its 
mean height, is six,pocmds per square foot. 

THE VELOCITY AND PRESSURE AX LOW ELEVATIONS. 

• As the pressure varies as the square of the ve- 
locity, when the velocity of the wind is twenty 
miles per hour, its force is four times as great as 
that of a wind blowing ten miles per hour. When 
the wind is blowing from sixty to seventy miles per 
hour, it requires a man of considerable physical 



294 THE WIND. 

strength to be able to stand against it, for the pres- 
sure then near the level of the sea, is from eighteen 
to twenty-four pounds per square foot. If a person 
presents a surface of six square feet and knows his 
physical strength, he can easily tell how great a 
velocity he can withstand. 

It is a very different thing, however, being merely 
able to stand bracing one's self, and going against 
the wind, for in this case, we have as it were, to 
push the weight of the pressure of the wind before 
us. 

THE VELOCITY AND PRESSURE AT HIGH ELEVATIONS. 

The summit of the mountain is rarely free from 
winds, and they have a greater velocity than at any 
point where they have ever been measured, except 
those measured by Mr. Clough and myself on Moos- 
ilauke, last w^inter. One reason why it is so much 
greater here than elsewhere, is from the fact, that 
in the valleys the wind is generally unsteady, blow- 
ing in gusts, while here, during the most violent 
winds, there is not the slightest lull, until the storm 
has reached its culmination, then there are lulls 
which continually lengthen until the storm ceases. 

" During the most violent storms the wind has 
exceeded a hundred miles per hour, and the average 
height of the barometer may be stated at twenty- 
three inches. 




■ 




5 




i:E 



ijjjj:. 



IEIIE: 



w: 



L,-.^ ►- 5 S ft s s s ? 



I 



PRESSORS OF THE WIND. 295 

" With a velocity of one hundred miles per hour 
at the level of the sea, the pressure on a square foot 
is fifty pounds. * But 11:1 estimating the pressure at 
the summit we must make a reduction in accord- 
ance with the principle that the power of a moving 
fluid to remove an obstacle is in proportion to the 
square of its density. Taking the average pressure 
at the level of the sea during these storms at twenty- 
nine inches, we must reduce the tabular pressure of 
fifty pounds as follows : 50 X (l*)^ = 31.45. That 
is, a velocity of one hundred miles per hour at the 
summit, would gave a pressure of 31.46 pounds to 
the square foot ; and this pressure corresponds by 
the same table to a velocity at the level of the sea 
of 79.3 miles an hour. Hence we see that a veloc- 
ity of 79.3 miles an hour at the level of the sea 
would do the same damage as a velocity of one 
hundred miles on the summit." Calms are very 
rare and generally of short duration. They occur 
when the wind is on the point of changing. At 
times the changes are very sudden ; the wind may 
be southeast and in an hour there will be a stifi^ 
breeze from the northwest, which soon increases to 
a gale. This change of the wind from a point, to 
that directly opposite, is not unconimon. The pre- 
vailing winds have been northwest, and the most 
violent, with one exception, have come from that 
direction or a few points farther north. 



296 THE WIND. 

As the side of the house presents a surface of 
more than six hundred square feet, the pressure of 
the wind, when it reaches its greiatest velocity, is 
tremendous, and it puts the house to the severest 
test, especially when it comes in heavy gusts. 

After a time of light wind, when the building is 
full of frost and the joints are frozen, a heavy wind 
loosens the joints with a report that is startling, so 
sharp that, until we become accustomed to it, we 
can hardly believe but that the house is coming 
down over our heads. These reports, with the al- 
most constant roar of the wind, are trying to weak 
nerves, and even if a person has considerable cour- 
age it is sometimes difficult to be perfectly cool, par- 
ticularly when the thermometer gets below — 40, 
as the chances of escape are very small should 
the house be crushed. But in general it only fur- 
nishes excitement enough to keep oflP the ennui in- 
cident to an isolated life. 

REMARKABLE WINDS WHEN CLEAR. 

Nothing has surprised me more than the fierce 
winds we have when it is perfectly clear.' We ex- 
pect them when there are clouds on the mountain, 
but we have had the wind more than eighty miles 
per hour when there was not a single cloud above 
the summit. The wind at such times is rarely a 
steady pressure, as it is during a period of storm. 



THE WAR OF THE ELEMENTS. 297 

No war of the elements is so remarkable as when 
these invisible elements rage with such fury around 
this high summit on a clear, cold, moonlight night 
in midwinter. At such times the sky is intensely 
blue, the moon looks coldly down, and the stars 
shine as nowhere else, except at high altitudes and 
in northern latitudes. Besides the roar of the wind 
and the creaking of the house, the wind seems to 
be trying its utmost to draw the coals upward 
through the stove-pipe, for it tugs and pulls and 
jerks, and now, as if gathering all its force, it gives 

• 

one long, steady pull, but the coals are too heavy 
for it. With light wood it would certainly succeed, 
if not in taking the wood away, at least in taking 
every spark of fire, — for this was done several times 
during my stay on Moosilauke. Now the sound is a 
hoarse deafening roar, that dies away into a plaintive 
moan ; now it screeches and howls as though all the 
witches of Macbeth were therein confined, but in 
an instant the sound ceases, only 'however to be 
renewed by others so weird and strange that one 
almost believes that the ghosts of the aborigines, 
who were guilty of having ascended where only the 
lichens grow, still hover about the summit ; for they 
had a tradition that sucl) would never reach the 
hunting ground beyond the -sunset, but must wan- 
der forever around the mountain they had dared 
profane. Now it seizes the damper in the pipe, 



298 THE WIND, 

which rattles and vibrates, and seems to offer no 
resistance to the passing currents of the air. 

Thus the wind through the pipe roars and shrieks, 
growls and howls, pipes and hums, grating and jar- 
ring, creeking and twanging, then gently breathing 
with a plaintive moan, while outside it comes in 
waves as the ocean beats in heavy surges on the 
shore. Almost every one who has been here in 
summer has noticed, when at intervals there are 
-clouds passing over the mountain, that the wind 
blows with greater velocity while the clouds are on 
the mountain. This is probably due to the greater 
humidity, as it is well known that an excess of 
aqueous vapor gives rise to currents in the atmos- 
phere. As the motion of the atmosphere is from 
the place where it contains least vapor to that where 
there is the most vapor, this may be the cause of 
the prevailing northwest winds. On account of 
the proximity of the ocean there must be an excess 
of vapor there' as compared with the currents on 
the summit of Mount Washington. 

THE WIND AND THE BAROMETER. 

From my observations here and on Moosilauke, 
it is quite certain that during periods of storm there 
is a close connection between the velocity of the 
wind and the rise and fall of the barometer. By a 
period of storm we mean the time embraced in any 



BAROMETER AND THE WIND. 299 

severe and extensive commotion of the atmosphere. 
These commotions here usually last from twelve to 
thirty-six hours, and may extend to forty-eight 
hours before the barometer rises to its mean height. 
For each period of storm during our observations, 
I have constructed two curves on the same time 
scale, one representing the velocity of the wind, the 
other the rise and fall of the barometer, and find 
that the ordinates of these curves almost exactly 
correspond. In one instance the barometer went 
up when there was a lull in the midst of the storm, 
but went down as the velocity of the wind again 
increased, which it continued to do for half an hour, 
when there were frequent lulls, accompanied by a 
gradual rise in the barometer until the storm ceased. 
Why is it that the barograms correspond so exactly 
with the velocity of the wind ? 

An explanation of this curious phenomena is 
given by Mr. F. Gaston, F. R. S., in the Proceed- 
ings of the British Association : — 

" The answer to this question will best be con- 
veyed by a consideration of what we should expect 
the movements of the mercurial column to be if a 
suitably made baroiiieter were plunged into troubled 
water. Its movements would not correspond to 
each ripple that passed vertically above its cistern, 
because it would be affected by all the disturbance 
in an area of surface water whose radius is a func- 



800 THE WIND. 

tion of the depth of immersion. If it were plunged 
to the depth of many fathoms the mercury would 
wholly cease to oscillate, because the average level 
of the area with which it sympathizes would be 
constant however much its surface might be broken 
up into undulations. If it were immersed to a 
suitable depth, the mercury would foretell the ad- 
vent of each wave of exceptional size, before an ex- 
ceptional height of water had arrived vertically jcbove 
the barometer. It is easy and interesting to make 
an experiment to the same efiect, by dipping a glass 
tube, open at both ends, straight into a pan of 
water and disturbing the water with the hand. 
When the tube is dipped but a short way in, the 
water it encloses harmonizes in its oscillations with 
the water that surrounds it, but this harmony is 
diminished and the oscillations in the tube become 
more sluggish, as the tube is immersed more deeply, 
and at length they disappear altogether. In pre- 
cisely the same way I believe the mercury in the 
barometer sympathizes with atmospheric disturbance 
throughout a wide circle." 




CHAPTER XVni. 



STORMS. 




T IS difficult to convey in words any vivid 
idea of the terrific grandeur of the storms 
in winter upon the summit of Mount 
Washington. They have probably been more se- 
vere than any ever before experienced, especially 
when the cold is taken as one of the elements. 
The storm of the 18th of October is noticed on 
page 167. There was a storm of some severity the 
24th of November, when I was alone on the moun- 
tain. But the most severe storm, of all that we 
had, occurred on the 16th of December, and as it 
was the first terrific storm since the house had been 
built which we occupied, we did not feel that 
security, that we should in one that had stood the 
force of the storms in winters past. The other 
houses are of stone, ours of wood, and besides 
presented a much greater surface to the wind than 
any building ever before erected on the summit. 
Two of the party had never been on a mountain 
summit during a winter storm, so they would be 



802 STORMS. 

likely to describe it more vividly than a person 
who had witnessed many : -^ 

" We have had probably as severe a tornado as 
will visit us during the winter. The velocity of 
tlie wind was recorded at seven o'clock in the even- 
ing, and it was ninety-two miles per hour. After 
that time it was not safe to venture out with the 
anemometer, unless we wanted to take an air-line 
passage to Tuckerman's Ravine ; for the wind kept 
increasing until toward morning, when it blew a ter- 
rific hurricane. Mr. Huntington and Mr. Clough, 
both having had considerable of this kind of ex- 
perience, say it must have blown, at the highest 
point, one hundred and ten to one-hundred and 
twenty miles per hour. We expected at any mo- 
ment to have the building come down about our 
heads, and were prepared to make an effort for 
our lives, having put hard-tack in our pockets, and 
armed with axe and saw, ready, in case we found 
it necessary, to cut our way out, getting also some 
of our thickest blankets ready for use, and prepar- 
ing with considerable excitement for any emer- 
gency. The wind roared terribly, as if inspired 
with the power and spite of all the furies, and the 
wild rage was so deafening that we were obliged 
to shout to our utmost in order to be heard. 

" Messrs. Huntington and Clough were both very 
cool, although I believe they thought the chances 



NIGHT WATCHES. 803 

were more than even that we would have quarters 
elsewhere before morning ; and Mr. Smith, the 
gentlemanly meteorological observer sent by the 
government to this station, was quite jolly, offering 
such consolation as this : ' If we were blown down 
into Tuckerman's Ravine, it would be for the " ben- 
efit of commerce," and so, of course, all right.' It 
seemed too much like cracking jokes while sitting 
up with a corpse, however, to be much relished. 
We watched all night, waiting anxioysly the effect 
or result of the hurricane, and after a long night 
of such fearful tumult, morning brought us a little 
relief, by reducing the velocity of the wind to 
eighty-four miles per hour. We were duly thank- 
ful for this slight change, and at breakfast we con- 
gratulated each other on our narrow escape; for, 
if the building had been crushed, our chance for 
wishing any one a * Merry Christmas ' and * Happy 
New Year ' would have been very small ; for the 
mercury was 15® below zero, and the barometer, 
the lowest recorded so far, 22.796. This remark- 
able fell will not happen often, but when it does, 
we shall keep housed. 

" The immediate danger is passed, however, and 
our good cover has been severely tested, and has 
not been found wanting in point of strength. We 
have more confidence in it than we had before 
the storm." 



804 STORMS. 

Daring the storm so great was the force of the 
wind, that the three-inch planks which had been 
securely bolted across the opening where the train 
enters the building in summer, were pressed in four 
or more inches, while the end of the building and 
the side towards the wind, and finally the whole 
structure, had a vibratory motion not altogether 
pleasant. 

THE STORM OF TWENTY-SECOND AND TWENTY-THIKD 

OF JANUARY. 

We had' another storm the twenty-second and 
twenty-third of January. Though the wind was not 
so fearful as the storm of December, yet the cold 
was more intense. The building had been tried 
by previous storms and we felt more secure. But 
the roar of the storm and the ice thrown against 
the building, like showers of grape, kept us wide 
awake. In the journal of this date will be found 
additional notes of this storm, and in the meteoro- 
logical record it will be seen how uniform was the 
fall of the barometer, until the storm reached its 
culmination. 

During the storm of the fourth and fifth of Feb- 
ruary the cold exceeded in intensity anything we 
had the whole winter. The gale began on Thurs- 
day, the second, quite suddenly, and reached its 
height on the fourth, about midnight, when the 
velocity of the wind was estimated at one hundred 



INTENSELY COLD, 305 

miles per hour, and the barometer was 22.464, the 
lowest recorded. To it was added the most intense 
cold ever experienced short of arctic regions, the 
thermometer indicating 59 below zero at three 
o'clock Sunday morning, the fifth. 

THE COLD IN ARCTIC REGIONS. 

In arctic regions, the intense cold " is breathless, 
still, and bright ; " and Dr. Carpenter in his " Hu- 
man Physiology, says " " that in the experience of 
Arctic voyagers the temperature of — 50° may be 
sustained when the air is perfectly still, with less 
inconvenience than is caused by air in motion at a 
temperature of 50° higher." . The immunity from 
chilling influences is "chiefly attributable to the 
dryness and stillness of the atmosphere." But 
here we had neither dryness nor stillness, for the 
wind was at least eighty miles per hour, while the 
cold was most intense. Above it was perfectly 
clear, but below there was a dense haze which had 
more the appearance of smoke than clouds. Dur- 
ing this period of cold, when the temperature was 
— 21°, and the wind a little more than sixty miles 
per hour, my nose was frozen in less than three min- 
utes, while standing with my back to the wind. 
Mr. Nelson, when the cold was most intense, had 
his fingers frost-bitten while cutting a piece of meat, 
directly over our room. When it is so intensely cold 
a person freezes without feeling the least sensation 



806 STORMS. 

of cold. During my stay on Moosilauke I made 
the ascent of the mountain when the thermometer 
was at zero, and the wind was seventy miles per 
hour, though I was not exposed to the full force of 
the wind until within a short distance of the house. 
Here I went about forty rods from the house when 
the thermometer was — 16® and the wind above 
sixty miles per hour. In the most intense cold we 
had and when the velocity of the wind was so great, 
it is probable that a person would become instantly 
insensible. 

During a gale on the 10th of February we 
were not the only witnesses. " It was not accom- 
panied by such intense cold, although the tem- 
perature was quite low, reaching 21'' below zero at 
seven o'clock the next morning. There was a 
downward tendency in the barometer in the morn- 
ing, and it was quite low throughout the afternoon 
and until late in the evening, when the tempest be- 
gan to abate. Its lowest point was 23.033, and its 
variations followed the rise and fall of the wind 
quite closely. The wind, which was blowing at the 
rate of fifty-two miles an hour at seven a. m., in- 
creased to eighty-seven miles by the middle of the 
forenoon. At noon it had decreased to forty-eight 
miles, but at two p. m., it had begun business with 
renewed vigor, eighty-eight miles being indicated. 
At three o'clock, the anemometer marked seventy- 
six miles, and at seven p. m., when the last obser- 



A FURIOUS GALE. 30T 

vation with that instrument was taken, it had again 
reached eighty-eight miles. For the next hour or so 
the gale increased in fury, until it reached at least 
one hundred miles per hour. The wind howled and 
thundered without like an army of angry demons, 
while an incessant pelting of the building was kept 
up with pieces of ice and dislodged frost-work. At 
times it seemed as if the whole side of the depot 
was about to be crushed in. Added to the roaring 
of the storm there was seemingly an individual 
creak and groan for every plank in the whole 
structure, and a universal rattling of everything 
that could emit a sound. In the midst of the storm 
there came a sudden crash, followed by a rushing, 
seething noise, and it was discovered that a window 
had been broken. The aperture was closed by 
nailing boards across the inside, and further dam- 
age was prevented. With each occasional lull, the 
framework and supports of the structure, which had 
been strained to their utmost, sprang back to their 
places with another startling report." 

The wind during the storms already mentioned, 
was northwest, or a little more towards the north. 
On the 3d of March the storm was from the S.S.E. 
and the wind reached a velocity of ninety-eight 
miles per hour, and the rain swept along in torrents, 
completely deluging the mountain. In March the 
mountain was more free from storms and clouds 
than any month during our stay. In April there 



808 STORMS. 

was only one very severe rain-storm, and that was 
from the southwest on the 5th. A thunder-storm 
on the 11th, which was quite severe in the valleys 
adjacent did not reach the summit ; the flashes of 
lightning, however, could be seen, buf'the thunder 
was heard only as a distant roar. As it was snow- 
ing on the mountain the storm must have been &r 
below us. It snowed nearly half the month, and 
the storms were quite like those in ,the valleys in 
winter, while here in the winter months it snowed 
very little, and the snow-flakes seemed to be mere 
spiculdB, fragments that below may have formed 
regular flakes. So it seems altogether probable 
that the snow clouds of winter are at quite a low 
elevation. The first half of May was very much 
like April, though the snow-storms were more fre- 
quent, and in places the drifts were of greater depth 
than at any time previous. During the winter it 
sometimes rained when the thermometer was 23°, 
and snowed when it was 38°. In case of rain, the 
clouds must have been driven up from a much 
lower elevation. When the wind is seventy and 
eighty miles per hour it does not take a cloud long 
to come half a mile up the mountain. 

Whether we watch the storm as it approaches, 
or feel its force as it breaks in all its fury on the 
summit, there is a grandeur and sublimity in these 
manifestations that fills the mind with awe and 
wonder. 




CHAPTER XIX. 



METEOROLOGICAL BECOED. 




HESE tables comprise the observations 
taken on the summit of Mount Washing- 
ton, lat. 44° 16' 34'' north, long. 71° 20'. 
west, 6,291.7 feet above the level of the sea, 
during a period of six months, from November 12, 
1870, to May 13, 1871. On account of our high 
elevation the record in regard to clouds necessarily 
differs from ordinary observations, in that the clouds 
were frequently below our level. Those we looked 
down upon, sometimes, undoubtedly seemed to us 
to be of a dififerent kind from what they would to 
an observer looking at them from below. At no 
time during the winter months were we able to see 
that the clouds above the summit moved in a dif- 
ferent direction from those immediately around us. 
In April and May, however, the clouds both above 
and below frequently moved in a different direction 
from those at the elevation of the summit. The 

• 

other observations are the same as those taken at 
low elevations. In the last table are the thermo- 



810 METEOROLOGICAL RECORD. 

grams ^ of the three winter months at Mount Wash- 
ington ; Montreal, Q. P., from observations by Chas. 
Smallwood, LL. D., D. C. L., etc.; Lunenburg, 
Vt., from observations by H. A. Cutting, M. D. ; 
and Providence, R. I. from observations by Alexis 
Caswell, LL.D., etc. The observations were taken 
syncronously, except that the last column of the 
Providence observations, were taken at ten p. m. 
instead of nine p. m. In this table the fractions 
have been omitted, though they have been used in 
calculating the mean. 

THE INSTRUMENTS WE USED. 

The anemometer, the instrument we used for 
measuring the velocity of the wind, which is here 
represented, consists essentially of four hemispheri- 
cal cups, having their diametrical planes exposed to 
a passing current of air. They are carried by four 
horizontal arms attached to a vertical shaft, which 
is caused to rotate by the velocity of the wind. 

1 We have used the word thermograms for the record of the 
height of the mercury in the thermometer. We usually say the 
height of the thermometer, or simply the thermometer, as a name 
for this record. But thermometer is the name of the instrument, 
and is inappropriate as expressing a record of the height of the 
mercury in the tube. The word thermogram is derived from 
Oepfiri, heat, and ypafifi-fi, that which is written ; so literally it means 
that which is written of the heat, hence the appropriateness of the 
word. We might follow the word barograms in the same way, but 
this is unnecessary. 




ANEMOMETER. 



THE ANEMOMETER. 311 

Dr. Robinson found that the cups, and, conse- 
quently, the axis to which they are attached, revolve 
with one third of the wind's velocity, which is here 
measured by a simple arrangement of two wheels, 
working in endless screws, and by means of two 
indices, shows on inspection of the dial, the velocity 
of the wind. The outer or front wheel, which re- 
volves once for every five miles, is furnished with 
two graduated circles, the interior circle being sub- 
divided to miles and tenths of miles, whilst the 
outer circle is divided into one hundred and one 
parts, each part being equivalent to five miles, so 
that it measures 505 miles of wind. 

The stationary index, at the top of the dial, marks 
on the inner circle the number- of miles — under 
five — and tenths, that the wind may have traversed, 
in addition to the miles shown by the traversing 
index, which revolves with the dial and indicates on 
the outer circle the transit of every five miles. 

Thermometers are so well known that a descrip- 
tion here is unnecessary. How low a temperature 
a mercurial thermometer will register correctly is a 
question. That the mercury here fell gradually to 
— 59, and then rose again with the same regularity 
as in other extreme changes, is certain. 

The Anemoscope or Wind-vane. We made many 
attempts to keep a vane on the building, but it was 
blown down every time it was put up. When 



812 METEOROLOGICAL RECORD, 

the rod did not break the tail of the vane would 
become so loaded with ice that it would not turn 
to the wind. As a consequence a light vane had 
to be used which could be taken in to free it 
from ice. 

The barometers we used here were manufactured 
by James Green of New York. The principle of 
these is also well known. 

The Hygrometer. Though this instrument is 
common enough, very few persons perhaps, even 
among scientific men, fully appreciate its importance. 
Nearly every person has noticed that at certain 
times various substances attract the moisture of the 
atmosphere, or rather the particles of moisture enter 
the loose and open texture of substances exposed to 
the air and cause them to expand: wood swells, 
tobacco is sensibly affected, salt becomes moist, a 
rope contracts; these are for some persons k hy- 
grometer, or " measure of moisture." The most 
simple mechanical device for measuring the mois- 
ture is a well-twisted elastic cord suspended with a 
small weight at the end. The rise and fall of the 
weight will show the variation of moisture in the 
air. In the weather-house, the man coming out in 
wet weather and the lady in dry ; the contracting 
substance used in these is catgut or hair. A simi- 
lar toy is the capuchin, in which the monk puts on 
his hood when the air is damp. But all animal 



THE HYGROMETEK 318 

substances deteriorate from time and exposure, and 
soon lose tlieir hygrometric properties. 

The instrument in most common use is the dry 
and wet bulb hygrometer. This, although perhaps 
suggested by others, was brought into general notice 
in England by Dr. John A. Mason. As modified 
by Glaisher it consists of two thermometers exactly 
similar and having a fine thread of mercury. One 
bulb is covered with a fine piece of muslin. From 
this a lamp-wick extends into a cup of water. 
When the mercury is below the freezing point the 
bulb is covered with a film of ice. 

Dr. Schaefier of Washington, D. 0., has in- 
vented a revolving hygrometer which, especially in 
extremely warm or cold weather, seems preferable 
to any other. It differs &om the last in that the 
bulbs are straight or oblong, instead of hemispheri- 
cal. Water, at the temperature of the air or as near 
it as possible, is put upon one of the bulbs, with a 
camel's hair brushj then the instrument is revolved 
rapidly until the water evaporates, when the read- 
ing of the instrument is taken. . The evaporation of 
water or ice takes from the bulb that amount of 
heat required for its conversion into vapor, and the- 
consequent cold is shown by the fall of the mer- 
cury. This depression of the mercury measures 
strictly only the evaporating power, of the air, as 
the latter depends on the amount of moisture in 



314 METEOROLOGICAL RECORD, 

the atmosphere, and the depression of the wet bulb 
of the thermometer indurectly measures the humid- 
ity of the air. 

The sanitary and the horticultural uses of the 
hygrometer deserve more attention than they have 
heretofore received. A hygrometer in our dwell- 
ings and public halls would tell us at once whether 
the requisite amount of moisture is present, for our 
sensations cannot guide us in regard to humidity. 

The fact that the quantity of vapor is least dur- 
ing the winter months, and that at the same time 
the relative humidity is at its maximum, would to 
most persons probably seem paradoxical. But the 
relative humidity of the air depends not only on the 
amount of vapor it contains, but also on its degree 
of temperature. 

The figures given in our tables for humidity is the 
ratio which the vapor actually present in the at- 
mospheife bears to the amount which it would con- 
tain if it was saturated, that is, when there is 
present the utmost quantity of water it can contain 
in suspension. 

Complete saturation is taken at 100^ and it de- 
creases from this to perfect dryness. 

The difficulty we have experienced is from the 
want of tables calculated for low temperatures and 
fractions of a degree. 

The accompanying cut represents " Edson's 




HYGBODBIK. 



THE HYGRODEIK. 316 

Hygrodeik," an instrument adapted to general use. 
It diflFers from all otlier hygrometers in having a 
dial and pointer, showing at a glance the tempera- 
ture, the relative humidity, the dew point, the abso- 
lute weight of vapor in cubic foot of air, and the 
elastic force of aqueous vapor. Thus simplified, it 
is adapted to meet every-day wants, and yet is sus- 
ceptible of delicate adjustment for scientific pur- 
poses. Its principal uses are as a guide, — out- 
doors to aid in foretelling the weather, — in-doors 
to preserve health ; and in manufactories and store- 
houses, to prevent injury to goods or materials of 
any kind, by shrinking, swelling, rust, mildew, or 
any chemical change due to excess or deficiency of 
moisture. 




iyr7i]i|ii|ir 



M !J^5iJ>^i» 



MilliiM 



9WM 



nffli 



iiiiiiiii ii!"il 



Uiii 



-^. 



aasssa" a s-^s^saasa* 



asassas ■= a=iB*aasss • 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



817 



NOVEMBER. 





« 




Winds. 










Baboosams at 2aP, 


Date. 


1 < 


1 


1^ 


• 

1 


• 

s • 
1" 


1 
I 












g t* 


24 


s^ 


26 


jS o 


S 

22 


7 a.m. 


2 p.m. 


9 p.m. 


Meam. 


18 


N.W. 


N.W. 


N.W. 


28.264 


28.424 


28.180 


28.289 


14 


W. 


18 


S.W. 


42 


S.W. 


41 


.298 


.888 


.824 


.820 


15 


w. 


5 


W. 


2 


W. 


1 


.296 


.864 


.485 


.865 


16 


w. 


14 


w. 


15 


w. 


28 


.468 


.471 


.588 


.609 


17 


w. 


16 


W. 


14 


w. 


2 


.595 


.702 


.698 


.668 


18 


w. 


4 


S.W. 


6 


S.W. 


5 


.664 


.562 


.486 


.567 


19 


w. 


7 


N.W. 


11 


N.W. 


14 


.814 


' a80 


.158 


.217 


ao 


w. 


16 


W. 


18 


N.W. 


2 


.427 


.488 


.546 


.485 


21 


w. 


12 


W. 


15 


8.W. 


46 


.561 


.600 


.511 


.624 


22 


s. 


1 


s. 


8 


s. 


85 


.863 


.865 


.775 


.884 


28 


s. • 


27 


S.W. 


26 


S.W. 


86 


.406 


.204 


.124 


.244 


24 


w. 


78 


N.W. 


76 


N.W. 


68 


.022 


.006 


.295 


.137 


25 


N.W. 


25 


N.W. 


14 


N.W. 


12 


.581 


.596 


0^68 


.582 


26 


w. 


4 


N.W. 


16 


N.W. 


26 


.488 


.189 


.801 


.824 


27 


N.W. 


47 


N.W. 


46 


N.W. 


14 


.265 


.278 


.438 


.826 


28 


N.W. 


15 


N.W. 


17 


N.W. 


14 


.586 


.708 


.794 


.696 


29 


W. 


5 


W. 


4 


W. 


17 


.701 


.665 


.616 


.657 


80 


N.W. 


17 


N.W. 


24 


<I.W. 


47 


.609 


.628 


.663 


.688 


aiMa 


28.465 



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mx 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



817 



NOVEMBER. 





« 




Winds. 










Babocuams A9 2aP» 






• 




m 

3 




• 














o 




O 




A 














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• 


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I 


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gt* 


24 


g" 


26 


s ^ 


22 


7 a.m. 


2 p.m. 


9 P.M. 


Meam. 


18 


N.W. 


N.W. 


N.W. 


28.264 


28.424 


28.180 


28.289 


14 


W. 


18 


S.W. 


42 


S.W. 


41 


.298 


.888 


.824 


.820 


15 


W. 


6 


W. 


2 


W. 


1 


.296 


.864 


.485 


.865 


16 


W. 


14 


W, 


15 


W. 


28 


.468 


.471 


.588 


.609 


17 


W. 


16 


W. 


14 


W. 


2 


.595 


.702 


.698 


.668 


18 


W. 


4 


S.W. 


6 


S.W. 


5 


.664 


.562 


.486 


.667 


19 


W. 


7 


N.W. 


11 


N.W. 


14 


.814 


■ .180 


.158 


311 


ao 


W. 


16 


W. 


18 


N.W. 


2 


.427 


.483 


.546 


.485 


21 


W. 


12 


w. 


15 


S.W. 


46 


.561 


.500 


.511 


.524 


22 


8. 


1 


8. 


8 


s. 


85 


.863 


.865 


.775 


.884 


28 


8. • 


27 


8.W. 


26 


8.W. 


86 


.406 


.204 


.124 


.244 


24 


W. 


78 


N.W. 


76 


N.W. 


68 


.022 


.086 


.295 


.137 


25 


N.W. 


25 


N.W. 


14 


N.W. 


12 


.581 


.596 


0^68 


.582 


26 


W. 


4 


N.W. 


16 


N.W. 


26 


.488 


.189 


.801 


.824 


27 


N.W. 


47 


N.W. 


46 


N.W. 


14 


.265 


.278 


.438 


.825 


28 


N.W. 


15 


N.W. 


17 


N.W. 


14 


.586 


.708 


.794 


.696 


29 


W. 


6 


W. 


4 


W. 


17 


.701 


.655 


.616 


.657 


80 


N.W. 


17 


N.W. 


24 


N.W. 


47 


.609 


.628 


.663 


.688 


Mam 


28.465 



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METEOROLOGICAL 

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TABLES. 819 



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PS 






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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



821 



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822 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



828 






I I 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



825 



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826 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLES, 



9* 

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



827 



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333 


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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



329 










.782 
.897 
678 
.266 
.887 
22.969 
4162 




.742 

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.620 
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22.929 
28.678 




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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



881 









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884 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



I 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



886 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 837 



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840 



METEQROLOGICAL TABLES. 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 





Tn£U.o=^».,2l>-«. 




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1 

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20 

1 

34 
26 
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HUFS or HOHTB. 




PART FOURTH. 

WHAT THE WORLD SAID OP Ua 



j^&BHHE members of the expedition whose Mb- 
^jJHjfll tory has been narrated in the foregoing 
"^^^^ pages have been interested in what has 
been said of them by the public. At their respect- 
ive breakfast-tables they have often wondered what 
was being said of them in hundreds of families 
where they had reason to believe the previous 
night's dispatch was being read aloud from the 
morning journal. 

From time to time there have appeared in the 
newspapers references to oar occupation of the sum- 
mit, expressing the opinions of various writers, either 
upon the facts reported or the general prospects of 
the expedition. As these may represent the table- 
talk of the morning, we have selected a few extracts 
from the many before as, for preservation with our 
record. As the tendency to burlesque is a national 
American trait, we have been favored with a very 
large proportion of articles of an amusing chantc- 



846 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US. 

ter, whose perusal has raised our spirits during some 
of the dull days, when aU was disagreeable without 
and dark within. 

For the entertainment of the mountain party a 
card-basket was manufactured from birch bark 
grown at the base of Mount Washington, orna- 
mented with outline sketches and pithy remarks. 
Both the sketches and quotations were intended as 
prophetic, the latter having been uttered while the 
project was yet untried, and the former designed 
early in the winter. The conflicting opinions of the 
doubters and believers in the ultimate success of 
the enterprise appear in direct contrast. Our read- 
ers may judge for themselves to which class the 
true prophets belonged. 

Early in 1870 the following item went the rounds 
of the papers respecting the crime of one of the at- 
tempts at climbing Moosilauke : — 

" In wandering around trying to find the house 
upon the summit, Mr. Huntington froze both feet 
solid above the ankles, rendering amputation neces- 
sary. His sufierings were of the most fearful de- 
scription." 

As an estimate of the way in which such a re- 
port, if true, would have been held by many per- 
sons, we quote an opinion expressed thus in our 
hearing not long afterwards : — 

" Now if they had crippled themselves in a noble 




PrmnM la J, H. lI^^Tl^0Tos, a-f, E6H. 18T0. 



B4BE SNOW-JP-LAKE. 847 

canse, they would have had something to sustain 
them under the affliction ; but to deliberately throi/i 
away health and the hopes of a life^time for a mere 
nothing — so idiotic — so like a lunatic — perfectly 
chimerical 1 " 

RARE SNOW-FLAKE. 

On the sixth of January Mr. Nelson added to 
the usual Press dispatch the following : " We noticed 
a snow-flake this morning of an hitherto undescribed 
form." Very shortly afterwards, the public read 
the following : — 

" A STARTLING DISCOVERY. 

" A party of fossilized scientific maniacs are winter- 
ing out on the top of Mount Washington,- N. H., 
andagaping^world stands below in anticipation of 
great discoveries ! 

" After laying in a good store of edibles and drink- 
ables, and other little luxuries, such as playing cards 
and cribbage boards (constructed on purely scien- 
tific principles, according to Hoyle), they have just 
got to work on their startling discovery. We palpi- 
tate as we record the first sensation which they 
have pondescended to let loose to the world. It is 
that they have discovered a new and hitherto un- 
known species of — mow'flake / 

*' What efiect this tremendous discovery will have 



848 WHAT THE WORLD SAW OF US. 

on the subsequent development of the resources of 
the country time alone can determine. ' It is barel j 
possible that this new snow-flake will be adopted all 
over the country, and that the old-^fashioned article 
will be done away with altogether I 

^' If such should be the case, the country, and those 
individuals who have provided these high old dad- 
dies with their elabcMrate oxxt&t, can congratulate 
themselves on not having lived, or spent their 
money in viain.'* 

THE GREAT POWDER HOUSE MIMi EXPEDITION.^ 

A long account of the organization and equip- 
ment of the expedition appeared with the above 
title, from which we present the following extract : — 

•' Thstt 19th of December will be long remem- 
bered by those who had the good fortune to witness 
the procession as it started for the summit. Each 
individual of the party was dressed in a complete 
suit of seal-skins, and bore an enormous flag with 
the motto * Excelsior ! ' A noble and fearless band 
of martyrs to science ; determined to freeze or per- 
ish in the attempt ! Next, after a feast worthy of 
Delmonico's, came our marvelous interesting obser- 
vations, as soon as the party had reached the sum- 
mit. During the journey up hill our best thermom- 
eter was broken. This cast a gloom over the party, 
until Professor Blowpipe with wonderful presence 



TIP-TOP HOUSE IN A STORM. 849 

of mind suggested that we should take turns in 
standing out in the cold, and then ^ guess ' in rela- 
tion to the temperature. The historian tried it 
first ; and after roosting on top of the old house 
gave it as his deliberate opinion that it was about 
71® below zero. The barometer was 42^ in the 
shade ; the velocity of the wind frightful to contem- 
plate ; and before we had completed our first day's 
experience, each individual member of the party 
said that the ^ Bdative Stupidity^ of the whole 
affiur was at least * 99 M " 

TIP-TOP HOUSE IN A STORM* 

An illustrated weekly attempted to delineate the 
residence of our party upon the summit when the 
storm was raging. The building drawn^ was the 
Tip-top House, which was not inhabited at all 
during the winter, and a part of the text accom- 
panying the illustration was the following : — • 

" The deep snows that obstruct the road to the 
summit, and render it impassable for months, shut 
them off as effectually from the rest of the world as 
if they were floating on an iceberg, in that famous 
polar main which you must first see to believe in — 
only that they have the telegraph with which to 
communicate with their fellow-men. The accounts 
which they send us of the state of the atmosphere 
are not exactly what old ladies call * inviting/ It 



850 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US. 

is a singular fact, however, that the thermometer 
indicates a less intense degree of cold on the very 
summit of the mountain than prevailed during the 
storm at Lowell and other places no fiirther north. 
The principal discomfort arises from tha violence 
of the wind.' " 

RETARDATION OF SCIENCE. 

'^The progress of science in this country has ex- 
perienced a heavy blow. We refer to the gale of 
wind which the professors and others, encamped for 
the winter on the summit of Mount Washington, 
reported December 15th, its velocity being ninety- 
two miles per hour." 

EXHAUSTION OP SUPPLIES. 

In January the sympathy of the public was ex- 
cited by the following item : " Of the eleven tons 
of coal taken up for the winter's stock of the me- 
teorologists at the summit of Mount Washington, 
over one half was consumed a week ago. Their 
stove contains seven dampers (!), which during the 
gales will not stop the draft and rattle fearfully." 

A similar report prevailed in regard to the provis- 
ions. The correspondent of the Boston " Journal," 
who visited the party early in February, promptly 
denied the truth of these rumors, and they quickly 
disappeared from sight. At the breaking up of the 



" THE MAD PHILOSOPHERS." 851 

expedition it wa^ found that enough supplies were 
on hand to maintain the Signal Service party for 
several weeks. 

" THB MAD MOUNT WASHINGTON PHILOSOPHERS. 

" The scientific persons on the summit of Mount 
Washington have temporarily abandoned the scien- 
tific pastime of sliding down hill, the extreme cold- 
ness of the weather* having indicated euchre and 
catch-penny — games which can be .played within 
doors — as more appropriate to the season than out- 
of-door sports. One of their number, however, 
whose name is said to be Smith, recently went forth 
to * measure the velocity of the wind, ' — a process 
which we presume to be identical with the boyish 
sport of kite-flying, — and after an exposure of five 
minutes, returned to the house * completely covered 
with frost two inches in thickness.' We must be per- 
mitted to have our doubts in regard to Smith. The 
name itself has a suspicious look. There may be a 
person of that name, but we wholly reject the theory 
of a Smith coated with two inches of firost, and yet 
sufBciently lively to telegraph his condition to an as- 
tonished public. Much science has probably made 
Smith mad. He doubtless labors under the delusion 
that he is a sort of plum-pudding glace^ and with that 
method in his madness so often noticeable even in 
unscientific lunatics, invents the hypothesis of an ac- 



862 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US. 

cident occurring while measuring the wind to ac- 
count for his supposed condition. This theory 
receives additional confirmation from the fact that 
Smith voluntarily took up his abode on Mount 
Washington, a course of conduct of which it is absurd 
to suppose that a sane person would be guilty. No 
right-minded man can excuse the scientific persons 
who permitted Smith to expose himself by kite-fly- 
ing with the mercury twenty-five below zero. Of 
(course no one would expect from them the same 
practical common sense which we look for in unsci- 
entific people, but it really was too thoughtless* to 
permit a scientific fellow-creature to venture out in 
such extreme cold for the mad purpose of ^ meas- 
uring the wind.' It is time that some charitable 
person should take measures to protect these un- 
happy persons from their own mad selves." 

" AN ICE MYSTBRY OF SCIENCE* 

"What has become of the scientific persons 
who retired to Mount Washington at the beginning 
of the winter to slide down hill and fly kites in 
the interests of science ? Since the cold morning 
some six weeks ago, we have heard no news of 
them. It is therefore possible that they have fallen 
victims to the inclemency of the weather, and are 
now sitting stiff and cold around their extinguished 
fire, holding in their icy hands the frozen cards 



AN OFFICIAL REPORT! 353 

wherewith they were playing strictly 3cientific 
games when the frost-king called them." 

We have space for only one other extract, which 
purports to be the official report of the expedition, 
addressed to the chief signal officer : — 

" It was the original design of the Expedition to 
ascend the mountain early in November, but it 
was finally thought fit to defer the ascent until 
the mountains should become inaccessible. This 
occurred on the 25th of that month. On the next 
day, the roads being entirely impassable, the gentle- 
men composing the expedition proceeded to make 
the ascent, and starting from the Notch at seven 
A. M., reached the summit at 4.38 p. m. A com- 
modious hut had been erected for their accommoda- 
tion, and was already' well stocked with sextants, 
quadrants, patent sounding lines, life-buoys, play- 
ing cards, telescopes, demijohns, cold hams, diving- 
bells, sleds, patent car-couples, kites, magnetic tele- 
graphs, steam-engines, and other necessary scientific 
apparatus. The entire expedition being quite ex- 
hausted in point of legs by the exertions of the 
ascent, immediately went to bed, without making 
any observations except those of a strictly personal 
nature. • On the following day the secretary began 
to keep a full diary of each day's proceedings, a 
copy of which is hereby submitted. 

^^ November 27. Height of thermometer 20^; 



354 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US, 

barometer, 1.464. Mean direction of wind, north- 
west. Greatest velocity of wind 2.40 per hour. 
Weather clear, but cloudy. At ten a. m. the ex- 
pedition was mustered for sliding down hill. It was 
found by experiment that the sleds ran more rapidly 
down hill than in the contrary direction, This 
was accounted for by Prdfessor Huntington upon 
the theory of tittlebats, and an able paper upon the 
subject was prepared and read by him the same 
evening. (See Schedule A, annexed to this report.) 

** November 29. Snow fell heavily to the depth as 
measured in the pail standing at the northwest 
comer of the Observatory, of ten feet Professor 
Smith, incautiously endeavoring to continue his 
experiments in sliding down hill, was buried in the 
snow. The expedition dug over some thirty acres 
of snow in the attempt to find and extricate him, 
but without success. Hot water was then sprinkled 
over the snow until it melted, when the professor 
was found, much exhausted, but full of ardor, he 
fortunately having a pocket flask with him. 

" December 5. Hailing violently. Professor Jones 
became lost on the mountain, and hailed the other 
members of the expedition for two consecutive hours 
in vain. As they were listening to a paper on the 
" Origin of MumblePeg," prepared and read by 
Professor Hitchcork, no attention was paid to Pro- 
fessor Jones. When he was finally discovered, he 



THE MALLEABLE PROFESSOR. 865 

was covered with a coating of ice three inches in 
thickness, and of great purity. With a view to 
making further experiments upon him, he was left 
in an exposed position until morning, when he was 
unfortunately found to be insensible. Boiling water 
after a time proved efficacious in reviving him. 
The coating of ice, however, seemed to have 
rendered his nervous system peculiarly irritable. 

*^ December 9. The application which had been 
made to the Department at Washington for per- 
mission to allow the wind at the summit to exceed 
the velocity prescribed by Professor Maury, was 
returned approved. During the evening chemical 
experiments were made illustrating the ease with 
which whiskey, water, cigars, and lemon can be made 
to c<mibine. The slight intoxicating effect of the 
mixture was unanimously attributed to the lemon. 
A paper enforcing that view was read by Professor 
Wood. 

" December 10. Wind north by west, blowing 
with a velocity of one hundred and twenty miles 
per minnte. Professor Smith venturing to stand on 
the windward side of the Observatory, was instantly 
flattened against the boarding. He was spread out 
over an area of eighteen square feet, and experienced 
considerable inconvenience from the disarrangement 
of his hair. Toward evening the wind lulled, and "" 

he was carefully detached by knives, and laid upon 



856 WHAT THE WORLD SAID OF US. 

the shelf until means for his compression could be 
devised. 

" De<?6Jw6er 13. Another violent wind. The spare 
shirt of the e^fpedition, which was hung upon a Kne 
in the rear of the observatory, was blown into narrow 
strips. The question being raised, whether the 
wind would have the same effect upon a human 
being, it was resolved to secure a boy for the pur- 
pose of trying the experiment. 

** December 18. After each member of the expedi- 
tion had read a paper upon the * Malleability of 
Scientific Persons, as exemplified in the flattening 
of Professor Smith,' an attempt to compress that 
gentlemen was made. He was laid upon the floor 
and hammered, chiefly on his edges, by large sledge 
hammers. After six hours of continuous hammering 
he had regained nearly his former shape. He was 
entirely satisfied with the result. 

" January 1, 1871. The boy who had been sent 
for ^- age sixteen, weight ninety pounds — arrived, 
and he was fastened to the clothes line, the expedi- 
tion sitting around him. The wind was blowing with 
a velocity of three hundred miles in thirty-nine min- 
utes. Such was its violence that the bottom was im- 
mediately blown out of a tumbler, the mouth of 
which had been presented to the wind. Professor 
Nelson made a fine sketch in oil of the scene. In 
eleven minutes and eight seconds after the boy was 



• "DUCTILITY OF BOYS.'' 357 

hung upon the line he was blown into shreds of not 
more than the thickness of twine. The expedition 
then returned into the Observatory, and in the even- 
ing Professor Jones read an admirable paper .upon 
the * Ductility of Boys.' 

^^ March 10. The last of the assimilating fluids 
was exhausted, and the expedition voted unanimously 
to descend the mountain." 





SIOO.00 
50.00 

. 60.00 
30.00 



SUBSCRIBERS TO THE MOUHT WASHINaTOH 
EXPEDITION. 
Katlianiel Thayer 
John Cummings 
SmitliBouian Institution 
Edward Wi^leawortii 

SUB8CRIBERB TO THE AMODNT 

C. J. Spr^ae, Eemble & HaalJDgB, J. M. Forbes, Fuller, 
Dana, & Fitts, J. L. Little, and M. K. Hopes & Co., of Bos- 
ton, and Frederick Billings, of Woodstock, ¥t. 

aUBSCRIBBKS TO TBK AMOUNT OF TWENTT COLLARS. 

John Ball, Grand Rapids, Mich. ; S. N. Bell, Manchester, 
K. H. ; L. H. Stone, Auburndale, Mas^. ; M. Brimmer, Bloke 
Brothers, and H. Hunnewell, of Boston. 

The following presented sums lesa than twenty and more 
llian ten dollars : — 

Pond & Dunklee, and W. K. Lewis & Brothers, of Boston ; 
Onslow Steams, Concord, N. H. 

SUBSCRIBERS TO THE AMODNT OF TBN DOLLARS, 

Alpheus Crosby, John Bertram, George Peabody, and 
MosQs A. Farmer, of Salem, Mass. ; Edwin SLoughton, Wind- 



APPENDIX. 859 

8or, Yt ; H. A. Ward, Bochester, N. T.; Thaddeus Fair- 
banks, Horace Fairbatikfl, Franklin Fairbanks, and W. P. 
•Fairbanks, of St. Johnsbury, Vt ; Geo. B. McCarter, Wash- 
ington, D. C. ; Charles Marsh, Woodstock, Vt. ; Arthur C. 
Page, Eastman, Ga. ; Gyles Merrill, St. Albans, Vt ; L. B. 
Ward, Providence, B. I. ; J. C. Delano, New Bedford, Mass. ; 
I. A. Lapham, Milwaukee, Wis. ; Nathaniel White, Warde, 
Humphrey, & Co., George A. Blanchard, Abbott, Downing, 
& Co., McFarland & Jenks, £. C. Eastman & Co., and the 
"Daily Monitor," of Concord, N. H.; Edward L. Wilson, 
Philadelphia ; Henry M. Mansur, I. N. Andrews, H. P. Parker 
& Co., M. H. Stimpson, Tower, Giddings, & Torrey, E. 

Whitney, Edward Austin, W and C , G. Higgin- 

son. Fields, Osgood, & Co., H. N. Clark & Co., Little, Brown, 
& Co., R. H. Stearns, Chauncey Smith, Freeland, Beard, & 
Richardson, J. W. Edmonds, S. D. Warren, John J. May, 
Whitton & Brothers, George Howe, W. Endicott, Jr., J. H. 
Lowell, William Perkins, John T. Bradlee, J. H. Pray, Son, 
& Co., and G. B. Putnam, of Boston ; Rev. S. P. Leeds, of 
Hanover, N. H. 

OTHER SUBSCltlBEKS AND FRIENDS. 

Our list shows the names of fifty-three persons, largely 
from Boston, who contributed sums less than ten dollars. To 
these should be added twenty-five other persons who signed 
themselves " Cash " on the subscription book. 

The following firms and individuals have aided us in very 
important ways, often saving us the expenditure of large sums 
of money, besides contributing supplies of various kinds : — 

Signal Service, War Department, U. S. Army. 

Boston; Lowell, and Nashua Railroad. 

Concord Railroad. 

Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad. 



360 APPENDIX. 

Ml. Washington Bailway Compuij. 

Western Union Telegraplt Company. 

California Wine Company. 

Sylvester Marsli, Littleton, N. H. 

Jamea Green, New York City. 

Hamilton A. HIU, Secretary Board of Trade, in Boston. 

Henry Edwards, Boston. 





Altiludes, SS ; at ttoant Wtuhiiig- 
ton, 31 ; obtained, 41. 

Arctic climale of Uoont Wubing- 
lon, 32. 

Approachea to Mount WastiiDglon, 
60. 

ABceaC oC Uount Wutiiogloii in 
winter, 101 ; ot November 30, 
103 i of Februiir]- 8, 1]2. 

Aiken, Waller, 71. 

Aiken, Charlce L., 14, Tl. 

Aurora, IIT, ITS, 943. 

AdaioB, Mount, 331. 

A daj's tramp amid tbe cloudi, 
870. 

Abbe, Prof, 283. 

An ice myater; of science, 359. 

Arctic and Mount Wasbington cli- 
mate compared, 305. 



Boulders on Mount Wasbington, 

73. 
Boulders on Mooailanke, 90. 
Bourne Monumenl, 16, 102, 110. 
Botany of Mount Wubington, 33, 



Brake*, B9, TS. 

Bombvdment of ke, lOT, 173, 19S. 

Burbeck, C, 919. 

Bureau of Telegrauu, 982. 

Caaualtiee on Mount WaihlngbHi, 



199,219,263,288,991. 
ClouBb, A. F., 6, 18, 23, 60, 93, 99, 

103, 108, 133, 168, 213, 916, 303. 
Cogswell, 113, 189. 
Cog-rail, 67,81. 
Coldest weatber, 177, 189, 18S. 
Corona, 172, 17B, 332, 334. 
Cnlier Ball, 31. 
Crawford, Abel, S9, 40; E. A., 39, 

40, 43, 80 1 bridle-path, 60 ) 

House, 46. 
Commerce beneHted, 16. 
CircuUn, 7, 16. 
Cbnndler, Beqjamin, 4T, 114. 
Card basket, 346. 

Difficullies, 13. 
Depot, construotioo of, 187. 
Descent, peril oos, 68. 
Door blown in, 16S. 



862 



INDEX, 



Earlj history of expeditioii, 1. 

Exploration of White Mountains, 
36. 

Engine, 68, 70, 80. 

Electrical phenomena, 151. 

Experience against expedition, 58. 

Excitements on Mount Washing- 
ton, 155. 

Exhaustion of supplies, 350. 

Early winter visits to Mount Wash- 
ington, 50. 

Funds raised, 17. 

Field, C. A., 21. 

Field, Darby, 36. 

First visit to Mount Washington, 
36. 

First ladies on Mount Washington, 
39. 

First house on Mount Washington, 
43. 

First winter visit to Mount Wash- 
ington, 61. 

Fabyan House, 45. 

Fabyan Turnpike, 61, 64. 

Frost-work, 285. 

Gates, G. W., 20. 

Geological survey, 4, 24, 27. 

Glen House, 46. 

Grant, Pres., visit to railway, 85. 

Giant's Grave, 40, 45, 60, 65. 

Gales, 93, 177, 183, 192, 200. 

Henry, Prof., 2. 

Hitchcock, C. H.,1, 4, 7, 9, II, 13, 

15, 20, 23, 27, 111, 164, 169, 196, 

219, 257, 264, 266, 270. 
Hitchcock. Col., 4, 6, 44. 
Huntington, J. H., 2,4,8, 12, 14, 

20,23, 87,113,133, 137, 147, 163, 

174, 187, 206, 252, 302. 
Holden, L. L., 112, 156, 189, 225, 

229, 236, 238. 



House creaks, 167, 184. 
Hall. Alonzo, 219. 
Hill, Rev. Pres., 28. 

Instruments used, 310. 
Ice columns, 96. 

Jackson, Dr. G. T., 29, 39. 
Jacob*s Ladder, 67, 72, 83, 107t 

150,162. 
Journal by Huntington, 163 ; by 

Kimball, 137 ; by Wilson, 169. 

KimbaU, H. A., 18, 23, 103, 136, 
169 ; almost another monument, 
108. 

Kerite wire, 9, 10, 15, . 148 ; re. 
paired, 152, 174, 187, 199. 

Kilbum, B. W., 208. 

Life on the summit, 166. 
Litigation about summit, 46. 
Laying the cable, 148. 
LitUe, William, 5, 130. 

Moosilauke, 5, 87, 136. 
Mount Cenis Railway, 75. 
Myer, General, 9, 19. 
Members of the expedition, 23. 
Maps of the White Mountains, 27. 
Model of White Mountains, by 

Pres. Hill, 2S. 
Model of White •Mountains, by C. 

H. Hitchcock, 28. 
Mount Washington, height of, 31. 
Mount Washington, origin of 

name, 38. 
Mount Washington Railway, 62 ; 

building of, 66 ; route of, 71 ; 

officers, 77. 
Mount Washington, shadow of, 

171, 176. 
Measuring the wind, 93, 174, 177, 

183, 191. 



INDEX. 



368 



Mad Mount Washington philoso- 
phers, 35L 
Marsh, Sylvester, 7, 63, 77,82, 83. 
Marshfield, 61, 106, 149, 166, 189. 

Noyes, 48. 

Notch House, 45. 

Naming of mountain peaks, 41. 

Nelson, S. A., 11, 23, 169, 257, 267, 

270. 
Nutter, Mr., 210. 

Osgood, Sheriff, 51. 

Powder House Mill Expedition, 348. 

Patents of Mr. Marsh, 77. 

Photographing, 132, 142. 

Pendulum, 177. 

Pulse by telegraph, 196. 

Photographers, 18. 

Physical character of White Moun- 

. tains, 24. 

Reports for benefit of commerce, 

282. 
Righi, Mount, Railway, 76. 
Railway, Mount Washington. (See 

Mount Washington.) 
Railway depot, 6, 14. 
Rogers, Dr., 210. 
Rare snow-flakes, 347. 
Retardation of science, 350. 

Sable, 140, 170. 

Smithsonian Institution, 2. 

Signal senn'ce, 9, 146. 

Smith, Theodore, 19, 28, 140, 149, 

168, 171, 174, 176. 
Summit House, 43. 
Spaulding, J. H., 44, 52. 
Shadow of Mount Washington, 

175, 176. 
Sanborn, J. J., 67. 
Sliding down hUl, 74, 176. 



Strickland, 46. 

Sunrises, 137, 170, 175, 178, 264. 

Scientific dispatch, 197. 

Stoves, smoking, 167. 

Storms, 301. 

Startling discovery, 347. 

Telegrapher, 19, 22 ; telegraphing, 
146 ; from Hanover, 20, 249. 

Topography of the mountains, 25. 

Tuckerman, E., 33, 3*6, 39, 42. 

Tip>top House, application for, 3 ; 
refused, 6, 44. 

Turkey, 190. 

Twin River Farm, 65. 

Tuckerman's Ravine, 124, 217, 
267. 

Tower on Mount Washington, 50. 

Tip-top House in a storm, 349. 

Thawing and freezing, 353. 

Thompson, Eben 252. 

• 

Visitors to Mount Washington, 39. 

View from Moosilauke, 40, 94. 

Views from Mount Washington 
northward and eastward, 118 ; 
oceanward, 123, 260 ; soutiiward 
and westward, 126 ; into Great 
Gulf, 119 ; up the Androscog- 
gin, 121 ; towards Winnipiseo- 
gee, 127 ; down the Ammonoo- 
sue, 127. 

White Mountain Range, 24. 
Winds, severe, 141, 165, 169, 171, 
174, 176, 178, 180, 182, 184, 191, 
. 197, 293. 294. 
Windows broken, 178, 192. 
Western Union Telegraph Co., 

154, 193. 
Waumbek Junction, 66, 71. 
White Mountain House, 45. 
Wilson, E. L., 208. 
What the world said of us, 345. 



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